Offenhauser 3x1 Build Thread
- Thread starter 1strodeo
- Start date
that's excellent! If they still look good than that's great as far as them being seated these stock type seals will always be moving along with the valves opening and close motions. So you don't need to worry about them being seated and they will work as they were designed too! 
The only type of valve seals that would stay seated are the PC type seals (Perfect Circle brand) these would require machining of the valve guides so they can be pressed on. It looks like you should be able to just clean up your head some along with the other parts and reinstall. Good luck 
you shouldn't need any sealer on the rubber O rings in any case don't use RTV the fuel will attack it. If you have to use a sealer try some of the non hardening Permatex. Good luck 
Did some more metal work to avoid gooping up the o rings, ran outta time so capped off the outer carb holes with license plate metal and diy gasket material. Taking chassis back to my guy tomorrow because 1) anticipating the tub back from blaster any day and 2) I'm leaving town Saturday morning for a week of R&R on the Florida panhandle.
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kinda funny (but not really) looking back at statements in this thread like "I hope I don't look at this thread a year from now with no progress" or "I can't do a valve job because I don't have the chassis for very long" LOL!!
Now I have the chassis back - could've kept it all along as it turns out, indoors instead of under a tarp no less - I toyed with the notion of a V8 swap but well, I've done too much to this drivetrain not to experience and hopefully enjoy the results. And I know a V8 swap would start a chain reaction of other stuff i'd need to replace, etc etc. Not to mention the drivetrain is original to this 52 year old vehicle, I just don't have the heart to hack it up. Oh and did I mention I HAVE a V8 Bronco??
But when this one is done I will have to decide which Bronco to keep. 
Anyway here is a current shot of the fuel lines somewhat mocked up. I hope to have it running this weekend, just for testing purposes and well it hasn't been run in nearly 2 years.
Now I have the chassis back - could've kept it all along as it turns out, indoors instead of under a tarp no less - I toyed with the notion of a V8 swap but well, I've done too much to this drivetrain not to experience and hopefully enjoy the results. And I know a V8 swap would start a chain reaction of other stuff i'd need to replace, etc etc. Not to mention the drivetrain is original to this 52 year old vehicle, I just don't have the heart to hack it up. Oh and did I mention I HAVE a V8 Bronco??
But when this one is done I will have to decide which Bronco to keep. Anyway here is a current shot of the fuel lines somewhat mocked up. I hope to have it running this weekend, just for testing purposes and well it hasn't been run in nearly 2 years.
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Sick!! Have you run it yet?1strodeo":1pv90zut said:kinda funny (but not really) looking back at statements in this thread like "I hope I don't look at this thread a year from now with no progress" or "I can't do a valve job because I don't have the chassis for very long" LOL!!
Now I have the chassis back - could've kept it all along as it turns out, indoors instead of under a tarp no less - I toyed with the notion of a V8 swap but well, I've done too much to this drivetrain not to experience and hopefully enjoy the results. And I know a V8 swap would start a chain reaction of other stuff i'd need to replace, etc etc. Not to mention the drivetrain is original to this 52 year old vehicle, I just don't have the heart to hack it up. Oh and did I mention I HAVE a V8 Bronco??
Anyway here is a current shot of the fuel lines somewhat mocked up. I hope to have it running this weekend, just for testing purposes and well it hasn't been run in nearly 2 years.
So i got a 66 head on my 65, how hard was it to cut the holes for the offy adapter? Did you drill or use a dremel, or something else?
To be honest I cannot remember exactly what I ended up using, probably the biggest drill bit I could find and a grinder bit to get the hole to size. Then I ground and filed the top of the log where needed until I could no longer see light between the log and adapter on the end holes. As you probably know this MUST be done with head removed due to the downward angle of the intake channels.
I'm hoping to get it running today, got a hillbilly setup for my radiator and battery, just need to wire up an ignition/starting circuit, wish me luck
I'm hoping to get it running today, got a hillbilly setup for my radiator and battery, just need to wire up an ignition/starting circuit, wish me luck
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got a hillbilly setup for my radiator and battery, just need to wire up an ignition/starting circuit, wish me luck
Nice 'test stand' . An easy ignition setup for test or road' is an HEI module, the coil and module is all you need .
A Ford solenoid between Batt and atarter and any button switch for simple starting circuit.
haev fun
Nice 'test stand' . An easy ignition setup for test or road' is an HEI module, the coil and module is all you need .
A Ford solenoid between Batt and atarter and any button switch for simple starting circuit.
haev fun
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It can B seen in the middle pic.
Also called a 4 pin - U can C it nxt to the fuel pump w/4 ele lines to it.
(C "go fast for less dot something" for the whole scheme as it may take a 'thin foil' or other coil change too, may B not).
It would replace the 'box', brain, module, alu finned metal 'box' in the DSII U have.1strodeo":3v3sxg3w said:
It can B seen in the middle pic.
Also called a 4 pin - U can C it nxt to the fuel pump w/4 ele lines to it.
(C "go fast for less dot something" for the whole scheme as it may take a 'thin foil' or other coil change too, may B not).
This what you need. It does require a full 12V via a relay.
viewtopic.php?f=86&t=79447
You also need a coil with low primary resistance.
Also need your DS11 recurved for your application. Bill
viewtopic.php?f=86&t=79447
You also need a coil with low primary resistance.
Also need your DS11 recurved for your application. Bill
nice link Bill.
Notice he has the '4 pin' or "hei" on a good heat sink.
If U wanna go this route I suggest the 'go fast link'. It is a complete post. It goes inta detail (sm points that R important).
Hope U can read my code this time.
Isn't this the vehicle frm the Nevada mill?
Notice he has the '4 pin' or "hei" on a good heat sink.
If U wanna go this route I suggest the 'go fast link'. It is a complete post. It goes inta detail (sm points that R important).
Hope U can read my code this time.
Isn't this the vehicle frm the Nevada mill?
here's a vendor and simple wiring diagram for the GM HEI ignition module as mentioned:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66944c
have fun
(HEI module needs 12V supply, a full 12V coil (low resistance /TFI ) is best but any coil should/could work if properly powered for the coil type.)
. 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66944c
have fun
(HEI module needs 12V supply, a full 12V coil (low resistance /TFI ) is best but any coil should/could work if properly powered for the coil type.)
. 
Thanks all, so what is the advantage of switching my existing DSII to the HEI module, (maybe ?) new coil and recurved distributor? And what's the cost for distributor?
I am getting better at your code Chad lol my Bronco is not from NV, it spent its first 35 years in FL then moved to OH/Michigan area for about 15 years before I bought it from a guy up near Flint, MI in Sep 2016, and shortly after joined this forum
Its original tub will soon be restored to its former glory in (probably) original color of Arcadian Blue, but ain't decided yet
I am getting better at your code Chad lol my Bronco is not from NV, it spent its first 35 years in FL then moved to OH/Michigan area for about 15 years before I bought it from a guy up near Flint, MI in Sep 2016, and shortly after joined this forum
Its original tub will soon be restored to its former glory in (probably) original color of Arcadian Blue, but ain't decided yet
The advantage is a more reliable and much cheaper module that can fire a very low ohm coil without dying. Iow, much higher spark output. No points to replace and fiddle with to set dwell angle. It also has a variable dwell, keeping spark energy up as engine rpms increase by increasing dwell as rpms move up. The module has to be mounted to a heatsink. Another advantage is that you can run a TFI coil, that's what I did.
1strodeo":1kp6o98p said:Thanks all, so what is the advantage of switching my existing DSII to the HEI module, (maybe ?) new coil and recurved distributor? And what's the cost for distributor?
I am getting better at your code Chad lol my Bronco is not from NV, it spent its first 35 years in FL then moved to OH/Michigan area for about 15 years before I bought it from a guy up near Flint, MI in Sep 2016, and shortly after joined this forum
So if you now have a working DuraSpark II system then it's already a great system compared to the old points type. So in my opine there isn't much of a need to change it except maybe doing some custom curving of the advance. Good luck
smaller ie easier to carry a spare out on the trail (miles away), possibly easier to source than the DSII box, more durable (?), usually cheeper.
I've heard the TFI (coil) has draw backs, tho. Can use others. I'll go w/HEI 4pin myself when my current bx fails. rbhom uses the chrysler orange bx w/the DSII.
"...mounted to a heatsink." & the ele contact paste - if interested, again, I suggest a full read @ 'go fast"(the details
).
I've heard the TFI (coil) has draw backs, tho. Can use others. I'll go w/HEI 4pin myself when my current bx fails. rbhom uses the chrysler orange bx w/the DSII.
"...mounted to a heatsink." & the ele contact paste - if interested, again, I suggest a full read @ 'go fast"(the details
).
