'81 200 Mild Daily Build

Hello all,

I've got a '81 Fairmont wagon with a 200, C4, and 2.73's. Most of my driving is 50-60mph backroads so I'd like to keep the 2.73's for now.

I've noticed the car tends to fall flat on it's face after 3500rpm's. I looked up the cam specs and the stock cam is tiny, no wonder!

I want something with good low-end torque and economy with a small bump in power and rpm's.

Right now I'm looking at Comp Cam's 252H or a Howards 280108-12.

In the future I'm planning on having a DUI distributor, 6-1 headers, and a 2 barrel conversion with a 2100/2150, so something flexible would be best.

Thank you for your time!

understand that building a car is a systems approach. yes you can build an engine, but if the rear gears are too long, you cant take advantage of the bigger cam or better head. my plan is to use a comp cams 260h high energy cam in my falcon, along with a set of 3.55 gears to get off the line.

as for ignition i plan on using a duraspark distributor hooked to a chrysler ignition box and a blaster lll coil.that combination worked real nice in my 66 falcon.

i will probably also go with two 32/36 webers or a similar carter weber carb properly spaced out across the intake log for the best fuel mixture distribution i can get.

i am going to run a stock later model exhaust manifold and dual exhaust.

Howdy aPanzerIV:

And welcome to The Forum. Great car and project.

The cams you are looking at are perfect for you goals. Either will help your engine deal with the highway gearing.

New cam or not, IIWIYS I'd stick with your stock DuraSpark II ignition, but get it recurved to you specifications. IF you want an even hotter spark look at the MSD Blaster coil. Set the initial advance at 5 degrees more than stock specs call for.

FYI- The Holley #1946 carb is a very complex carb integrated with vacuum and thermal switches that limit its tuneability. It will be interesting to see how it handles your proposed cam change.

I'll be interested to hear what you decide and how the change works out for you. Good Luck and again, Welcome.

Adios, David

Sounds like a good plan for your Fairmount I really like station wagons they are seldom seen on the road anymore. Definitely get a copy of the Falcon Performance Handbook it provides lots of details for getting good performance from your 200 like 3 angle valve and back cutting valves all reasonable cost but good benefits - all covered in the Handbook. Also start collecting used parts now like the 2100 and air cleaner as they are getting a little harder to find. Good luck and remember to ask lots of questions as the guys on this forum are very knowledgeable.

aPanzerIV":125w19df said:

Hello all,

I've got a '81 Fairmont wagon with a 200, C4, and 2.73's. Most of my driving is 50-60mph backroads so I'd like to keep the 2.73's for now.

I've noticed the car tends to fall flat on it's face after 3500rpm's. I looked up the cam specs and the stock cam is tiny, no wonder!

I want something with good low-end torque and economy with a small bump in power and rpm's.

Right now I'm looking at Comp Cam's 252H or a Howards 280108-12.

In the future I'm planning on having a DUI distributor, 6-1 headers, and a 2 barrel conversion with a 2100/2150, so something flexible would be best.

Thank you for your time!

Click to expand...

Its not cam timing, its lift, peak air flow, and the lack of adequate time for the 1-bbl carb to feed the six loaded bases of the stock 3.3 from 3500 to about 5300 rpm, where it actually tops out.

You need a little more compression, more carburation, more valve lift, and more intake flow. You could get by with the stock intake flow if you ran triple carbs. You could effectively gain what would feel like 1.3 liters or 68 cubic inches by adding a floor change manual gearbox.

Everthing listed below.....


The issue with all 3.3's in a 3400 pound wagon is that its carrying a lot of weight, an auto that is just like loosing 21 hp off the 1981 factory rating of 91 hp.

An auto is like taking and 3.3/200 engine, and winding off 1.3 liters, making it like a 2.0 72 hp Ranger engine.

The 1979 and later 1983 2.8 2-BBL V6 made 18 to 23 hp more than the 3.3 (109 and then 114 hp), easily enough to bring back the power balance in favour of a proper 3.3.

In Australia that, year, a 3.3 liter engine made 114 hp, the cam was the same duration as the US 3.3, the carb a 1-bbl and it had a more restrictive exhaust.

The Aussie 3.3 made more power by extra cam lift via 1.73:1 rockers and 145 cfm of intake flow at 435 thou vlave lift in the head, and a detonation reistant 9.15:1 compression head on 97 octane gas.


The V6 made the extra power via 276 degree cam duration and a V8 spec 1.14 " 2-BBL carburator. Its heads flowed 110 cfm at 400 thou lift. It did that with less than a 8.7:1 compression ratio, 87 octane gas.

Emission control only required a lower compression ratio to meet the 50000 mile durablity test, and avoid breaking the cast iron con rods.

So how do you close the difference between the 109 and 114 hp engines verses the US 3.3, and make more torque?


1. Move to a T5 manual or SROD 4 speed gearbox with a 0.81:1 top gear and your exiting 2.73 axle.

That gives you an extra 18-23 more flywheel horspower, and the dyno reading goes up from the 56 RWHP most C4 autos made, to the 72 hp the 1981 Manual cars made.


Stormin'Normans car is an example.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72938&p=592202#p592202
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=71746&p=585486#p585486

2. Do the Falcon Six Performance Handbook modifications to improve peak and avergae head flow CFM. Its about 125 cfm at 400 thou at the moment on a 28"Hg pressure drop. The FSPHB mods of vlave back cutting and 3 angle vlave grinding and finding some aftermarket 1.6:1 rockers will raise that to 145 cfm at just 400 thou pretty smartly.


3. Cam just needs more lift, not a lot more duration, especially if your cars gonna remain automatic. About 264 at lash for a hydraulic cam is about all you want to add.

JackFish's Station Wagon is an example of how great a 264 Degree Clay Smith cam can be on a 1-bbl 3.3 Fox engine.

viewtopic.php?t=65908




The 252 and Howards cams are 264 Clay Smith work-a-likes.

4. Compression can be booted almost half a point from the 8.4:1 stock ratio,

up to 8.7:1 with 87 Octane
or 9.1:1 with 91,
or 9.3:1 with 93,
or 9.8:1 with 98.

If you manage detonation by a recurved DS11 or TFI ignition with the 1986 Ford Piezo electric knock sensor , and you don't polish the intake runners on incomming bowl, you can go up another 0.3 on the 8.7:1 base, which is at each step, another 0.6:1 extra

up to 9.0:1 87 octane
or 9.4:1 with 91,
or 9.6:1 with 93,
or 10.1:1 with 98.

If you add the Clay Smith 264 cam, you can go up a little on that.

What really makes these engines crack is three or four carbs. Three YFA Carters with the 1983-1987 Mixture Control Solenoid takes three 72 to 88 hp 2.0/2.3 liter Ranger/Mustang 2.3/Fox 2.3 carbs, and it can cycle the fuel delivery to meet 12.5:1 under acceleration, and 14.7:1 under cruise (12.5:1 is now 12.8:1, and 14.7:1 is now 15.1:1 with modern US Gasoline).

Oh, sorry, "Mixture Control Solenoid", or MCS. No longer serviced part, sort of like Photobucket refusing to help you post photos...

I was serious about the Carter YFA carb. To add to these complicated 35 year old veteran carbs with check valve and variation prone issues already AND THEN add a very sophisticated EECIV control module was, um, optimistic....FrenchTownFlyer from Ford Six.Com said it best

"Was there ever a less helpfull feedback carb system....I doubt it!"

As a utility maintenance worker, I did work on Liquid Propane conversions, and the Ak Miller writen TSB manual said this trouble some piece could be jumpered by an Impco Fuel Control Valve, which then allowed the EECIV computer and MCS to behave normally, but it would be remote controlled by another system, Impcos Command Module.

MCS-8 Ford 1 Barrel YFA Pulse Solenoid 1983-86 Ford & Mercury 4 cyl., 1983-84 Ford Truck 4 cyl.

The Fox Holley 1-bbl 1946, and the HSC Tempo/Topaz Holley 1949 6145, 6149, 6153, look the same as the YFA Feed Back Carb, but are not the same, and don't have the Mixture Control Solenoid.


Ford's generic 4 cyl 2.3 OHC replacement part is

E4PZ-9S565-C

Walker 318-2006 still supply it

Its Standard Motor Part MX-33

"http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Standard-MX33-NEW-Mixture-Control-Solenoid-FORD-MERCURY-1983-1986-/282029461641"

MCS-9 Ford 1 Barrel YFA Pulse Solenoid 1983-86 Ford Truck 6 cyl.

No longer serviced

But its Standard Motor Part MX -32

"http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mixture-Control-Solenoid-Standard-MX32-fits-1983-Ford-F-150-4-9L-L6-/162474041769?hash=item25d43521a9:g:0hIAAOSwjDZYmbf0&vxp=mtr"

See https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?t=49168

Its basically fine untill the Pulse Width Modulated Mixture Control Solenoid goes on holiday. Then it retards igntion to a set amount, and the EECIV goes into a Skylab orbit, and crashes because the TFi, O2 sensor and MCS cant work within normal limits. The idle surges, and the miles per gallon goes up to 460 Big block level....

Click to expand...

EECIV is not a system I'd recommend unless you convert to a TFi ignition.

These things run best at leaner than the 14.7 :1 indicated or 15.1 actual on todays fuel blends. 15.5 or 16.1 is possible.


I am serious about the Carter YFA carb being an option. Technology is so cheap now, and the parts supply for this carb has improved considerably.


The YFA Feedback Two Step metering rod info exists now, too. The Feedback YFA has two kinds of generic calibration, that is changed with just the metering rod and Mixture Control Slenoid.

For Use with two kinds of Mixture Control Solenoid 2.3 Ranger/Mustang/Capri E4PZ-9S565-C or MX 33 or MCS-8

or the much richer Big Six 4.9 MX 32 or MCS-9 and its two step rod.




The controlling system I'd use is the very simple Arduino PWM computer, about 65 buxs, and a cat mounted O2 sensor, and front head stud mounted knock sensor.

E6RF 12A69BA sensor is the orange inserted item in one of XFlow_Fairlane's post #6
GM'S 1986-1996 1997562,10456017,10456287 (Tomco 29014) knock sensor
I like the Ford US stuff, but most Aussie EECV's use a similar Tomco's 29061 1998 Ford
and Mercury 1998-1999 # F8CZ 12A699 AA part with a two pin power up, and a second pin sensor check.

If you use the 1985-1986 Ford Mustang 2.3 EECIV or F150 4.9 1984-1987 EECIV to run it all,

Pin 32 should read 0v ign on & 0.2v with engine running.
Pin 57 should read 0.2v when ign on or engine running
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=76154

You can use EECIV or Arduino PWM computer to program the MCS and Knock sensor. And then run three 100% stock 2.0/2.3 4 cylinder OHC Lima engine carbs for about 168 dollars each. These 160 cfm at 1.5"Hg carbs are just like the 4.9 Feedback F150 and E150 truck carbs, same 1-11/16" throttle, and 1-5/16" venturi as the Fox Holley 1-bbl 1946, and the HSC Tempo/Topaz Holley 1949 6145, 6149, 6153. 43 mm carb, 33 mm throttle venturi.

That allows you to feed all six cylinders evenly, with a synchronised linkage. With a 264 cam, you'll get 188 hp with the stock 4-1/4" foot ball primary light off catalyst.

The same cam, with headers, made kevinl1058 181 flywheel hp and 144 rwhp with a T5 and three ICH/ICT 34 mm carbs with 29 mm venturis.

viewtopic.php?t=64712

The time honoured Offy Tripower intake makes a lot of power with small carbs, but with proper fuel managment, it makes a lot more power with big carbs on a modest tune. Engine Analyser Dyno runs are pretty accurate, the Tripower is a very competent piece, a lot better than many realise.



People who think 80's era emissions 3.3 barges are guttless, and they are stock.

Just reading Ak Millers 1967 to 1984 Autolite, Magazine, Jay Storer Propane Perfomance and 1985 Impco Technical Service Memoradums, and are missing the HUGE amount of really simple stuff that it is around. As the man himself said, there's a lot a good things in fuel managment.

Its a matter of getting fuel to cylinders. Eliminating seven sharp bends, and reducing the duty cylce of a 1-bbl carb with three carbs feeding two cylinders instantly increase HP out of sight. Anything you do with one carb feeding six cylinders isn't going to make a distribution problem any better.

So without a turbo, you can kick your rwhp up from 56 to 114 rwhp with an automatic, and from 72 rwhp to 149 rwhp with a T5 or similar manual gearbox. A 107% increase.

CZLN6":1376pnft said:

Howdy aPanzerIV:

FYI- The Holley #1946 carb is a very complex carb integrated with vacuum and thermal switches that limit its tuneability. It will be interesting to see how it handles your proposed cam change.

Adios, David

Click to expand...

I could not get a 1946 to work on the car. The original one bogged once it got warm, and leaned out after I rebuilt it. I bought a reman and it would run great up to about 30% throttle and lean out again.

Car now has a Carter YF 1bbl with a '80 style truck air cleaner. All of the plastic vacuum lines that come off the heater hose at the front of the motor are destroyed, having a bit of trouble recreating that and getting the bowl vent on the YF to function. I would guess I need it to run right before I try to hop it up.

Howdy Back Panzer:

The YF is a good upgrade, In my humble opinion. Was the YF off of the same truck the air cleaner came from? A 300 ci engine? And I agree with you that you need to get the carb dialed in and assess from there.

PS, When you tear down the engine to install the cam, that's a perfect time to freshen the head with a mill to increase Compression Ratio (CR), a valve job with a back-cut on the intake valves. And to consider prep for the two barrel carb conversion as well as the header.

Keep up posted on the carb and the tune-up.

Adios, David

Call Jerry at Schneider cams. He will recommend the cam you need for your application.
The key to proper performance is getting a DS11 distributor curved for your application. I can help you there.
I would not recommend the DUI distributor it is full of engineering defects starting with oiling problems to the shaft.
The DS11 is superior to the above. Bill

TFi is better than DS11 in all respects if its tied in with an EECIV computer.

That's how all 1984 onwards US 4.9's and all 1985 onwards AUS 3.3/4.1's ran, with a Spout/POUT controlled solid state ignition.


People I work with on other forums just hack into old EECIV BOARDS AND run the basic systems




The "Mixture Control Solenoid", or MCS is just a stand in ISC which operates as a Bosch injector does. Its a very lean from the Ranger YFA and 2.3 Mustangs and Foxes, and its just simple, easy Pulse Width controlled stuff.

The common , dirt cheap TFI distributor body from an I4 HSC 2.3 or HSO 2.5, or XF Falcon from 1985-1992, or a 4.9 Feedback F truck or E Van gives you a conservative base timing, and default 10 degrees base timing if the EECIV module misses any data at all.

People didn't realise that its just a vac and base volteage check to get you back on line....the system drops out if the feedback isn't present.


The system is totally based on the O2, MAP nad TPS sensors, just like an EFI car.

See /viewtopic.php?p=24715

The real advantage of it is that you can get all the parts, and have 100% fuel control and proper intense igntion timing.


I'd personally use the EECIV from an F150, and three YFA's and wire the three MCS's to the one circuit. The feedback sensors are simple, the TFi is simple and serviced everywhere, and the Offy intake always produces good results with later heads.


Its a 3400 pound Station wagon, a mild performance upgrade is one that makes everything work like a modern car.

Our 1981 Falcon 3.3 station Wagons were 18.5 secon 1/4 mile cars with a 3 speed manual. With the Offy and YFA's, its all bolt on. The EECIV is just the same as the EFI 5.0, only simplier.

The O2 sensor hookup, easy. Six pack of catalyst, heat shield and O2 sensor pictures! The cat is a big old thing, but they make a much better replacement, and the exhaust is efficient...

"IMG_6861"

"IMG_7222"

"IMG_7223"

"IMG_7224"

"IMG_7227"

"IMG_7228"



The O2 sensor has two wire, white /black stripe, yellow/ black stripe link-up, with 2-3/8" probe into the catalyst distance, its mounts at about 3-1/2", and about 4 -3/4" long tip to outer heat wrap. Std a spark plug type.

CZLN6":2s7c4112 said:

Howdy Back Panzer:

The YF is a good upgrade, In my humble opinion. Was the YF off of the same truck the air cleaner came from? A 300 ci engine? And I agree with you that you need to get the carb dialed in and assess from there.

Keep up posted on the carb and the tune-up.

Adios, David

Click to expand...

The YF and the air cleaner came off of a '81 F100 with the 300. I rebuilt the carb and bought a filter for the air cleaner.

I fiddled with a lot of vacuum setups including the one on the hood of the car, and as of now I have the dizzy plugged into a Y connector that has it on both manifold and ported carb vacuum. My mechanic tried to explain to me how the carb will have more vacuum at throttle (I didn't get it) but I guess the point is we're trying to set up a curve with vacuum because there is no centrifugal advance in the distributor.

I'm going to head to the junkyard and see if I can find a DSII with the centrifugal advance, if there are any (anyone have information on this?).

The car already pulls much better. At one point earlier in the year the holley setup magically worked for a week and a half and I got 29mpg on a highway trip, so recreating that result is my current goal with tuning.

Did someone remove the centrifugal advance or drop in a sixties distributor in the engine? If you can't find one Cardone sells a reman and an aftermarket DSII distributor for the engine. You want the one with the single port vacuum advance.

X2 your 1981 would have came stock with an excellent DuraSpark II (DSII) ignistion system. All you need to do is get it recurved unless it needs new shaft bushings too. Send it to Bill (Wsa111) he wil get you dialed in quickly. Good luck

aPanzerIV":3f0tbjid said:

CZLN6":3f0tbjid said:

Howdy Back Panzer:

The YF is a good upgrade, In my humble opinion. Was the YF off of the same truck the air cleaner came from? A 300 ci engine? And I agree with you that you need to get the carb dialed in and assess from there.

Keep up posted on the carb and the tune-up.

Adios, David

Click to expand...

The YF and the air cleaner came off of a '81 F100 with the 300. I rebuilt the carb and bought a filter for the air cleaner.

I fiddled with a lot of vacuum setups including the one on the hood of the car, and as of now I have the dizzy plugged into a Y connector that has it on both manifold and ported carb vacuum. My mechanic tried to explain to me how the carb will have more vacuum at throttle (I didn't get it) but I guess the point is we're trying to set up a curve with vacuum because there is no centrifugal advance in the distributor.

I'm going to head to the junkyard and see if I can find a DSII with the centrifugal advance, if there are any (anyone have information on this?).

The car already pulls much better. At one point earlier in the year the holley setup magically worked for a week and a half and I got 29mpg on a highway trip, so recreating that result is my current goal with tuning.

Click to expand...

No one seasms to get the FoMoCo Duraspark II dual advance and three port vac 1946 Holley Carb hookup. The YFA has a different kind of hookup.

Each 1-bbl carb has to have the right emissions hookups to work.

Okay tiger. You'll smash this stuff out easily if you know what line is what.


You'll need a Ford hand vacuum pump to set the choke unloader and electric choke.




You apply the vaccum at point A on the VECI label.


Get any of the check valves or Diodes wrong (the white and black duffors onthe VECI diagram) , or the PCV or any of the Delay Valves or EGR Diverter valves wrong, and guess, what, no workie properly!


That's not an excuse for ditching the gear....its easier to "name and claim" the stuff, and make it work for you.

It lasts a l-o-n-g time, you can get it anywhere, and it fixes cold, warm and hot starting issues as well as looking after emissions with no power penalty, or economy penalty. By 1978 to 1983 3.3's, most of the stuff was 100% sorted, but 1980 to 1983's are a heck of a lot better s long as the primary cataylist isn't clogged up. 78-79's, often never idle right even if you follow the diagrams because of other leaks in the stock parts, especially the EGR alloy casting and there is an altitide compensator in the fender that often makes life a pita on some.


You all just need some basic ideas on what goes with what....here it is again for "Lovers of the YFA Carter on 3.3 engines"....how to do it, chapter and verse.

Remember, port vacuum is a durty Yanky Word in 1968 to date VECI speak....so you won't find it anywhere on a 1968 to 1992 carby Ford VECI diagram.



What you'll find is a convoluted MAN vac source (Manifold Vacuum)

An E source for EGR

An S source for spark (Venturi Vacuum, a speed port)

Ported vacuum is not listed as ported vacuum....

A PCV valve thats not noted as so, its hooked into the Air Cleaner "TVS" valves and "A/CL" circuits


then a whole brace of funny spark diverter valves (DV's) with weird stuff like this

Clockwise from front passenger side of carb is S, E, then V and then BV.





At the front is all that funny stuff, the VCKV and VCV check valves. Sometimes, you even get a bad case of VDV.....


On sixes after 1980, there are Blue four port PVS switches (passenger side front), and Green Two port TVS switches at the drivers side front.


Other examples are


Green DVCV 3 port PVS vaccum switches

Blue TCVV 2 port vaccum switches (TVS swithces but not the same as the A/CL TVS switches)

and (no letter suffix) the Black SDV Spark Delay or Vaccuum delay valves.

Each are so easy to get, it makes all I6's a hand free Idle warm up while getting Coffee at Toms Diner a way to warm your car up while listing to one Suzanne Vega song..




Enjoy...but for G""ds sake, read it and ask questions.

xctasy":2jvqrb07 said:

There are two lines at the passenger side front.

Lower is the yellow line to the distirbutor via the S valve,

Upper is the capped E = EGR control port, a green line usually E port.

On the drivers side front of the pre 1981 versions at the top, there is the capped large diameter BV Bowel Vent

Below it, also capped, is the V port is the lower drivers side front.

That oughta get you in sync.

The lines have color check valves/diodes to get priority flow that changes the vacuum source form Spark to Ported or Manifold via the later model vaccum and emission lines, like the Mustang 4-bbl M codes from 1983 to 1985. It can put a fair old strain on the grey matter finding out where any of this stuff goes without an existing car to copy.

Click to expand...

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=75674&p=591463#p591463

xctasy":2jvqrb07 said:

Item's

8 BV: Bowl Vent (on top of the float tanks)
17 MAN VAC: Indicating Manifold vacuum-Vacuum source for brake booster
21 V VAC: short for Vacuum
35 S Spark Port
37 E EGR Port

BV changed when the electric bowel vent came out. For pre 1980, this should be right.

Listed by RED 78'
http://myzephyrs.com/CARB_DIAGRAM.HTM

Click to expand...

click on the link above, .. cannot copy it, Copyright 2011 JIM KOCH



No clear 1978-1980 Ford VECI exists for each type, they rely on no-one having mucked about with the details. Your basically screwed if they have been fiddled with.

The problem is that only the Mopar 1-bbl Holley 1945 stuff on the net is all encompassing

Mopar 1974 Master Technicians Service Conferance (MTST) rebuild video is the best help...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBti9Y-5g60

Just have to re name

the Power_valve_modulator



OSAC (Orifice Spark Advance Control) ,
autozone.com's 1945/6145 carb service is good, whereas the Ford one is just downright nasty...

http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Ch ... 528007fc53

Fig. 1: Float level adjustment for the Holley 1945 and 6145 carburetors
Fig. 2: Accelerator pump piston stroke adjustment for the Holley 1945 carburetor
Fig. 3: Fast idle cam position adjustment on the Holley 1945 carburetor
Fig. 4: Choke unloader adjustment for the Holley 1945 carburetor
Fig. 5: Choke vacuum kick adjustment for the Holley 1945 carburetor
Fig. 6: Fast idle speed adjustment for the Holley 1945 and 6145 carburetors
Fig. 7: Dashpot adjustment for the Holley 1945 carburetor


Sadly, there is no one ready reader for the 1946, 1949, or 6149/6153 on autozone.com. They use Ford supplied info, and its sadly "lumped-in" with Fords most complicated carbs known to mankind, the 2700 and 7200 Motorcraft, and the simplest, the 2100/2150. Then there is the YFA and CFi, plus MCU and EEC controls just to totally mess up the mash up. I'm an engineering technician, and it took me 5 years to get on top of this stuff.

People also repaint the engines, chop and change carb parts entirely , decide they don't want the AIR pump, secondary air, the primary cat, or remove the A/C or put a later model engine in an try to jumper bits form 1970's cars to it. KnightMARE!

The only thing that helped me was the Jay Storer Propane book, and then the Impco Techncial Service Bulletins from 1984...that at least gives you an over-view of the systems that you can then eliminate from the Ford documents. Maliase? You betcha!


And you giet this kind of stuff too, where people have use the earlier years 200 or later years 250 or even 300 truck carbs on a Fox body...they bolt right on, you know, have the same size venturi and throttle, yet each year from 1978 to 1983, there were rampant changes that just slay you.

A good YFA is a lot neater...its a natural fitment.

This is how to YFA Carter an originally Holley 1946 3.3 Fox engine

The low profile 250 and 300 YFA carb air cleaner is interchangable, as the air cleaner snout stamping says. The X-shell Granada, Comete/Maverick/Monarch need these air cleaner housings as they are the low hood cars with very tall long stroke 250's. The X- shell variant versions also fit the F100 300 cube truck.

Notice that conversely, the F150 truck air cleaner serves both the 250 and 300.

This is the F150 300 air cleaner on the Carter YFA equiped 1980 250 (or a low mount 200)

The Carter YFA air cleaner in one of its natural settings is this 1978 Granada 250.




That was the other side of this 1980 Monarch 250 shot. Same air cleaner, I think



Notice that both the Holley 1946 with its factory adaptor is 5 1/8" tall, the Carter YF lookes 5 -1/8 " without it. I guess the earlier Carter YF on auto IMCO Mustangs and the later Carter RBS would be the same height.

The 'bump' for the YF hot air automatic choke and Holley 1946 on my Fox air cleaner lookes the same, but either carb needs the bump to clear the automatic pulldown choke. .


The YFA F100 air cleaner got revised from the Gomer Pyle Army issue version to the later snorkel kind.


Initially, the old 73-74 E100 E200 E300 NOS FORD D3UZ-9600-A




It stayed around quite a while with its extra emmisions additions..

Click to expand...

http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc501/xecute6/7374E100E200E300NOSFORDD3UZ_9600_A_37.jpg

Its okay, The schematic aint always so easy, because the names of the parts evolved from the 1979 list.


They are noramlly color coded Pink or Blue or Orange, but can look Purple or Brown with age (or I might just be a closet color blind guy...)

Part number 12A 182 makes it one of the VCS Vacuum Controlled Switches (actualy SOL V Solenoid Valve operation switches).

The Best swap-over was Red 78''s original 1979 list

http://myzephyrs.com/vac_part_name.htm

Vacuum Controlled Switch (Generic)
Vacuum Controlled Switch (Cold Temp) = VCS-CT
Vacuum Controlled Switch (Decel Idle) = VCS-DI


Manual 4-bbl 5.0 83, 84 and 85's differ, so these two 85 diagrams will only be a little help.

I think 1984 5 speeds had four

Its the multiple terms for the same thing....

I've found this the nicest quick list care of qikgts

qikgts":2pibq2j0 said:

Don't know if this will be any help but figured I might as well post it again. This is the underhood diagram from my '85 with high altitude compensation equipment.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/attachment. ... 1494703055

Click to expand...

Its a Solenoid operation device, what it operates is labelled somewhere else with a letter on the schematic.

Problem here is that there are incorrect terms on the VECI diagram compared to the 1979 list. Sometimes, the line diagrams have your eye balls on hellz-apopin' stalks after a few minutes.



SOL V DIV is the TAD vent Solenoid, Diverter
SOL V DUMP is the TAB vent Solenoid, Bypass

On other engines, it has a different colors, and sometimes, a different purpose.

Now, AIR: This is a Secondary air injection Ford calls the Thermactor, short for Thermal Reactor. CA vehicles are installed with it as standard. Air Injection Reaction is what it stands for.

The thermactor system consists mainly of the air pump, the air pump diverter and bypass valves, TAB and TAD solenoids (if equipped) and the catalytic converter.

AIR BPV: Air Bypass Valve (aka Thermactor Air Bypass TAB)

My A/C throttle kicker Solenoid on my 81 3.3

xctasy":3166fuww said:

No one seasms to get the FoMoCo Duraspark II dual advance and three port vac 1946 Holley Carb hookup. The YFA has a different kind of hookup.

Each 1-bbl carb has to have the right emissions hookups to work.

Click to expand...

Alright, now it makes sense what my mechanic was talking about. The venturi port will have more vacuum at throttle because it bottlenecks airflow.

I believe I have all of the emissions equipment set up correctly according to the diagram on the hood. Smog pump and cat was taken off by the previous owner so the vacuum I have setup omits that. He did a sloppy job with oversize pipe that dumps under the car, I plan to either replace all of this or just extend it to the back of the car.

I did note that the car starts easy both hot and cold now. May be due to a rich condition but I guess I'll have to sort the rest of the tuning out and see. It still pings while lugging but after 2000 rpms or so it's smooth and pulls all the way to 4500. Mechanic suggested the possibility of needing to re-jet the carb since it came off a larger motor.

I do have more questions about the purge valve and it's function. Without the bowl vent hooked up the fuel overheats on short trips and floods the engine. The bowl vent on the holley 1946 is electronically controlled, and the YFA appears to be a mechanical vent that appears to open only at idle. Right now I have it hooked up to the purge valve as per the diagram on the hood (for a 1946) and have no issues with fuel heating. However this photo you have shows the bowl vent hooked directly into manifold vacuum.




Now you also have this one which is a 78 Granada with the YFA on a 250ci. Can't see the carburetor itself but I am interested in seeing how they have it routed.

You wouldn't happen to have a vacuum diagram or a emissions code for this setup would you?

You''ll get a clear picture with this lot. VECI's and EVTM's are hard to get on line for the 75 to 92 Carb era big Fords.


Hang in there. it gets easier if you have all the schematics.

See viewtopic.php?t=76412.

1978's used a Vacuum Amplifier, the big old duffor on the drivers side rocker cover.

79's of all types (3.3/4.1) didn't
:chill: 78-79's, inferior systems and you won't find a nice pictorial 75-79 YFA 200/250/300 VECI anywhere on the internet unless you use this

"Ford Granada and Monarch Electrical and Vacuum Trouble Shooting Manual"


You'll find it in evil bay




or here https://picclick.ca/1979-Ford-Granada-M ... 91270.html


1980-1983 was very different, so it won't help much.


All Basic Part Numbers are under the American Granada, Monarch and Versailles
Parts Interchange (1975 – 1980)

See http://jhkaster.bizland.com/Granada/GMV_Interchange_Final.pdf


Again, 78 to 79, they had the worst Emissions systems, and Maverick 200/250 is the best one to copy, as it had a YFA Carter.


1. the Air Pump was on the wrong side on the old Coil over a arm Granadas and Monanarchs, but not the 1978 Maverick...it was a hangerover from the earlier years and different, and

2. they have a non integrated EGR with problems.

3. They have other stuff to contend with


And a cursory note, if you using the F truck In line YFA I6 4.9 diagrams...The oil filler and Valve cover PCV were in different postions on some 300 engines


Like this



Mike1157's engine was a used 1978 250 Maverick, which is the same as the Granada, Monarch and in fact, even the F100 300 engine in its VECI schematic.

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums ... 263/page-2




A great help that will work in your situation is this 1981 F150 truck VECI


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9672 ... tions.html

Since most people yank out the Air Pump (evil b $+@rds ) the system is a lot "simpler". I never have. Doesn't make me any beter than anyone else, but the Secondary AIR EGR system is like this



At the back, Downstream after Primary catalyst AIR, beside it, Upstream before catalyst AIR,
and then TAD Thermactor Air Diverter Valve
and an TAB Thermactor AIR BPV - Air By Pass Valve

and a stanadard 31 pound per hour Air pump. On 4.9's, 4.1's and V8 4.2/5.0's, always on the passenger side, but on the Fox 3.3's after 1978, on the drivers side. Some 1978 3.3 Granadas, Mavericks had them on the passenger side.




VCV - Vacuum Control Valve
TVS - Thermal Vacuum Switch
PURGE CV- Vapor Canister Purge Valve
AIR BPV - Air ByPass Valve
A/CL DV - Air Cleaner Diverter Valve
A/CL BIMET - Air Cleaner Bi-Metallic valve
A/CL CWM - Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulator
BV - Bowl Vent
VRDV - Vacuum Retard Delay Valve
VRESER - Vacuum Reservoir
V CK V - Vacuum Check Valve
TVV - Thermostatic Vacuum Valve

the Green purge CV valve to the forward area so that it’s easier to access
E = EGR Valve Port.
S = Distributor Vacuum Advance.
3 = Crowd #3.

The choke stove operates this way:-

Fresh air leaves the carb from this post and goes to a metal line. From the metal line it goes to the bottom of the choke stove on the bottom of the exaust manifold. The fresh air is heated, through the choke stove, and another metal line is attached to the top of the choke stove on the top of the exaust manifold. This metal line attaches to the threaded fitting just in back of the choke. The chokes on these trucks are thermally assisted electric chokes, and needs both the choke stove, and the electric signal from the altenator to operate properly

Click to expand...

.

the main PCV line is going to the right port for a reversed system the F150 truck uses, with the PCV at the back. This is the metal tree with the spare vacuum ports connected to the INT MAN connection


The system is functioning and the lines are routed properly.TVS valve is labeled by the plastic molding and the right hoses are going to the right ports as there is a small one and large. The other two are the A/CL CWM and A/CL BI MET.

There is an EGR closure circuit at WOT. It closes and keeps closed the EGR valve durring wide open throttle conditions.

The 1981 300/6 didnt have an electrical Dashpot. The A/C throttle solenoid (if equipped) is attached to the front and uses the same cam attached to the throttle as the WOT switch. Of course if you don't have A/C you don't have the solenoid. On most non feedback 78 to 81 YFA's, there are two screw holes on the passenger side front of the carb. This is where it would attach.







The cheap YFA Carter carbs are now imported Chinese. Frankenstang got his in 2014, when they were 170 US. Now, they are 85 dollars if you look. They have inferior plastic, and a unified design, BUT the basics are all there.

Now, the advantage is that they can take pre-feedback 1968-1981 metering rods and have an MCS blank off plate.

Or the two step feedback metering rods and an O2 senor driven MCS to control air fuel ratio, just like EFi.




















They are supposed to interface with these following 9 features



1 EGR
2 AIR Check Valve
3 Electric "Pulloff" Choke
4 ISC (Feedback, VOTM or Idel Solenoid, non feedback)
5 Not described
6 Choke Pulloff (Aplication of Hand Vacuum to disengage the choke quickly when warm)
7 TPS (Throttle Postion Sensor)
8 MCS (Mixture Control Solenid)
9 Fuel filter

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76871


PCV goes to base of carb.



The system is controlled by a green and white Delay Valve as per the 81 f150 post. This one.





Its acutated by the Blue Four peg VCV at the water junction off the upper termostat housing on I6's, a few different types exist. The VECI's for any 81 I6, 3.3 or 4.9 truck, pretty much cover it.


Your "Four pegger" VCV is the blue one on the passenger side




I'd keep it all hooked up with EGR and AIR and air pump if it were me. But thats your choice....

Any 1981 in line six had the same four pegger.

Here was mine.

Unhooking it just makes the other stuff non operative, and that's why I respect the VECI and keept it hooked up.


The delay valve was black and green, I've seen other colors on 81's.

xctasy":1rcjujdm said:

Ford never liked to, but every year the VECI set ups changed. On the carb 4.9 liter 300 i6, Feedback carbs, or, on the 3.8 liter 231V6, going from 2-bbl carb to CFi, each new emission standard got a air cleaner new re-routing.

PCV to under the carb, rocker cover to air cleaner to "feed the machine". Don't work any other way.


Do it like this :mrgreen:

Click to expand...

xctasy":36pf3q9p said:

You''ll get a clear picture with this lot. VECI's and EVTM's are hard to get on line for the 75 to 92 Carb era big Fords.


Hang in there. it gets easier if you have all the schematics.

See viewtopic.php?t=76412.

1978's used a Vacuum Amplifier, the big old duffor on the drivers side rocker cover.

79's of all types (3.3/4.1) didn't
:chill: 78-79's, inferior systems and you won't find a nice pictorial 75-79 YFA 200/250/300 VECI anywhere on the internet unless you use this

Click to expand...

Many thanks, I think I've finally got it dialed in!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5qB0BLaM4w
5 months ago

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbfZhC_oTsA
today

Only shed a second, but gained so much drivability. Time for some real mods

http://schneidercams.com/24856HfordI6hydraulic.aspx

Also looking at this cam also, a user here has it in his Bronco but he says he hasn't driven on it much.