Any advice on building a 200ci for a turbo?

Are you using arp rod and head bolts? I run 15psi of boost with a felpro head gasket with no problems so far. Just make sure your fuel and timing are dialed in correctly. Keep asking questions this forum has very knowledgeable people that are willing to help.
 
Timmy66":qt9nfaw3 said:
I am planing on running a Holley 2300 super sniper EFI system on the car I was wanting to know if I am going it the right direction if there are any suggestions or concerns and with all of these changes if anyone has a good idea of what boost could be run

You can only use the 4 bbl EFi..The Holley 2300 doesnt support a turbo.So you need a 4 bbl to 2 bbl adaptor to fit it.

Americans only think V8s, so all the USA adaptors arent spaced correctly for a direct mount and dont/ wont work.

See this link, its the 42 nd Redline Adaptor and other, the 53 rd adaptor down, from Hume Perfornance in Australia.

http://au.gotfreeshipping.com/store/hol ... ptor-plate

You have to get this free delivery 302 Cleveland 4v to 2v Carter Thermoquad to 350 Holley 2bbl adaptor and mount it upside down on your direct mount 2bbl modification. Then a 4bbl Square bore adaptor has to be added to convert it back to something the Holley EFi can use.

Two adaptors 89.95 + 69.95 and a direct mount modification, and the head has to be a later C9 big log head. Some of the 170 Mavericks had big log small chamber 52 cc heads, Ak Millers special pick of all early heads. Or any later nominal 60 to 62 cc big log head, with the integrated EGR E0 1980 to 1983 3.3 liter heads the best. Big log, big chamber, good sized valves, and bulletproof. They flow less than the best modified 170 Maverick and Comete heads from 1970 to 1971.
See the $89.95 adaptor at

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-5347 ... 2977205839


See the $69.95 adaptor at

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-5347 ... 3647098190

No concerns with that 4bbl system, but throttle body EFis are always a poor choice for any single 1 bbl intake head, despite both Power Nation and Richard Holdeners tests with adaptors for in line 292s.

Direct mounting the carb with a newly machined hole of larger dimensions is a mandatory first step, then add a 4bbl to 2bbl adaptor.

Again, Powernations recent 292 Chevy Turbo episode with Pat T and Mike G show how far things have improved with this Sniper system.

An intercooler might fit if you want some more assurance that 15 psi isnt going to kill something.

https://youtu.be/WfyofaN0j3g

Basic before turbo build is

https://youtu.be/hXp5dnAEjNU

The 292 is a non cross flow six. Its inlet and exhaust is on the drivers side. Here, the turbo guys did a Ford Mustang carb turbo and split the turbo from close to the header to a point on the opposite side.

No one ever made throttle body injection turbos, so Holleys Sniper is new territory. On a log head six, direct mount the carb. The single 2.2 sq inch hole has to become a 5.4 square inch 2 bbl Holley 500 cfm base. Push the magnifying glass Search icon, select user xctasy and partial match crosley Holley 500.


search.php?keywords=4412+Holley&terms=all&author=crosley&sc=1&sf=all&sr=posts&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

My posts on it have pictures.

search.php?keywords=crosley&terms=all&author=xctasy+&sc=1&sf=all&sr=posts&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search



His 1978 Fairmont headed Futura direct mount Holley 2bbl does low 15s and makes his 62 about 205 flywheel horsepower by my calcs.

Turbo has to go on the other side in my opinion, because the exhaust on the short deck 200 log head is very cramped and downturned and conjested with a starter motor, spring tower, and the battery and alternator making fabrication harder than just a j tube and a battery or alterntor relocation. If the turbo supply line is off a conventional refurbushed 2-1/4 inch outlet header tube, you can feed it through the back of the sump center hump, forward of the drag link,and that van be as easy as a 3" pipe welded into or onto the sump. Then exhaust and intake are kept apart, so heat soak from the turbo isnt such an issue.
 
67Straightsix":3ucweu5i said:
Are you using arp rod and head bolts? I run 15psi of boost with a felpro head gasket with no problems so far. Just make sure your fuel and timing are dialed in correctly. Keep asking questions this forum has very knowledgeable people that are willing to help.
Yes I did have arp rod studs installed and will be installing arp head studs as well and as I said earlier I have a copper head gasket I had custom made so I think the engine will handle it I just am trying to figure out compression so I’m sure all of my machine work correct
 
I’m going to talk with my machinist tomorrow just trying to get everything figured out so it can be run on pump gas and as suggested a water/methanol injection and preferably in one piece for a while at least sounds like the fuel system is also becoming an issue for boost
 
pmuller9":1x4jpthr said:
xctasy
You're looking at the Sniper 2300 instead of the Super Sniper 2300.

The Holley 2300 Super Sniper EFI system has a 2.5 bar MAP and does support turbocharging and timing control versus boost.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_sy ... ts/550-852

Holley also makes the Hall Effect distributor for the Ford 200 to trigger the Sniper system.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_sy ... ts/565-315
I did say Holley super sniper that’s the one I’ve been looking at it I saw Aaron cox on YouTube has a 200 turbo mustang that is the system he runs so it’s definitely possible
 
pmuller9":5vp4r8r3 said:
The 200 six can get away with higher compression than the big sixes and if you are using low boost 9.3 should work fine.

You will need a dial indicator and degree wheel to check the cam timing when you install the cam.

For now you can use a feeler gauge under a flat edge across the cylinder deck.
I know I’m stacking post but I did measure it with flat edge and a feeler gauge and I came up with 0.034 which I don’t think sounds right but I measured it several different times at different spots put in in TDC several time but that’s what I was consistently getting
 
Yeah, thats normal. Deck is 7.803 to 7.830 range with an average of 7.816.
Your deck is most likely 7.812.

Stroke is 3.126, 1.563 inches from the crank center at Top Dead Center.
rod is 4.715,
piston Compression Height is 1.500
Deck short fall is 0.034.

So 1.563+4.715+1.500 + 0.034 is 7.812.

Ford normally targets 1.536 for stock pistons, and a taller deck of 7.830 for deck, and 0.016 for short fall. Fords head gasket remained 22 thou ( 0.0220) and had a C9 preffix ( C9 = 1969, D8 = 1978, E1= 1981 etc), so Ford reduced the Compression Height on replacement pistons, and added deck height on blocks to ensure the compression ratio dropped below the advertised 8.4: 1 nominal figure from 1972 to 1983. Every year, the actual value and machining tollerences were changed as head castings and pistons and rods and crank casting number was changed. So the rebuild manuals and NHRA casting default figures changed often. Your engine came out in 1962 as a Fairlane engine, and ended up as a 1983 Fairmont/ LTD compact engine option. 21 years of parts, some shared with the 2.8 liter and 4.1 liter. ( 170/250) So its hard to be specific, easy to be general. From 1984, the old tooling from the Cleveland plant was used to make a 2.3 and later, the 86 to 1994 2.5 liter OHV fours, a cut down tall deck six cylinder Argentine 221 and US 250 based. 34 years of being cranked out of the same sausage machines gives you huge parts back-up. But norhing was "exactly" the same for 34 years.
 
Ok so today I’m going to talk either the machinist and get a better Idea on the compression other than that what are you concerns with the holly super sniper 2300 with an adapter is that ok or do I need to ask about getting the intake worked on
 
After talking wit the machinist he figured up 9.3 compression without milling the head which someone had said earlier he said he would still like to mill the head a few thousandths just to clean it up he he said even if the head was down to 50cc that puts it at 9.6 which he thought would be high but he would would still let it go at that and as long as he confident in it I trust it because he is the one that machined the entire motor
 
A 9.3 compression ratio is what I figured also.
A thin cleanup cut off the head would be good.
 
You are putting a lot of work into this build... Why are you are you wanting to use the 66 small dog log head...ford upgraded it for more power to deal with more acc. and heaver cars, in the later years...A member was giving away some nice large log heads, they are gone now but they can be found sometimes cheap.
Best to listen to P Muller he knows what he is talking about.
 
drag-200stang":1xf9apkq said:
You are putting a lot of work into this build... Why are you are you wanting to use the 66 small dog log head...ford upgraded it for more power to deal with more acc. and heaver cars, in the later years...A member was giving away some nice large log heads, they are gone now but they can be found sometimes cheap.
Best to listen to P Muller he knows what he is talking about.
My reason for using the 66 head is because it is what I had and when I started this build I had no idea it would go this far I was wanting to do pretty much a standard rebuild with an ebay turbo but my machinist said that the valve guides have already been installed and he has the new valves ordered he never seemed concerned about the head before and to turn back now I will have waisted a lot of money on the head so yeah I’m starting to get I should have upgraded but it’s a little late now
 
drag-200stang":78vp2bo6 said:
Best to listen to P Muller he knows what he is talking about.
Not always. I can't count the times I went back to edit something stupid I just posted. LOL
 
pmuller9":3031m0ke said:
drag-200stang":3031m0ke said:
Best to listen to P Muller he knows what he is talking about.
Not always. I can't count the times I went back to edit something stupid I just posted. LOL
I definitely believe you know these engines I also know my machinist does machine work for a living so I don’t know what to go with because I feel like any thing that gets clashed on I’m stepping on someone’s toes either way
 
That's a tough one. You don't want to come across as telling your machinist what to do as if he doesn't know what he is doing but you also don't want a finished product that doesn't work the way you want it to.
The best thing to do is have discussions with him by asking questions about a potential problem (act a little dumb) and try to steer towards an acceptable solution.
Don't worry about us here. We have steel toed shoes. We know you are listening and will try to come up with a solution even if things end up less than ideal.
 
pmuller9":1c2b605c said:
That's a tough one. You don't want to come across as telling your machinist what to do as if he doesn't know what he is doing but you also don't want a finished product that doesn't work the way you want it to.
The best thing to do is have discussions with him by asking questions about a potential problem (act a little dumb) and try to steer towards an acceptable solution.
Don't worry about us here. We have steel toed shoes. We know you are listening and will try to come up with a solution even if things end up less than ideal.
I guess the biggest thing is the 9.3 compression but as long as that is going to be ok I think it will be fine I also can get a thicker head gasket because Clark copper head gaskets now has the print for that head gasket I had made so all I would have to do is get it thicker that could help with any milling being the issue also after hearing the concerns of the adapter I will see if he can mill the intake for a direct mount of the Holley EFI or someone else if need be
 
You need to know the cam specs before you can really know what the compression ratio needs to be.
You should talk to Schneider about a cam.
Make sure you tell them that this is a turbocharged engine and you want power from 2000 rpm up to 5500 rpm and no higher.
Be prepared to tell them about modifications to the head.

Do you have the turbocharger?

How thick is the head gasket now?
 
Back
Top