2V conversion for rebuilt engine: worth it?

So I find myself in an interesting position; I've recently acquired a rebuilt '67 200 with a '69 large log head (using the classic inlines kit, mild cam, oversized valves, port work and a DUI distributor) for my '66 Mustang. The previous owner originally intended to do Holley Sniper 1V fuel injection, so the carb opening on the log remains original.

My question is, does it make sense to pull the head on a completely rebuilt engine to do the 2V conversion? I'm mainly looking for reliability at this point, and figure I could always pull the head later and do the conversion if I wanted (or buy the aluminium head when it's available!). I've got the Weber 32/36 and was looking at this adapter: https://www.vintageinlines.com/product-page/weber-1v-2v-adaptor-large-log. Anyone have good experiences with those? Thanks in advance.

The weber conversion by vintage inlines is fine.
Make sure to get the combustion volume close to 50 cc's.
A Victor head gasket is .004" thinner than the Felpro.
Your DUI also needs to be recurved & the oiling problem needs to be addressed.
If you want it done email me billythedistributorman@live.com Cost is $115.00 plus parts & shipping. Bill

The 2v to 1v adapter is a bolt on and good for about 5hp.
The 2v conversion is worth 25 hp, but you have to remove the head and do machine work ($). You will have an opportunity to do a bit more to the head and gain even more HP. The replacement head gasket is thicker than the original gasket so you will lose compression. Milling the .025" will off set the gasket, but if your paying the shop to mill the head you might as well have them cut .070 off and gain some compression.
The "BOOK" has info on doing porting and milling the head. Probably looking at 35hp by doing the log head. Worth it??? depends. Your looking at a whole bunch of just a "little more" steps, each gaining more HP and costing a "little more" $$. That rabbit hole can get deep real fast.
If your serious about an aluminum head in the near future , leave the head alone and do the 2v-1v adapter. If unsure then maybe 35 hp will scratch your itch

-well said wem0-

I'd drop the dui & go '77+ stock DSII (or a gm 4 pin in place of the ford box). Ign is 1st, faster, often cheeper that carb & often more results
(needed in the end anyway). I also like "incremental" (a bit of a "scientist playing w/his toys" here, also a v e r y thin budget). Last, tho difficult to do well, I like the 'direct mount 2v' in the above tech archive:
https://fordsix.com/ci/LogMods.html#2VC
see last 1/2 of that page...

as wem0 sez - U may B the sorta person who just wants to go for that right offa da startin blocks.
Worth? Only U can say.
Good buddy on here (actually several) went thru the 'incremental' process (I'm in, see above) and after 1/2 ora doz yrs went bent8

Thanks everybody this is good info. Based on what wme13 is saying, sounds like it's a matter of 20HP, since the head has already been decked, ported and milled. And yes chad that is the 2V conversion I was considering. It does look tricky to do, which has got me leaning towards skipping it. It would be a real bummer if I took a part an essentially brand-new engine to only have the machine shop wreck the head while digging out the log for the 2V adapter.

I think for now I'll go for the 2-to-1 adapter. I haven't really driven the car in over a year, so I'm anxious to get this new engine in and do some other maintenance/upgrades before next spring. One day maybe I'll do a V8 swap but I'll settle for a good daily driver in the meantime. I don't think my original I6 was ever in great shape so I'm excited to see how this new one performs.

There is also one other way that's in between these two mod's that site member Xctasy has used and talked about a number of years ago. This is to open up the heads carb mounting base hole to 2 to 2 1/8 inches and then grinding a redius (the short turn) on the bottom of the hole leading to the lenght of the log in both directions. Also open up the bottom of the carb adapter to match the new larger size, this would increase the flow into the log giving you a little bit more of a Horse Power boost in the process. Ths would be a do it yourself type job that dosen't take very much time to do, best of luck.

Oh, I hadn't heard of any issues with the D.U.I distributors wsa111. What's the oiling problem you're referring to? I had sort of assumed the D.U.I was the best distributor for the engine, why would the DSII be better?

There is also a Carter repro single barrel 250 cfm cheap on ebay, china made though, that is some what easy to fit based upon user statements. Also on ebay a Carter BBD repro two barrel that can fit with some adaptation without removing the head. china made also unfortunately but cheap like $90.

"...why would the DSII be better..."
not just the dizzy. The ign system.
Bill will tell U bout the dui draw backs (oil leaking, non parkerized, etc).
My issues is additionally - w/costs'n what U get for it, access to oem (locally at every store).

"... head has already been decked..."
possibly milled flat, some taken off for thicker modern gasket. U may want more detail here (even take ur own measurements) B4 reassembly. (Hint: use the studs - they will guide the gasket'n lowering of the head - all for care free assembly, later upgrade). We 'deck' the block (deck is measured from crank CL to top of block).

",,,wreck the head while..."
ck our forum on 'recommended local machinists'. Grab a cheep extra head (77+) and have ur way w/it while driving the current. Slide it over the studs when happy...

uber,
I modify everything I get.It's just an obsession.Or a hobby,I get those two confused sometimes.
But,every time I do something,I learn something and,maybe acquire a new skill or technique.
I've done 17 heads now,8 of which predate the internet.If I could get a cut price on adapter from Mike,I'd buy a bunch.I could get some made locally,big batch,and about this time,I order but I don't think I've I've got that much lifetime left.
Now,you said "oversized valves" but you didn't say how big or if it has hardened seats or 3 angle cut, stainless or what.Details matter to this bunch,a lot.
If you don't cam that thing,even a little bit,that's wasted effort,at least to me.The D.U.I.?One buddy running one has replace it,now running a stocker/points until he gets his re-curved DS2 back.Find anther head if you can and do as much as you can yourself.
A $10 grinder,$10 in cutting wheels and grinder wheels,about this time,I order 2 adapters from V.I. I get one 32/36 and an autolite.
Use the 2100 adapter to mark the bigger hole and grab my craigslist Dremel.
I made an oven from a turkey fryer to make me an oven for proper heating of the heads so I don't crack them and then braze any openings up,but if you send it out to be done,take it to a welder first,cause the machine shop will just farm it out to a welder and charge 10%.
Put the 2100 adapter on mark and drill and tap.Take it off and put the 32/36 adapter on and repeat.The back holes on the adapters are what I use and are not exzact,but I have a drill.When using a 32/36,I plug the exposed holes with set plugs and threadlocker and when using the Holley,don't worry about the holes.
If the 32/36 doesn't make you smile,and the 2100 doesn't make your heart race,get to the doctor.

wsa111":2w1ho22e said:

The weber conversion by vintage inlines is fine.
Make sure to get the combustion volume close to 50 cc's.
A Victor head gasket is .004" thinner than the Felpro.
Your DUI also needs to be recurved & the oiling problem needs to be addressed.
If you want it done email me billythedistributorman@live.com Cost is $115.00 plus parts & shipping. Bill

Click to expand...

The shaft oiling on the recent DUI's cause oil starvation & could cause the shaft to seize, plus the distributor curve is not set up for your engine combination. Also needs a full 12V supply via a relay.
The DS11 is a better distributor, but you need an ignition box & a coil. The MSD with a MSD Blaster 2 coil. Another option is use a HEI Module.

See my listings for the DS11 & HEI Module in the small ford six for sale section. Bill

wsa111":20kht4y0 said:

wsa111":20kht4y0 said:

...Another option is use a HEI Module...Bill

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

C 'go fast for less" dot com for an explination, schematic and more...

chad":2ycsiu0g said:

wsa111":2ycsiu0g said:

wsa111":2ycsiu0g said:

...Another option is use a HEI Module...Bill

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

C 'go fast for less" dot com for an explination, schematic and more...

Click to expand...

That go fast for less has a lot of bad info in it, especially in the advance curve area.
You need a full 12V on any performance ignition system.