going to buy the aluminum cylnder head.

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68_sixpeashooter
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going to buy the aluminum cylnder head.

Post #1 by 68_sixpeashooter » Thu Nov 29, 2012 1:34 pm

Hello everyone,

I've been on the hunt for a new cylinder head and I found a few but I think I'm just going for the aluminum cylinder head from classic inlines. I've heard good stuff about it. Its not even that expensive compared to cylinder heads on other websites.I'm just not sure how much of a horsepower gain I would be looking at. Anyone have any idea? I'm going to buy the d.u.I ignition, dual out headers, and the 2v weber 32/36 carb. Also I'm considering the dui Mini-VIP Voltage Booster. How much hp gains will I be able to see?

Thanks,
1968 mustang, 66 block 200 I6, D8 head with 2v conversion, headers, DSII ignition
C4 tranny

1982 Datsun 280zx- n/a 2.8 inline six

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bubba22349
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Re: going to buy the aluminum cylnder head.

Post #2 by bubba22349 » Fri Nov 30, 2012 6:34 pm

Of course it will depend on your parts combo and tuning skills but here are some dyno test results. Check the parts combos maybe there are some close to what you want to do! :nod:

http://www.classicinlines.com/DynoRoom.asp#D1A
A bad day Drag Racing is still better than a good day at work!

I am still hunting for a project car to build but with my current low budget it's not looking so good. My Ex- Fleet of Sixes these are all long gone! :bang: 1954 Customline 223 3 speed with O/D, 1963 Fairlane project drag car with BB6, 1977 Maverick 250 with C4, 1994 F-150 a 300 with 5 speed.

sefus
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Re: going to buy the aluminum cylnder head.

Post #3 by sefus » Mon Sep 09, 2013 4:59 pm

looking at the dyno run list, #4 (carb with Alu. Head, and #9 carb with Modified stock, are basically the same. Obviously there is more room for improvement with the aluminum head, but depending on what you want to do with the car vs what these motors are capable of... well two grand vs a couple(five) hundred in working over the stock head for the same gains... sorry, dont mean to criticize or rain on parades, just the first time Ive really paid attention to the side by side results.
68 Mustang Coupe family car from the dealership til now. 96k original miles.
200-C4, Duraspark, MSD, Holley, Spectre, Bilstien, Zip Ties, Bud Light.

170-3tree
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Re: going to buy the aluminum cylnder head.

Post #4 by 170-3tree » Mon Sep 09, 2013 6:03 pm

While I see your point, look at the differences in the builds .

The aluminum has a lighter cam, slightly smaller carb and a lower torque peak than the modified log. Given the log runs a c4 instead of a stick , which evens it out. The other huge difference is compression difference.

Not trying to argue constructive criticism, just shedding light on differences between the two.
63 Fairlane Sedan, 200 bored .030 over. Aluminium head. Autolite 2100 1.08. DUI ignition. 274/274-112* Hyd. 9.5:1 compression. ARP bottom end. 2.77 3 on the tree(until she blows I guess) 8 inch 3.55 rear 5 lug all standard on fairlane.
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65-coupe
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Re: going to buy the aluminum cylnder head.

Post #5 by 65-coupe » Mon Sep 09, 2013 7:56 pm

Pick up the October issue of Mustang Monthly and you can see my build and dyno results. I am going to check the advancement of the cam. Also install a 4bbl Holley in the next few weeks. I should be able to pick up a good amount more. Mike and the guy from Clay Smith cams sayed I could pick up another 20-50 HP just my the cam. That is if it is advanced more then 4 degrees. We also did a dyno run after my install of a T5 it should be in another issue soon. It maybe advanced too much more then 4 degrees. If you have any question let me know. I would be glad to help and with what I have learned.
1965 Mustang coupe, Poppy red with black interior, I6, DUI, CI alum head ported, 264/264 110 Clay Smith cam, 1.65 roller rockers, Autolite 2100 300CFM, Lokar pedals and throttle calbe, Spectre air intake. Shelby mod to front suspension, CI headers stainless with Jet-Hot ceramic coating, CI Stainless 2" impostor dual exhaust, 17x8 Coys C-67 wheels,

sefus
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Re: going to buy the aluminum cylnder head.

Post #6 by sefus » Tue Sep 10, 2013 2:10 pm

Oh I know the Aluminum head will run better, and has way more potential to make better power across the board, I just havent seen yet where 150hp is better than 170hp when the difference is thousands of dollars.
68 Mustang Coupe family car from the dealership til now. 96k original miles.
200-C4, Duraspark, MSD, Holley, Spectre, Bilstien, Zip Ties, Bud Light.

Ks65Mustang
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Re: going to buy the aluminum cylnder head.

Post #7 by Ks65Mustang » Fri Oct 11, 2013 9:04 pm

This is the same dilemma I am dealing with. Originally I was going to do the head conversion, posted a thread looking for a machine shop to do the conversion, as Classic Inline apparently is not doing them for the time being. I received 3 - 4 post stating it was cheaper to do the aluminum cylinder head swap and got more HP.

Well to do the aluminum head swap, for a machined complete head ready to mount with the intake manifold would run $2150. I finally found a shop around KC that will mill the head and braise the adapter on as they don't believe the 4 bolt holes are strong enough mounts. To have that done is $400.
Or I could buy a Oz head with intake for $1200.00 ready to mount. After reading some of the issues with carb problems that some have had getting the carb to perform correctly, I am leaning towards the head conversion. Reading one post, the Aluminum Head Swapper when through 3 carbs to find the one that performed right on his swap. I don;t know about you but I cannot afford to eat a couple of extra carbs.

I will have to check out the spec further, I really think Head Conversion is going to be my path.

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