FSPP Alloy Valve Covers - updated 6-7
- Thread starter AzCoupe
- Start date
That is exactly what I was wanting.
I want to know a price and how soon your taking orders 8)
EDIT: BTW that first pic of the tan looking valve color looks like it was made using that steroscopic lithoraphy resin.
I want to know a price and how soon your taking orders 8)
EDIT: BTW that first pic of the tan looking valve color looks like it was made using that steroscopic lithoraphy resin.
Mike, i'll take mine in polished.
Hope you have the breather in the front of the cover & the pcv in the rear, with proper internal oil baffles to keep the oil out of the pcv area.
This is essential if you are using the yella-terra full roller rockers which sprays oil like a small block ford.
Put my name on the top of the list. William
Hope you have the breather in the front of the cover & the pcv in the rear, with proper internal oil baffles to keep the oil out of the pcv area.
This is essential if you are using the yella-terra full roller rockers which sprays oil like a small block ford.
Put my name on the top of the list. William
I had them set up with baffle capabilities in front and back,
so you can do it which ever way you choose.
I still don't have a firm price on the mold plates, so it's difficult to determine the price.
Plus it all depends on how many I think I can sell over the next year.
Hopefully I'll have a good idea by the time the mold plates are ready.
I'll also be able to give an estimated completion date at that time.
So hang in there, I'm working on it.
Me too. I may take pre-orders to help cash flow and to assist in
estimating the number of covers required for the first run.
But not until I have set a firm price.
I made a booboo. The pics above are not a sand casted cover. It is actually the master (some sort of poly resin), which is used for sand casting the covers.
Guess I just got excited. This is what would be used if I was only making a small run. But when making runs of 50 or more units, mold plates are usually used because they produce a superior cast. The reason they don't use plates for short runs is the high cost of producing them, which would be prohibitive. Sand cast are also used when a manufacturer is trying to hold cost down, which I could have opted for, but I insisted on a high quality piece.
The only reason a master is needed, is so they can produce one or two sand casted covers (@ $200 each). The sand casted units are machined and will be used to verify the pattern is correct, before spending several thousands of dollars on the plates. Of course, this was an option too, but I chose to do so. Better to be safe than sorry.
Once I approve the casted units, the pattern will be sent to the plate manufacturer. I can then use the casted covers for experimenting with different finishes. One of them will be fully polished and photographed, so the pics can be published in Mustangs & Fords "New Product" section, thanks to Jim Smart. 8) Not sure what I'll do with the other one, but will probably have it Hypercoated in gold or powder coated in black.
Then, it has been suggested I put one of them up for auction on E-Bay, as it may become a collectors piece some day (first run - one of a kind). Personally, I doubt it, but one never knows. It will be engraved on the inside with the production date and number (#1) and the FSPP logo. The other one I will keep for upcoming shows this summer.
I'll set up something on the website for pre-orders, with the option for making a small deposit. The first run will be 100 pieces, but I may order more if there is enough demand, and if it will help lower the end price.
As soon as my cash flow recovers, I'll start work on a matching air cleaner top with ribs. Bases are readily availalble, for 1V, 2V and 4V if I keep it round, but I may choose an oval design? 8)
A
Anonymous
Guest
AzCoupe":oihynyfi said:
I wouldn't waste your resources,
as there are plenty of air cleaner designs on the market already.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I'll take a valve cover and a air cleaner lid!
Doug
Doug
Mike, the oil baffles are ok for the guys with shaft oiling rocker arms.
However if using the yella-terra oil through design, you need to shield the oil sprayed from the pushrod edge & from the sides of the baffle. Leave only the side over the valve side of the baffle open.
Using the chrome valve cover, I moved the location of the pcv valve 3" above the valve cover using a tube into the valve cover grommet to a piece of 5/8 heater hose, then putting the pcv valve at the top end of this extension hose to keep the pcv out of direct oil spray. Without this change you could see oil on the bottom of the pcv valve. I credit Doug-mustang geezer to check for oil being sucked right into the pcv valve.
Just a thought if you want the best design. William
However if using the yella-terra oil through design, you need to shield the oil sprayed from the pushrod edge & from the sides of the baffle. Leave only the side over the valve side of the baffle open.
Using the chrome valve cover, I moved the location of the pcv valve 3" above the valve cover using a tube into the valve cover grommet to a piece of 5/8 heater hose, then putting the pcv valve at the top end of this extension hose to keep the pcv out of direct oil spray. Without this change you could see oil on the bottom of the pcv valve. I credit Doug-mustang geezer to check for oil being sucked right into the pcv valve.
Just a thought if you want the best design. William
KustomSkylark
Well-known member
any idea on a price yet?.......or did I miss it?