Starting a rebuild

Beaus67

Beaus67

Active member
Hello, first let me thank all of those who have posted so much great information on this forum. I have been outside looking in for years and have never found a better source for general and specific information on the Ford six cylinder engines or Mustangs for that matter. A little background, I bought a 67 Mustang about 4 years ago as a project car for my son and I (he was 14 at the time and knew it would be his first car). It has been a great way for us to stay well connected through what can be difficult years in a father-son relationship. We have done many projects on the car, brakes, window regulators, interior, etc. all the normal things you do to ready a car to be a daily driver. At 16 he started driving it and never looked back. I have offered to sell it for him and get him a late model Mustang (05) as he starts collage (Oregon State) on the 18th. His response was “why would I do that? I already own a “real Mustang”” (he’s a bit of a first generation snob). So he’s going to collage without his car while I rebuild the 200 six. So now to my question/advice request, this rebuild is meant to be an upgrade rebuild but no ozzy /aluminum head / fuel injection stuff just a good solid driver with a little additional HP and reliability. My plan is as follows;

Block cleaned - magnafluxed, bored/honed .030 over (were calling it a Boss 203)
Stock crank - cleaned and polished
Stock cam - (new)
New pistons - rods cleaned and polished
Cylinder head - Cleaned, magnafluxed, three angle valve job, hardened valve seats, Modified intake log to accept the 2v 32/36 Weber DGV
Ignition - DUI
Exhaust – Dual outlet headers, single exhaust through a Flowmaster muffler
Transmission- C4 auto (pro rebuilt with a mild shift kit 3 years ago)

I am not new to engine or machine work but am by no way an expert, I do have a friend who’s a retired Ford shop man so I have help available if I get in trouble I’m just trying to get started correctly, so feel free to critique my plan I would appreciate any and all advice. One last thing, we did give a V8 swap some thought but my son likes/prefers the six cylinder (gas is expensive). :thanks:
 
Sounds like a good plan. Have you considered a mild cam? Port and polish a little on the head? The later model heads have a larger intake volume and intake valves, 77-80, flow more cfm. They can still be found but start looking way before you need it.
 
Only a couple things I would change about your build plan would be: adding a mild cam as opposed to the stock one. Very little cost upgrade for a noticeable difference.

Other thing would be to use the Duraspark II ignition, as opposed to the DUI. Much cheaper, all stock parts (though from the late 70s) and still a fantastic system.
 
mysavioreigns":30qljuop said:
Only a couple things I would change about your build plan would be: adding a mild cam as opposed to the stock one. Very little cost upgrade for a noticeable difference.

Other thing would be to use the Duraspark II ignition, as opposed to the DUI. Much cheaper, all stock parts (though from the late 70s) and still a fantastic system.
Click to expand...

a comp 260 would be a good cam for this combo. you are not going to gain much with the header and carb with a stock cam.

I agree with this. if he is going to have it at school stock parts are easier to replace if there is a problem.
 
Try to get valve pockets ported.
It's an easy machining job that pays off good dividends for what it might cost.
Head shaved for a 9:1 compression ratio.
Advance the cam with an adjustable timing set, perhaps. I just used a stock gear set offset one tooth for 2°.
 
Have the machine shop knife edge the crank and look in to installing a windage tray. this should be good for a 5HP increase and doesn't cost any gas.

Get the rotaiting assembly Ballenced. No power gain but the engine should be smoth as silk.

Also get the head CC to ballence the combustion chaimbers.
 
HOwdy Beau and CO.

Welcome to The Forum and Congrats on your project. It sounds like a good one. What is the rearend gear ratio? A couple of things that I'd consider adding are a set of CI double roller timing chaing and gear set. And while I was at that, I'd upgrade the cam to a mild hydraulic grind- as already suggested. You'll be half way there when you replace the cam bearings and timing set. These two items will not negatively effect you goal of durability, reliability and economy and will add to the grins per mile. I'd also spring for a complete balance; both static and dynamic balance.

I'm partial to the wide base two barrel carbs, but many here like the H/W two stage two barrels. The difference is cost and ease of tuning. Autolite 2100s and Holley 2300s are my choice.

All in all, you've got the basics. Welcome and enjoy.

Adios, David
 
Wow, I didn’t expect responses to come that quickly. Thank you all for the input. The friend I mentioned also suggested what he called a “street cam” which I assume is the same as a mild cam, so I think I’ll go that direction but now what cam? I read “Is this cam worth it” by 81_cougar, would the comp cam 260H be about right? Or would anyone have a better choice to look at. I bounced back and forth between the DUI and Duraspark II ignition and only went with the DUI because it looked like the most trouble free setup, but now I’ll have to revisit that and with a little more research because I really like the port and polish idea so if I can save some money on the DUI why not. I also like the idea of balancing the rotating assembly; I’m planning on taking this thread with me when I talk with the machinist (also a friend) so I don’t forget any of the suggestions made here. Maybe I’m making more of it than there is but the late model head idea makes me a little nervous, larger ignition chamber-less compression, now I have to figure out how much to shave to get things right. I’m a “keep it simple stupid” kind of a guy plus I’m not looking for big HP just a solid I-6. As tired as this engine is, I doubt it is generating 50HP right now so if I get close to Fords advertised 120HP I’m happy. The car has a standard 2.83 axle ratio, build in San Jose as a T code and shipped to Los Angles with candy apple red paint (still red but not original). Came off the assembly line on January 14 1967 (two days ahead of schedule) at least that’s what the Marti report says. Again thanks for all the input, once I get started I’ll post some updates and photos and I’m sure I’ll have more questions.
Bill

BeauMustang.jpg

One of my favorite people, and his car

engine2.jpg

Clean but weak (we did a lot of work making it pretty)

interior3.jpg

Just to show off the interior a little ;-)
 
Your Mustang looks great, that is one clean engine compartment.
 
hello this a very nice and clean mustang i like the interior,,,,
the red color is beautiful,,,,

greetzzz,,,,,JD,,, (y)
 
Howdy back Bill:

Very nice. Inside and out. THe good news is that your engine doesn't appear to be a Calif/emissions engine. The head is a good rebuild core. However, you will likely need to do some milling or decking to regain stock 9:1 compression ratio due to the differences in head gasket thicknesses, regardless of which head you decide to go with. The advantages of the later head are induction hardened valve seats, a larger volume induction tract, a 1.75" carb hole and larger intake valves. Yes, the combustion chambers are larger, but between decking the top of the block and trueing the head by milling, you'll be able to regain lost compression easily. Decking the top of the block and milling are typically standard procedure in rebuilding an older engine to true up the mating surfaces. Decking the block is also a good way to improve the quench effect in the combustion process.

You may want to consider upgrading the rearend ratio to a 3.00:1 or possibly a 3.20:1. Either will really wake up the performance feel of your car, and you won't notice a big drop in MPG. Cruise on the freeways at 65 mph rather than 75 and you won't hurt a thing.

Just some more thoughts. I hope that they are helpful. I know how exciting a new build project is. Enjoy.


Adios, David
 
Thanks for all the suggestions; I just received a copy of the Ford Falcon Six Cylinder Performance Handbook yesterday. Based on what I’ve read so far I’m about 30 days from starting this rebuild because I have a lot of reading and research to do, I’m only going to get one shot at this so I definitely want to feel like I’ve covered all the options for what we’re trying to achieve.
This is how things are stacking up right now (subject to change);

Block cleaned - magnafluxed, bored/honed .030 over
Stock crank - cleaned and polished
Cam – Comp Cams 260H
Dual Roller Timing Chain Set
New pistons - rods cleaned and polished
Balance the rotating assembly
APR head and rod bolts
Cylinder head - Cleaned, magnafluxed, three angle valve job, hardened valve seats, port and polish, modified intake log to accept the 2v 32/36 Weber DGV
Ignition - Duraspark II
Exhaust – Dual outlet headers, single exhaust through a Flowmaster muffler

I’m going to discuss a late model head with my machinist taking the handbook with me; if he feels confident then I may then begin trying to track one down. I have 3 good auto wrecking yards within 30 minutes of my location so if they can find one I’ll have a decision to make :unsure: , if they can’t, well then decision made.
Again, thanks for all your help
Bill

Car2.jpg

one last picture :D
 
Block cleaned - magnafluxed, bored/honed .030 over
Stock crank - cleaned and polished
Cam – Comp Cams 260H
Dual Roller Timing Chain Set
New pistons - rods cleaned and polished
Balance the rotating assembly
APR head and rod bolts
Cylinder head - Cleaned, magnafluxed, three angle valve job, hardened valve seats, port and polish, modified intake log to accept the 2v 32/36 Weber DGV
Ignition - Duraspark II
Exhaust – Dual outlet headers, single exhaust through a Flowmaster muffler

I’m going to discuss a late model head
*************************
Yeeehaw! (That's Y we like pic)!
But - no valve train upgrade?
1.6:1 & adjustable rockers?
*************
Enjoy, Keep us informed as U proceed :nod:
 
Beaus67":264y03ey said:
Cam – Comp Cams 260H
Click to expand...

Cam selection depends heavily on what type of driving you will be doing. For stop light to stop light I would consider a torquer or towing cam. It will give you better low rpm torque for a quicker start.

Changing the rear end ratio is also a good idea, a 300 or 320 would be good.
 
Well after a ton of research and discussion I decided the “large head” was the way to go and prepared myself for a long search. Sat down at the phone on Wednesday and started calling wrecking yards, the third yard I called had one (D7BE-AB) off of a Fairmont with a 200. Very exciting, I just hope it doesn’t have a problem that makes it a boat anchor because I paid $75 + shipping without rockers (they wouldn’t negotiate). I received it today.

HeadTop.jpg

maybe no rockers is a sign?
HeadBottom.jpg

let the fun begin!
 
:unsure: you might have a good score with new exhaust valves and from pic's looks to be in real good shape (y)
 
(y) great call on the larger log'd head... very nice score

with as much detail you have into the car, I'm sure the benefit of rebuilding/beef'n up the engine will give a very fun and dependable car.
 
That is a good deal in my book. I would have pulled it myself at that price.
 
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