like a dope,dont ask me why...i messed with the floats of my weber 34 ichs..but after many times adjusting them to weber spec.they where flooding out.readjusted them,adjusted the carbs,etc.took off down the street running great...hit 50 mph acted like it needed fuel, could it be i have to raise the floats, has anyone adjusted the 34ich floats..did just what weber said to do..6.5mm from the top of gasket to top off float,could i be missing something
fuel starved
- Thread starter mluck
- Start date
Pressure regulator as close to the carb as you can, short pipe to the main supply lines. 3 psi tops needs to be confirmed.
See viewtopic.php?f=1&t=73007,
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72455
and check again the advice. They have weighed in on your former electric fuel pump posts. If your electric fuel pump is not limited for flow, pressure can be controlled easily.
ICH'S or ICT's, this is an old Land Rover/Vauxhall/Bedford commerical vehicle carb, its designed for a low supply fuel pump which doesn't make more than 80 hp. All the old Solex and Zenith 1-bbl carbs were like it, typical Euro trash which isn't like the good old Carters, Autolites, Holley's et al. Its redemption is its ease of fitment, calibration and there are lots of parts around for it.
My old 77.9 hp 138 cubic inch I6 Vauxhall ran really well once the fuel pressure was wound down, same type of carb. Same, typical US in line verses European crap carb issue.
On a triple 1-bbl carb instillation, the stock US Ford pump is never blead down as much as it is on a single 1bbl, so you just have to knock the pressure down.
If that doesn't sort it, its likely a blocked idle jet.
Then reset float level this way
http://www.webercarburetors.com/ppw/htm ... akdown.htm
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/v/vspfil ... evel_3.pdf
http://landroveraddict.com/forums/threa ... adID=22397
"Take the top off the carb and hold on its side so that the float hangs down vertically and the tang just touches the float needle valve. The distance between the top of the float and the gasket face of the carb top should be about 7mm (6-6.5 with gasket). If it isn't, bend the tab to get the right measurement. ......When it says 'just touches' - it means touching the metal ball but not pushing it in. "
Clean it out with the right kind of cleaner.
Check for vac leaks with unlit propane torch for idle rise.
See viewtopic.php?f=1&t=73007,
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72455
and check again the advice. They have weighed in on your former electric fuel pump posts. If your electric fuel pump is not limited for flow, pressure can be controlled easily.
ICH'S or ICT's, this is an old Land Rover/Vauxhall/Bedford commerical vehicle carb, its designed for a low supply fuel pump which doesn't make more than 80 hp. All the old Solex and Zenith 1-bbl carbs were like it, typical Euro trash which isn't like the good old Carters, Autolites, Holley's et al. Its redemption is its ease of fitment, calibration and there are lots of parts around for it.
My old 77.9 hp 138 cubic inch I6 Vauxhall ran really well once the fuel pressure was wound down, same type of carb. Same, typical US in line verses European crap carb issue.
On a triple 1-bbl carb instillation, the stock US Ford pump is never blead down as much as it is on a single 1bbl, so you just have to knock the pressure down.
If that doesn't sort it, its likely a blocked idle jet.
Then reset float level this way
http://www.webercarburetors.com/ppw/htm ... akdown.htm
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/v/vspfil ... evel_3.pdf
http://landroveraddict.com/forums/threa ... adID=22397
"Take the top off the carb and hold on its side so that the float hangs down vertically and the tang just touches the float needle valve. The distance between the top of the float and the gasket face of the carb top should be about 7mm (6-6.5 with gasket). If it isn't, bend the tab to get the right measurement. ......When it says 'just touches' - it means touching the metal ball but not pushing it in. "
Clean it out with the right kind of cleaner.
Check for vac leaks with unlit propane torch for idle rise.