All Small Six My 65, 200 inline rebuild

[goldfinger1957]

The Top Loaders are also called a 3.03 those 3 speeds and 4 speeds are very strong plus they are also syncrow in 1st gear lots more fun shifting than the older Transmissions. They normally are used only on the 1966 & 67 up duel bolt patteren blocks. But if yourare able to find a 1964 / 65 Ford Econoline Bell housing these were a specially made bell used on the 144 for the new for 1964 3.03 Trans and it will then bolt right up to your 1965 Block with the flywheel & clutch that you already have as well as use your 3 on the tree shift linkage too. Another choice is to use a T5 5.0 Mustang Trans with an Adapter plate then you can bolt that up using your bell housing and everthing else too.

From what I've read so far, the T5 is certainly the way to go. A freshly rebuilt T5 will run me 2k without too much modifications. I'll try this , I'm assuming 2.77 tranny until it breaks or I justify the upgrade. It would be nice to put this shifter on the floor rather than the column but that's for another day.

 

[bubba22349]

If you take it easy the 2.77 will last for a while. Make sure that all the column shifter linkage is adjusted properly and in good condition there are most of the stock repair parts available to fix them. If the some of the hard parts (shift arms & shift rods) are worn from lots of use you can weld them up and make them work great again. I stated racing a 1956 F100 many years ago I worked on that shift linkage so I could shift it fast not much in money just my time later on I got a Hurst floor shifter which was quiet a bit better but then I started to break the clutch pressure plate pivots and a transmission second gear once in awhile.

 

[goldfinger1957]

If you take it easy the 2.77 will last for awhile. Make sure that all the colum shifter linkage is adjusted properly and in good condition there are most of the stock repair parts to fix them. If the some the hard parts (shift arms & or shift rods) are worn from lots of use you can weld them up and make them work great again. I stated racing a 1956 F100 many years ago I worked on that shift linkage so I could shift it fast not much in money just my time later on I got a Hurst floor shifter which was quiet a bit better but than I started to break a transmission gear once in awhile.

Yes I noticed it was a little sloppy but its pretty simple to adjust. The 2.77 are pretty sturdy so I'll continue with it until it goes and then we'll see the direction I want to take with it.

 

[bubba22349]

I went back and found the camshaft specs for the camshaft that you are using so that changes my previous info some. Your Dynamic CR would be more like a 10.15 to 1 and cranking pressure would be 222.48 so that's better. This is at sea level so that might also affect it some in your area.

 

[goldfinger1957]

Yes, the 264/274 cam seems to be popular street & strip cam that i thought would be a good fit. Thats why I needed the 2v carb setup like the Weber 32/36 conversion. Also the DUI distributor will not function correctly with a 2v setup.

 

[chad]

"...up to your 1965 Block with the..."
he said '64 block, no? Means the "dizzy hole" is the smaller.

 

[78_200_C4]

You can enlarge the intake bore opening without removing the head. Stuff some rags and grease in the log then enlarge it with a carbide bit on a die grinder. Vacuum out the intake bore before you remove the rags.
On the small log head the bore hole goes straight down an inch. A lot of material can be removed from the bottom of the bore so that the air-fuel mixture doesn't have to make a 90 degree turn. An aluminum carb adapter can be enlarged to match the enlarged intake bore. Use a 2 flute router bit in a small router.