Cracked head. Another PITA. What should I do?

T

TucsonHooligan

Well-known member
Went by the machine shop yesterday to pick up the head off my '66 200 to do some port work to it, and was informed that its got a crack. Well, more like 3 cracks, but either way, its shot. Directly inside the intake and cracked all the way through to the central doubled exhaust port. Magnafluxed it and its pretty bad. So my question is, now that I have to get a new head, what are the recommendations, short of the obvious "Aluminum head" responses. Its a budget thing, I need a new head, but have to keep it within reason. Should I get a later model one off a 70's block for the bigger valves and larger log intake and have it milled to bring the compression back up, or try and score an original 200 head that is matched to that year? Suggestions? :unsure::
 
I'd look for a newer head that has all the benefits that come with it.. larger valves, larger intake volume, hardened seats, flat top intake log... I might even go so far as to have the 1bbl mount milled off for direct 2bbl use, even if you plan on sticking with the 1bbl, just make a plate.. That way in the future you can easily upgrade to a larger carb.

Last time I bought a used head it ran me $65 for the head, valve train, and valve cover. Then you should measure your engine and get your headgasket thickness and figure out how much to have it milled to keep a good compression ratio.

-ron
 
Thats what I was thinking, but what year is the earliest I should get? Also, is there a difference between a 200 and a 250 head in the later models? I know of a junkyard by my house with a '78 Merc that has a 6 in it. I already pulled the DSII out of it, and I could probably get the head for cheap.
 
since your not in my area lol I just found a junk yard web site that mibht help us all out a lot. I just found a 78 head that I am going to check out tomarrow. The site goes by regions www.car-part.com.
 
It seems these heads like to crack right where you described yours. I've always thought that headers are a better solution than the stock cast iron heat sink concentrating so much heat right at the siamesed exhaust ports.

When I was replacing my C9 head that was cracked in the same place I went through three candidate heads and they were all cracked to some extent on inspection. The large rebuilder I was using had the equipment and expertise to repair the one that was damaged the least. They pinned and welded the head while it was being heated in an oven of some kind.

I've got 4k miles on the engine and no trouble with the repaired head.

Now if the bottom of the engine and the tranny would quit drooling everywhere :LOL:
 
I got a '78 at a JY for $35, which included everything attached to it.
Carb, air cleaner, exhaust manifold, rockers, I even took the pushrods.
 
Me? My name isn't Steve, must have me mixed up with someone else.


Will a head off a 78 fit with no major modifications? All the bolt holes and such line up with the original ones off a '66?
 
Any head off of any 144/170/200/250 will physically bolt to both your current block and exhaust manifold. A '78 will work just fine. I do still recommend that you take a couple measurements and figure out your compression and possibly have a little extra milled off the head before installation.

1. Strip it down to bare casting
2. have it magnafluxed to ensure it's worth working with
3. have them mill it before you put it on
4. install and smile

When he said 'hi to Steve' I think he was talking to aahsac.

-ron
 
Ok, no go on the '78. The Merc it was in wasn't at the wrecking yard anymore. There were 2 1983 Mercs in its place though, both with 6's in them. Is that too late a year to use? Also, there was a '69 Falcon there with a 200, casting C9DE 6060-J. Is that a good head? Hardened valve seats? It has the round log head still and it looks like the '66. So whats my best choice here?
 
Personally unless you are trying to maintain some originallity I'd go with the newest head you can find. The only other concern is the car mounting hole/bolt spacing. You will need to make sure to get the carb spacer that comes with the newer head.

-ron
 
I pulled a head out of an '83, had it cleaned and magnafluxed. It was cracked too. Planned for this and got the warranty from the U Pull it yard, and went back to exchange it for another. Went to pull the other and decided to check the log before I went throught all the trouble. It was cracked too. F-word! Mother F'in double F-word! Anybody have a head that isn't cracked, or know a good resource to get one? Kinda leaning towards a late model square log since they have hardened seats and bigger valves as well as better intake flow. And why is it that these hairline cracks can't be welded and ground or something? Enlighten me.
 
If you get a D8 or later head they have a oblong shaped port below the carb where a EGR valve bolts to.

You can easily block this off with a Ford Cleveland fuel pump block off plate. Make your own plate or can buy one for about $8.
 
Call the biggest race shop in your area and ask who can fix cracked cast iron heads. That's what I did and I was directed to a very large rebuilder in Dallas, I was in N. Texas at the time. The supplier at the time (Bishop Core) guaranteed a rebuildable head. It was the third head that I got from them and it was cracked too but the rebuilder said they could pin and weld it. The key, besides expertise, is they have to heat the head in an oven and then weld it. I run the you know what out of my 200 and I have had no problems with the repaired head.

Some of the dirt guys still use cast iron so if you can find anyone doing engine work on the dirt track cars you might get a referral.
 
Anlushac11":24h2fqzw said:
If you get a D8 or later head they have a oblong shaped port below the carb where a EGR valve bolts to.
Click to expand...
Not on mine. EGR valve is attached to the carb spacer.
 
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