You guys need to quietly, gentley search the forum and really dig deep, the answers are here, mainly from the US, but also from Europe and Australia. Its to Mikes credit that this superb adjunct to FordSixPerformance exists, and it remains for people to simply copy the sucessfull turbo people here and take up the challenge. I totally advocate using stock exhast manifolds, and making the changes that allow your I6 to have a good turbo exhast plumbing.
Most problems are based on the low 7.803" deck height 200 with high mount starter in early Ford X shell chassis. The guys who aren't having problems with turbo mounting are the low mount starter engines, and easier still are the 9.469" deck 250 engines which always have low mount starters. The exception is Georges cross flow, which has no carb on the right hand side, a 9.38" deck and the high mount starter isn't really in the way.
The ideal is this
In practice, high mount 200 engines are actually difficult to turbo within the confines of an X shell engine bay. Battery needs relocating, the turbo needs carefull placement, and if air conditioned, the A/C needs to be relocated and perhaps the alternator too. On 250 and low mount 200's, no thing much needs doing, especially if its in a Fox body or Bronco.
I advocate going to low mount 200 blocks and 250 engines, but if you have a high mount 200, you can simply take a Cologne V6 C3, C4 or C5 bellhousing and the 138 flexplate from the Fox C3, and bolt it to any early Explorer 5R55, C4 or C5 gearbox that can fit the Ranger/Bronco II trans. Just a .0625" alloy or steel plate to allow the V6 bolts to hook up to the stock 2.77 or 3.03 bolt patterns, and the starter is out of the way. An old 200 crank can be cut up to make a spacer to mount the flywheel further out, and some manual transmission bolts will work. The rest is just good turbo plumbing and taking advice from the carb guys who have done turbo swaps.
If you are highmount 200, then expect to need some extra tallent to get it together, but the guys like 66Sprint and others had turbo high mount Mustangs with simple J tubes, so it can be done!.
Once the turbo system gives a clear, well distributed shot to a carb in its stock location, you can then concentrate on the historically better 2-bbl carb turbo systems.Linc 200's and Does10's drag200stang and George are the go to posts to get your head around, cars with big turbos and lots of smarts. And some of them a running very radical cams and simple induction systems, only Does10s and George ended up going the EFI route. When the cam duration is increased for the Ford i6 turbo, it lookes after detonation issues, becasue the stock 200 and 250's are so conservatively timed.
Since most cars here are left hand drive, the simple approach is the 2.8 Cologne and 3.0 Essex V6 turbo engines, all left hand starter engines with the same small 138 bell housings, and a simultanoues 2-bbl 38 Solex or 38 Weber carb. Electronic ignition, and 5.5 to 8.5, with a quite large turbo.
135 to 188 hp, 2-bbl before turbo and after for the Turbo 2.8, 5.5 psi
142 to 230 hp, 2-bbl before turbo and after for the Turbo 3.0, 8.5 psi.
And look at how simple the exhast and hat was for the little Capri V6!
For specifics,
See viewtopic.php?f=22&t=68856
See viewtopic.php?f=22&t=67835
Most problems are based on the low 7.803" deck height 200 with high mount starter in early Ford X shell chassis. The guys who aren't having problems with turbo mounting are the low mount starter engines, and easier still are the 9.469" deck 250 engines which always have low mount starters. The exception is Georges cross flow, which has no carb on the right hand side, a 9.38" deck and the high mount starter isn't really in the way.
The ideal is this
In practice, high mount 200 engines are actually difficult to turbo within the confines of an X shell engine bay. Battery needs relocating, the turbo needs carefull placement, and if air conditioned, the A/C needs to be relocated and perhaps the alternator too. On 250 and low mount 200's, no thing much needs doing, especially if its in a Fox body or Bronco.
I advocate going to low mount 200 blocks and 250 engines, but if you have a high mount 200, you can simply take a Cologne V6 C3, C4 or C5 bellhousing and the 138 flexplate from the Fox C3, and bolt it to any early Explorer 5R55, C4 or C5 gearbox that can fit the Ranger/Bronco II trans. Just a .0625" alloy or steel plate to allow the V6 bolts to hook up to the stock 2.77 or 3.03 bolt patterns, and the starter is out of the way. An old 200 crank can be cut up to make a spacer to mount the flywheel further out, and some manual transmission bolts will work. The rest is just good turbo plumbing and taking advice from the carb guys who have done turbo swaps.
If you are highmount 200, then expect to need some extra tallent to get it together, but the guys like 66Sprint and others had turbo high mount Mustangs with simple J tubes, so it can be done!.
Once the turbo system gives a clear, well distributed shot to a carb in its stock location, you can then concentrate on the historically better 2-bbl carb turbo systems.Linc 200's and Does10's drag200stang and George are the go to posts to get your head around, cars with big turbos and lots of smarts. And some of them a running very radical cams and simple induction systems, only Does10s and George ended up going the EFI route. When the cam duration is increased for the Ford i6 turbo, it lookes after detonation issues, becasue the stock 200 and 250's are so conservatively timed.
Since most cars here are left hand drive, the simple approach is the 2.8 Cologne and 3.0 Essex V6 turbo engines, all left hand starter engines with the same small 138 bell housings, and a simultanoues 2-bbl 38 Solex or 38 Weber carb. Electronic ignition, and 5.5 to 8.5, with a quite large turbo.
135 to 188 hp, 2-bbl before turbo and after for the Turbo 2.8, 5.5 psi
142 to 230 hp, 2-bbl before turbo and after for the Turbo 3.0, 8.5 psi.
And look at how simple the exhast and hat was for the little Capri V6!
For specifics,
See viewtopic.php?f=22&t=68856
See viewtopic.php?f=22&t=67835
xctasy":91eehwra said:Take a leaf from Linc 200's and Does10's drag200stang and Georges book.
Lincs and Does10's/ Kelly's you know, but Georges DIY The Turbo Experiemnet is very special. George is a very smart IT guru who makes does specialist blue tooth applications for Holden and other car companies, and makes out he doesn't know much, but he started out many years ago on his journey to I6 Turbo grunt. His Cortina 250 turbo runs a stock engine block with a really strange, almost anti turbo high duration, high lift cam, waste spark igntion, cheap and nasty Wolf 3DEFI, roller rockers, forged pistons but still a stock block, crank and rods with nothing remotely flash asside, and it, um, Does 10's just like Kelly's does. Although its cross flow, its got similar head cfm port flows to any earlier modfifed log head, and less than a 2V 250 or Classic Inlines aluminum head, so you don't need to blow your budget with expensive parts.
See this viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5241
and most importantly, Georges car sold to a new owner, still doing 10's...
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=43235&p=518852#p518852
Since the early 80's, lots of US and Australian turbo punters have proven you can do 11 second 1/4 miles on blister packed bearing ring seal and gasketed I6's which are in good initial condition. If you control detonation, you can follow through the upgrades to ensure sucess. If you don't have forged rods, your probably okay, but long term, any post 1975 to 1983 200 cube engine core without foeged rods is a long term durabilty risk.
Mods
the ignition (Duraspark, DU1 or simialr update recurved to suit),
the fuel system with a direct mount 2-bbl,
a better cam for increased rev range
and the better later model head.
Follow the right turbo recomendations by Linc.
Note that A stock 200 sits at about 8 to 8.5:1 compression, has a low duration cam for a 4000 rpm power peak, and is the worlds moost undercarbed, and lowest flowing cylinder head around.
Just add a 41 thou thick Permaset/Monotorque composite head gasket like the 15 US dollar Appco AP630 gasket, not the stock steel 25 thou thick job, and that will drop your compression down to a safe 7 to 7.5:1,
Apply a later model head, a better cam and carb, and your good to go .
Plug for a direct mount 2-bbl 32/36 or 38 DG series Weber, and 8 or 9 pounds of boost, and follow Linc 200's set-up. He used a low mount 1983 X-code 3.3 engine, but if you'd like to use a T5 or C3 or Explorer 4 or 5 speed auto bellhousing, I have a kit that eliminates the right hand starter so you can nest the turbo right back down low like Linc did, and still keep your ancillaries in the stock side.
230 horsepower and 270 lb-ft isn't out of reach on a stock engine
That means a bolt on turbo without much effort.
Stock Ford 183 cubic inch, no changes except Duraspark Ignition, a carb hat, turbo and in that case, the engine came out with a DGAS 38 carb anyway. Its not hard to start with a better log head with direct mount 2-bbl and get about 140 hp and 170 lb-ft stock anyway. Most times you get the 120 cfm intake flow you need to create that horsepower. In my opinion, you'd have to use a higher duration aftermarket cam, then turbo it!
xctasy":91eehwra said:Examples? For 1979- 1986 blow throughs, the Weber DGAS 38 on the 1979 TVR 3000 (230 hp, or 90 hp up on the stock Ford of England Essex 60 degree 3 liter V6).
They had a Paxton Thunderbird/Gale Banks/BroadSpeed blow through carb design which was to put a box around a stock multiple barrel carb, and treat it like it was just a 60% bigger engine.
For example, just an 8.5 psi Holset turbo took a stock 2994 cc 142 hp at 5500 rpm and 172 lb-ft at 3000 rpm engine to a stunning 230 hp and 273 lb-ft. 61.9% power, 58.7% up on torque.
Zoom up to large and see http://www.flickr.com/photos/triggersca ... 674093521/
and http://www.flickr.com/photos/triggersca ... 674093557/
I ran this setup for awhile made a bunch of passes and sold it on ebay to move to something bigger. The person I sold it to ended up blowing their motor if I recall, I don't even remember who bought it. 
