dapetruz
New member
Hello Fellow Ford Six Enthusiasts. I was pointed to this forum from another forum as a place I might be able to get some direction!
I have a 1963 Ford Falcon (pretty sure its the original 170) Definitely need this confirmed though because i'm sure some tips you guys will offer will change regarding this.
So here's my dilemma...
Car was running completely fine and operational.
I wanted to replace my worn heavily cracked exhaust manifold. Believe it or not, I got all the bolts out but two. Two broke inside the head. So I proceeded to remove the head. Upon removing the head, I noticed the head bolts were extremely loose, definitely not to the specified torque recommendations. Once the head was removed I removed both of the exhaust bolts. Drilled/tapped. While the head was off I noticed a huge amount carbon built up on the valves, so I removed the rocker assy and the valves and cleaned them with a brass wire brush wheel. Upon removing the valves, I kept them all in order using a piece of cardboard labeled with position as well as the pushrods. With the head bare, I used a parts cleaner and thoroughly cleaned and dried the head. I re-installed the valves in order as well as lapped them. Upon re-installing the head, I opted to use ARP head studs, instead of the old head bolts. Used a felpro gasket coated with copper sealer on both sides(I hear mixed reviews about this from everyone) I torqued the studs to the specified spec according to the paper that came with them.(purchased off classic inlines) Snug the stud, back it off half a turn then torque the head stud nut. I torqued the rockery assy according to the spec in my shop manual. I did not make any valve adjustments at this point. Re-installed carb and remaining hardware. I've been told I had hydraulic lifters, and I shouldn't need to adjust the valves from one guy, next guy tells me I have to adjust. Ok...so the car fires up, idles better than it ever has nice and smooth etc.....I drive it down the road under a load I notice two problems immediately, I hit a huge dead spot in the throttle, for instance if I want to just cruise at 45mph when I reach 45mp I try to keep my foot/throttle at 45 the car breaks up really really bad almost as if someone is pulling out fuel or spark, but if I accelerate it goes away. Also I notice my transmission doesn't want to shift into 2/3 without letting off the gas(this may be unrelated but figured I throw this out.) So I had my neighbor stop by who was an old ford mechanic, and adjust the valves at .16 the problem still exists. I bought a vacuum gauge, I get great vacuum going to the transmission modulator, and right out of the manifold. I'm still thinking a valve problem at this point, but wanted to get your guys thoughts. Also, because I wanted to...I bought a new carb from Mikescarbparts and replaced my carb. Both my old carb and new carb act the same. So what are you guys thoughts?
I have a 1963 Ford Falcon (pretty sure its the original 170) Definitely need this confirmed though because i'm sure some tips you guys will offer will change regarding this.
So here's my dilemma...
Car was running completely fine and operational.
I wanted to replace my worn heavily cracked exhaust manifold. Believe it or not, I got all the bolts out but two. Two broke inside the head. So I proceeded to remove the head. Upon removing the head, I noticed the head bolts were extremely loose, definitely not to the specified torque recommendations. Once the head was removed I removed both of the exhaust bolts. Drilled/tapped. While the head was off I noticed a huge amount carbon built up on the valves, so I removed the rocker assy and the valves and cleaned them with a brass wire brush wheel. Upon removing the valves, I kept them all in order using a piece of cardboard labeled with position as well as the pushrods. With the head bare, I used a parts cleaner and thoroughly cleaned and dried the head. I re-installed the valves in order as well as lapped them. Upon re-installing the head, I opted to use ARP head studs, instead of the old head bolts. Used a felpro gasket coated with copper sealer on both sides(I hear mixed reviews about this from everyone) I torqued the studs to the specified spec according to the paper that came with them.(purchased off classic inlines) Snug the stud, back it off half a turn then torque the head stud nut. I torqued the rockery assy according to the spec in my shop manual. I did not make any valve adjustments at this point. Re-installed carb and remaining hardware. I've been told I had hydraulic lifters, and I shouldn't need to adjust the valves from one guy, next guy tells me I have to adjust. Ok...so the car fires up, idles better than it ever has nice and smooth etc.....I drive it down the road under a load I notice two problems immediately, I hit a huge dead spot in the throttle, for instance if I want to just cruise at 45mph when I reach 45mp I try to keep my foot/throttle at 45 the car breaks up really really bad almost as if someone is pulling out fuel or spark, but if I accelerate it goes away. Also I notice my transmission doesn't want to shift into 2/3 without letting off the gas(this may be unrelated but figured I throw this out.) So I had my neighbor stop by who was an old ford mechanic, and adjust the valves at .16 the problem still exists. I bought a vacuum gauge, I get great vacuum going to the transmission modulator, and right out of the manifold. I'm still thinking a valve problem at this point, but wanted to get your guys thoughts. Also, because I wanted to...I bought a new carb from Mikescarbparts and replaced my carb. Both my old carb and new carb act the same. So what are you guys thoughts?