144 with Alum head?

MPGmustang

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i'm just really shooting the breeze here, but would there be ANY gain or advantage of using the ALUM head on a 144 block

just to add more convo:
bored .060 out, (total 150cc)
full roller rockers
dui
4bbl throttle body
C4 auto
248/256 112 .495
probably a 8.9 CR
 
Not the most knowledgable person to comment on this but I'm sure there would be gains. To me it would be like lipstick on a pig. Spending the money on a 200 or 250 just seemed to make more sense to me.
 
my thought or reason of asking is some random "theories" of mine..

smaller engine = less weight (reciprocating weight) = faster rev = quicker HP max = max mpg

the alum head has "ideal" swirl/velocity/distribution/flow for faster reving idealy


Again just shooting the breeze, this would probably be put on the "lightest" weight car possible for pre 66 (maybe cobra kit car lol)
 
8) while there would be gains, the 144 is rather small to take good advantage of those gains. the problem is that you would have to turn the rpms up quite high, and you would lose low end torque. if you coupled the combination with the right cam, and run a lot of boost pressure, you could certainly make some serious power, but then you lose streetability.
 
I do not think that it would be worth all the trouble. The 144 has the same dimensions as the 200 so would be close to the same weight. The biggest thing you will need to worry about is the 144 only having 4 mains. I would go with a 7 main 200 or 250 before you blow the money on the aluminum head.
 
Howdy RH and All:

Ya got my thinker goin'!-

Q- "would there be ANY gain or advantage of using the ALUM head on a 144 block?"

My thoughts. Gain? Yes, Mike's new head will be more efficient than a stock OEM log casting. Not only a more efficient combustion chamber, but better port shape and direction. A CI head would also include a new intake manifold and exhaust system, so the thought of sticking with a Holley 1904 or 1908 one barrel seems unlikely. Same is true with the exhaust. But, the real potential of the CI head is higher flow at higher rpm. With out a matching cam and compression, the CI heads potential will not be realize. The lighter weight and shorter stroke of a 144 would also lend itself to a higher rpm range then a stock cam can muster. But, shooting the breeze, a 144 with a CI head and built to the max with direct port fuel injection ala Midget sprinter-- Uuuuuu, Ahhhhhh!!!!!

Advantages- The CI head would certainly be lighter and more efficient at any engine speed. An aluminum head could safely tolerate higher CR- good for economy and efficiency.

What were your thoughts? Direction?

Adios, David
 
Keep in mind that the 144 had the 4 main block so you are going to be limited on top end even with a aluminum head and bullet proof reciprocating assembly 5000-5500rpm is tops. Even on my built up 200 with forged internals Im looking at a 5800-6000rpm redline with hydraulic cam.

I think you could use the Aluminum head as the stock aluminum head with the stock intake and a small 2bl would still be a improvement over the log head. It may lose a little bit of low end grunt but you can compensate by bumping the rear gears up a little. 3.27:1's or 3.55:1's would be a great upgrade.



IMHO...

My daily driver is a 2.3L (140 cubic inch) OHC 4 cylinder making about 90 rwhp on a good day. The car has a T5 and 3.73:1 open rear end. The car is well geared and is pretty peppy til about 40mph when it runs out of power.

A properly built 144 (similar displacement to mine but two extra cylinders for better torque) making 150 to 175hp (more power than my car) in a lighter Falcon or Mustang with upgraded suspension and brakes would be a very fun to drive car if geared properly.

It wont be a 10 second street beast but it will put a smile on your face every time you go down a on ramp or drive down a twisty road and you will definetely break out into a honest grin when you go to accelerate out of a corner and you can feel that very low rpm grunt the inline six has as it pushes the car forward.
 
For our daily drivers and street machines, I don't really think that only 4 main bearings is that big of a deal. Case in point; look how many Flat head V8's are in street rods and they only have 3 main bearings. Yeah, they are not all out drag racers, but like I said, "For our daily drivers and street rods,I don't really think that only 4 main bearings is that big of a deal." If you don't want to find and buy a 170 or 200, build what you've got. After all, you already have everything to make it work before you decided to mod it, if you were already driving it. It's your car, so I say, "Do what pleases you." I have a 170 and I'm going to build it with a C4 shorty and a narrowed 8" rear for a trike. Mostly because I have it, and won't have to find another 200, and I think the 250 would make it too big. My $ .02 worth.
 
There was a member who had a 144 and a factory OZ head on it and he was playin with it on the Mile speed runs down south IIRC.If you want to run the Aluminum head on the small motor go for it! With the right cam and gears etc. should be fun on the street.
 
hmm, this really had me thinking,
change CR to 8.3 or 8.0
add a SuperCharger to it
retroteck 4bbl throttle body

the HP would increase but the torque would be limited due to the short stroke.

I guess that's why ppl go for the 250 in the end. I'll do this 144 when I'm randomly ridiculously rich.
 
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