Would a 70 250 head bolt on 67 200 block?

I've got an opportunity to purchase a 250 head from a 70. Correct me if I'm wrong, but this head has a separate intake and not a log intake?

Also, will this head even fit on my current block? I've just done a lot of work to my 200, so if I can only replace the head, that'd be sweet.

If it is a US head it is a log head but it can be an improvement especially a later casting like 79 or later and carb like an 1101. What is the casting code on your current 200 head?

None of the stock Ford cast iron heads that were made in the USA for a 144, 170, 200, or 250 small six of any year have a seperate intake, they are all intriccal Logs. The only small Ford six cast iron heads that ever had a removable intake were made over in Australia (2V), & Brazil, and then an aftermarket version of the Australia 2V in Aluminum that was first made by C. I. And is now being made by V. I. All these heads are interchangeable. Good luck

Hi, a head swap can be a great improvement.
But your old carb may not fit.
Later heads have larger carb openings.
All of the domestic small Ford 6 heads have integral intakes.
The bigger Ford truck 6 has the separate intake manifold.
Get the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook to learn about the different cylinder heads and get the most from your Ford six.
Good luck on

kite us a pic !

U got just bout all info possible: iron?/alu?, send us casting #s plez, big i6 (240/300 ci) v sm i6, Argie/Oz/USA, good/better/the best is a '77 plus (esp w/'77 + ignition), AND that all this info'n more is in The Fordi6 Performance Handbook (avail frm the supplier of that alu removable intake head - vintage inlines dot com ~ $20). Also - while awaiting delivery, click on above big blue box @ crossed screwdriver'n wrench. Good info AND some ID pic to see all we've mentioned...

W E L C O M E !!
to the forum, best on the site
Stick around'n Enjoy !

It will bolt to your block no problem. And yes it is a much better head. It's a large log head. It still has the smaller intake valve and doesn't have hardened exhaust seats. It's not a big deal. It's a good head. Where these heads, esp the later 70's ones in my limited experience, love to crack is in between the #3 and 4 exhaust valves. When it's magnafluxed have them pay special attention to that area. Looking at it from the spark plug side, upside down they crack @ ~2 o clock on #3 and ~10 on #4. You will need a different carb and will want to go to a ds2 distributor and coil or better. And you'll need to have it milled to get or keep you're C/R at 9:1 with the new head gasket. For that # you'll have to measure after the head is off.

You can just get a valve job and new springs and seals or you can have hardened exhaust seats installed and the later intake valve. It will add to the cost. I opted to have larger valves put in my 69 head but didn't have seats put in and it cost me $487 + the cost of the valves, springs, locks and retainers. I had the seals and the gaskets from a felpro gasket kit. That's out here in can't-afford-us, WA dollars. Not the good ol' hoosier greenbacks I used to carry around back home in Indiana, they carried a little more weight. I used the later 1.75" intakes and used nos fomoco 1.46" 144 intake valves for the exhaust.

Econoline":o0ks89r9 said:

...That's out here in can't-afford-us, WA dollars. Not the good ol' hoosier greenbacks I used to carry around back home in Indiana, they carried a little more weight...

Click to expand...

cracked me up!
but yeah, I know what U mean.
Left Coast/Right coast (Chi-town'n Huston, etc too).

I appreciate all the input.

So what I hear you all saying is that it may still be "better" to go with the 250 head even though it has the same type of intake?

Yeah, it's a better head with a larger "log" type integrated intake and a larger carb opening than the earlier heads like you have now. Still less than ideal, but better for sure than what you've got.

Yes same type but larger and flows more = more power.
The chamber is larger and you will need to deal that with by milling the head to bring the compression back up.

Howdy Jones and All:

You've got your question answered, so now, I have a question for you. You said that you've already done alot of work on your engine. What have you had done? Specifically, what on the head? The answer to that question would effect how I would respond to acquiring a 1970 250 head.

FYI- know that 200 and 250 heads are, for the most part, indistinguishable from each other and interchangeable. The best heads for an upgrade for your engine would be a 200/250 head made after 1978, for a larger carb mounting hole, largest intake tract volume and the addition of hardened valve seats.

Keep it coming and good luck.

Adios, David

Mr. (or Ms.) Jones...missing in action - 3 days.
Not time to send out the posse ...yet...

250 - Tq (long stroke)
200 - more of a lill rever

The entire top end of the 200 was rebuilt recently. Lifters, cam, and valve job. New one barrel carb.

Sorry I went MIA

Alajones":27s1poa0 said:

...Sorry I went MIA

Click to expand...

Well now, there Pilgrim, welcome back to the ranch. (said with my best 'Duke' imression).

Nxt question - what is it that U seek frm this new build ?
The 250 was rebuilt but is not installed on the 200 yet?
U wonder the 1st nxt steps in doing so...?
Again - pic really help in response quality.

The head is new - whassss up wid da 'block' ?

Howdy Back Jones:

Did the builder mill the stock head to compensate for the thicker composite head gaskets available today? Did you get paper work that tells what they did? How is it running? Are you still using the Load-O-Matic distributor and stock type carb?

Keep it coming

Adios, David