what should i have to run this cam?

hey everyone,
i was wondering what you guys would advise on using with this cam,
here are sum specs:
its a wade
Profile No- 140
Lobe Lift- Ex .297
In .297
Timing Ad
Open Close- 74-41
40-70
Duration @.050- 238
238
Valve Clr- .013
.013
Valve Lift- .432
.432
Lobe Sep- 106
Rocker Ratio 1.5- Solid lifter, rough idle 3000 - 6500 +


i will be running a 2v head, but what should i do to it? double valve springs and all the usual stuff? also should i get a gear drive or should i just use a twin timgin chain?
any help appreciated
thanks
brendan

Hi there,

Seems like a pretty hot cam to me. The 2v will be fine, I suggest in ported form and with big valves. Make shure you check for valve shrouding, it's more important than you might think. Check your compression ratio. Since you'll be using a pretty hot cam, you'll have to bump it up more compared to a milder grind. The best way to do it is to calculate it using a steel shim headgasket. That way, if you go too far, you can lower the compression just by swapping gaskets.
As for the engine, if it's a 200, should take the power. Balance it and use ARP hardware. Some work on the rods might be desirable.
A high performance timing chain (as the one sold by FSPP) should be good enough. Anything you can do towards balance is great. Lightweight forged pistons and a harmonic balancer will help you stabilize the assembly when spinning it over 6k.
When you are using a hot grind like that, It's important to pay attention to the details, or else you'll give up streetability, without matching parts to take advantage of the power potential a big cam will give you. For example, a poor exhaust will instantly kill any power gains.
Carburetion is really important. For the six, Im a very big fan of Webers. They seem to work very fine with hot engines.
Check it carefully, if you are not willing to go all the way, it could be more convenient to use a milder grind, that will work best with a "lesser" engine.
If your engine is a 250, then shortblock requirements increase. Anything over 5500 rpms is a little too dangerous, unless you build it properly.
Hope this info helps. Best Regards,

Martín.

thanks martin for the carb/s i was thinkin bout a 4 barrel or tripple carbs of sum sort, what do you think my aim for the compression ration should be? I have extractors already and will get a better exhaust, the engine is a 221
thanks
brendan

Brendan, are you SURE you want to run a cam that big? I don't know how far you can port out your head, but you will need to make the ports flow as much as possible in order to support the RPM's that cam will like to run in.

Ahhh, 221, lovely, my personal favorite. Triple DCOES are by far the best setup, if you can afford it. Invest in a good Weber book to choose the right size carbs, and pay as much attention as possible to the linkage. The webers should smooth down the idle a lot, therefore improving driveability. As for compression, Ford heads are somewhat limited because of the thinwall casting technique. You should try something in the 10:1, maybe 10.5:1, of course range, with the best pump gas you can get.
Please, do not forget about the pistons, they tend to crack under high rpms. Lightweight forgings with fully floating pins will be money well spent.
The 221 crank will have some trouble withstanding anything over 6k. Make 6500 rpms your absolute max, and make sure everything is perfectly balanced.
Linc, he is not that far off. He is basically using something really hot, but not wild. Considering the 2v can flow something like 175 cfms, he should be fine, if he ports the head, and use low restriction intake and exhaust configurations. Just be careful not to hog out the ports.

64xm,

I know that a 200 U.S. log engine and your 221 2V are different but I would think the rev range would be similar. I ran a Racer Brown solid lifter cam with 296 deg 500 lift. Very similar specs to what you show. I ran this on a tri-power Carter YF 10:1 compression (normally aspirated). Top loader 4-speed, 4.62 rear end gear. It was a dog until 5,000 rpm and would run to 7,500. Also ran the same induction set up with a 266 cam - so it wasn't the carburation. More compression would have helped but I was sent the wrong pistons. (How did "they" think flat tops were 11:1??) I don't think this cam would make a good daily driver. Maybe a serious weekend car only. Could be difficult with an automatic.

thanks for the help so far, are carter YF's single barrel's lik su's?
what about the balancer? i am used to playin with the holden motors and the balancers and rockers r the first things to go, the balancers have a tendancy of coming through peoples bonnets aswell as the fan
I have to do some more research and find out what parts are available here in oz but i am willing too import aswell if need be for a few things.
This car isnt going to be a daily and i am thinking of a few things for transmissions. first is a tricked up C4 second is a toploader third is a T-5 or mayb even a supra box
thanks
brendan

The Carters look rather like a Stromberg WW from the top, but in fact are a big fat one-hole downdraught.

Fords don't chuck balancers like "Brand H" does. Reason is, there's a dirty big bolt and washer there (which GM could never see the need for :roll: ). You can get the standard balancer rebuilt by ROSS balancers in Sydney or a Romac special ordered in the small size.

Forget the Toploader here. They're overpriced and hoarded. Your manual options are Cillycar and T-5; whichever is available to you as a complete kit the cheapest. I'm converting my XM to hydraulic clutch and it seems that I'll need an XP pedal hanger bracket and master cylinder.

You will pay about $1200 typically for a running set of Webers on the EARLY Stynx manifold. The later casting is a shade wider and gave rise to the furphy that triple Weber fanimolds don't fit in an early Falcon.

Anyway, you should be able to wind it off the dial with that cam and appropriate gearing. Buy a tacho and install it rotated with the shift RPM at 12 o'clock. More old-school than a shift light!

Cheers, Adam.

so how much will the balancer spin before it doesnt lik it?
so the carters are single barrel yeh?
Yeh in know toploader boxes are expensive as, what about a single rail too? shoudl be able too put up with a 6? or could u compare them too a M20 H****n box?
thanks
brendan