250 oil pan mods

Pick tube should stay away from min bend radii. Min bend radius is the center line of the bend is equal to the tube dia. It causes pressure drops to many of these bends befor oil goes through the pump can cause the oil to become foamy.

GOT IN A BIG ARGUMENT WITH A SUPPLIER when I was redesigning the oil pan and pickup for the 2.5 ranger engine (a stroked 2.3 pinto motor). The supplier stated they were only set up for min radii. I eliminated all min radius bends which drastically inproved oiling issues inherent with the 2.3 version the oil pan also saved Ford millions of dollars

I "merged" the front sump 250 pan with the double sump 3.3 l pan that came in my fox. I added two outriggers to each side of the rear sump, and effectively T'd the pan. To aid in oil control, and to allow those outriggers to increase the oil capacity, I just drilled a 2" hole in the side of the pan before welding the thing together.



It looks goofy as hell,...but it doesn't leak. I now have 7 qts of oil in this pan.



Since I have a rear sump, the dipstick is re-located into the top of one of those outriggers.



All I can add is bolt that pan completely down to a spare block, or flat surface before you do any cutting/welding. The pan itself is formed and the simple cutting of the thing allows it to move, Then adding back the heat distortion will surely give you grief when it comes time to bolt the pan up to your engine if you didn't.

what's the 2nd sump or deep pocket on the other end?

"...bolt that pan completely down to a spare block, or flat surface before you do any cutting/welding…."
Oh Yeah!
a spare engine block (or something w/that pattern of bolt-up) is the best!
Aint happenin otherwise. Even w/ stitch weld or use of the brazing process instead.