Can I borrow a block plate from someone?

gus91326

Well-known member
Supporter 2018
All:

I picked up a 81 200 that I am rebuilding with a CI AL head. I'm going to modify a 302 bell to fit, but just realized that I need the blockplate to transfer the top holes on the bell. Anybody have one I can borrow? I'll pay for the use of it along with shipping both ways.

I guess I can make a template off the back of block, but was looking to see if someone had one laying around I could use. Thanks!

Gus
 
that one is kind of a tough one to find. i have one, but it is in use at the moment in my fairmont.
 
I figured it would be a long shot. I've been thinking of other ways to make it happen. I appreciate the response nonetheless!
 
:unsure: if your going to do the mod to use a 302 bell housing why not just use a 302 V8 block plate too? (y)
 
Bubba:

I will be using the 302 blockplate. The 200 is needed because there are two bolt holes that need to be machined on the 302 bell that you can use the 200 blockplate to use an an accurate template.
 
Gus, I do under stand those differences in some of the late 200 blocks two top bell housing hole position compared to the V8 SBF Bells and they will need to be located. You can do that in a number of ways if you don't have that late 200 plate. Use the blocks holes to get your mounting position on the 302 block plate by putting some machinists Blue Dycum, a small amount of white grease or other substance on the bolt bosses of two top then mount the 302 plate and press it against those two holes to transfer thier hole positions. That should be accurate enough to locate them since you have the other 4 holes along with the alignment dowls which are used to accurately position the bell to the block. Or as "rbohm" said you could also make a cardboard template by using a ball peen hammer so you can transfer the bolt boss position to the light weight cardboard or poster board. Good luck :nod:
 
some here (CNC Dude?) have developed computer generated 'outlines" of different bells too,
I hoped they'd have shown up by now, but no…
any 1 remember if this model was done or who accomplished such a feat?
 
chad":285xys3m said:
some here (CNC Dude?) have developed computer generated 'outlines" of different bells too,
I hoped they'd have shown up by now, but no…
any 1 remember if this model was done or who accomplished such a feat?
The problem is that the Original Poster appears to be looking for a "Big Bell" block spacer plate, which is 2/3rds of a SBF. The drawings that CNCdude did for me a while back are based off the Small i6 pattern (144/170/200)

And the fruits of that endeavor was an adapter that fits between the small six (C4/8.5" clutch) bellhousing and a SBF transmission.


SBF/C4 adapter plate on bottom, small i6/SBF adapter in middle, small i6/C4 adapter plate on top


unstacked


If I had the one he needs, I'd have offered to send it.
-ron
 
Does anyone have a part number or casting number to identify the bellhousing that would work for this mod? I am trying to find a bellhousing to mount to a 1981 200 ci inline 6 and to use a T5 transmission. I have read articles on it, but can't find a bellhousing to buy that I am confident will work.
Thanks
 
LMinton66":2asy9wnl said:
Does anyone have a part number or casting number to identify the bellhousing that would work for this mod? I am trying to find a bellhousing to mount to a 1981 200 ci inline 6 and to use a T5 transmission. I have read articles on it, but can't find a bellhousing to buy that I am confident will work.
Thanks

while there is a bell housing that would work, they are somewhat rare. they mount the T4 transmission. but you can modify a 5.0 T5 bell housing to fit the low starter mount block.
 
gus91326":2ya1i0or said:
Bubba:

I will be using the 302 blockplate. The 200 is needed because there are two bolt holes that need to be machined on the 302 bell that you can use the 200 blockplate to use an an accurate template.

These posts and discussions sometimes stimulate long forgotten memories. And in this case it's some Algebra or Geometry and a few methods from doing sheet metel layout work so here's one more way Gus. You can go really old school and use a compass (dividers) to get an accurate measurement too. If you can't find one to use you could even make a set out of wood use a bolt to hold two prices of lattice together drive a nail straight into the bottom of one for a point mount another one or a pencil on the outer one. Put the point on the center of the blocks alignment dowel use the other to find and intersect the center of the blocks top bolt holes and then lock the (thumb screw of the dividers) or the hinge bolt snug. This will be your arc for one measurement off of each of the dowels they should be the same on each side. Next use the compass point on the centerline of the crankshafts flange to the center of the top bolt holes again this is your second arc and both should intersect to locate the exact center of each of those two bolt holes. Then measure the distance of the two bolt holes across from each other (center to center) if everything was done right this will also intersect at the same two bolt holes centerline points.

I almost was able to pickup one of those late 200 blocks in this area about a year ago but missed out, still hope To find one for my drag car project. I think this V8 bell housing swap could be done even easier after locating those the 200's two top block hole positions onto the SBF V8 block plate then why not just bolt the block plate straight to the block with regular bolts or countersunk cap screws. Then just put two bolts threw the top holes of the V8 bell (or weld a nut to the back side of block plate) and tigten them up there and wouldn't even be a need to drill the extra holes into the V8 bell. This should work out fine as an example the Brand X V8's used to have only one top bolt when they were first designed then somtime in the mid 1970's they even elemenated that top bolt using only the four bolts, two alignment dowels, and gravity too handle it. Was probably at the urging of some Bean Counters to save a few Cents per unit, yet I don't know of any problems that it ever caused them since. Good luck :nod:
 
bubbs - one of the few times my house building skills intersect (get it?)
ur automotive skills…

…….…Swing! that arc!…………..
(1 inch to 20, 50 feet "& beyond"!)
 
hey bubba -

just found a $175.00, 250ci, man., 157T, zero balance FW ('69 stang) shipped 2 my door.
Must be the best option! (can THIS 1 go wrong too?)

Like OP gus91326, Block Plate's next .
 
(y) Yes that should workout great with your car type 6 bolt (like a 302) bell housings on your 250. Now for the block plate look for a manual trans version it's one piece (doesn't have a removeable lower inspection cover) that's a 6 bolt plate from a SBF V8 (mid 65 up 289, 302's, 351 W & C's). As well as off a 250 six but I think they are quite rare in a manual trans versions. Good luck Chad :nod:
 
That's a great looking flywheel you might try contacting them to see if they will custom drill and machine a blank so it fits and bolts on to your 200 crank. Back in the day McCloud would custom machine flywheels and build clutches to custom specs too. Good luck :nod:
 
will u mod the alu head any Gus?

Bubs - Can't i use the AT block plate - i got a C4 I'll rebuild later ( or could I just cut the bottom off the manual to use w/the C4 later)?
 
:unsure: Sure Chad you could use a C4 block plate (both an Auto or Manual plate will fit the same way on the back of the block) and if you don't mind figuring out a way to seal that inspection hole. :shock: Otherwise its going to let a lot of dirt and dust inside the bell housing, clutch unit, Throwout bearing, etc. This is probably not a big deal with only street use, but not the best for off road use. Good luck :nod:
 
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