Another Turbo 200 nears completion....

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Linc's 200

Post #151 by Linc's 200 » Mon Aug 15, 2005 6:36 pm

Old_Dad wrote:You could easy have a cracked piston or something along those lines.


We'll see once I yank them out.

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Post #152 by MustangSix » Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:05 pm

I've seen that before when the electrode on a plug broke off. Looks like something very small got into the engine.
Jack Collins

Linc's 200

Post #153 by Linc's 200 » Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:15 pm

MustangSix wrote:I've seen that before when the electrode on a plug broke off. Looks like something very small got into the engine.


It is not.
You have to look at it VERY CLOSELY.

Maybe you can't tell from the pictures, but they are not indented by pushing metal down, they are little craters like Chicken Pox.

Like little tiny miniature land mines exploded on the piston top.

And they are round. Perfectly round.

Based on what I have seen in my life from foreign object damage on pistons (always like bird pecks, NEVER perfectly round) I would bet that they are not from foreign objects.

Linc's 200

Post #154 by Linc's 200 » Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:17 pm

Besides, foreign object damage to pistons always manifests itself on the surface of the head as well. (bits crushed between head and piston)

There is nothing like that on the head. The carbon layer is undisturbed.

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Post #155 by addo » Tue Aug 16, 2005 4:46 am

Would it be like cavitation, but from the turbulence in combustion?

Linc's 200

Post #156 by Linc's 200 » Tue Aug 16, 2005 6:13 am

addo wrote:Would it be like cavitation, but from the turbulence in combustion?


I think that small amounts of impurities in the aluminum "boiled off"......

or the "critical temperature" of small amounts of something in the aluminum was reached. Just like little tiny landmines.

Maybe when detonation occurs, the "physical dimensional size" of the explosion is very, very small in relation to the area of the piston face.....perhaps each "rattle" I heard (in QUICK succession) was each small crater being formed??

Hard to say without a lot of scientific measuring equipment, but the solution is easy. I will swap in forged pistons and try to be a little more conservative on how quickly I work up in boost levels and timing.

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Post #157 by drag-200stang » Wed Aug 17, 2005 11:52 pm

Linc's,

I looked at your 2 barrel manifold drawing. I have 2 concerns. One, I think it will pick up additional heat from your turbo manifold and second, the reason why blow through's work better than draw through's is that the carb is in the original factory-designed location for good fuel distribution. The log is not that. Does 10's style 2-barrel is alot better than the 1-barrel, a shorter distance to end cylinders. That's why I favor a tri-power set up with 1:1 linkage. Bolt on adapters can be fabed easily for almost nothing. Doesn't even have to be precision. I know the tripower seems complex. I would try this myself but I'd have to relocate the engine and trans forward 4", new mounts and drive shaft so EFI it is. Also, I wouldn't deck the block more than just to make it flat. The deck is thin enough as is. The bores distort quite a bit. If checked with a torque plate you'd be surprised. They say deck height isn't that critical with a turbo engine - something about plenty of squish and faster burn of the denser mixture. I think you'll be in the 11's before you know it. Just let that short stroke, 7 main rev like it was meant to. Have fun!
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

Linc's 200

Post #158 by Linc's 200 » Thu Aug 18, 2005 1:00 pm

drag-200stang wrote:Linc's,

1) I looked at your 2 barrel manifold drawing....I think it will pick up additional heat from your turbo manifold

2) and second, the reason why blow through's work better than draw through's is that the carb is in the original factory-designed location for good fuel distribution. The log is not that. Does 10's style 2-barrel is alot better than the 1-barrel, a shorter distance to end cylinders.

3) That's why I favor a tri-power set up with 1:1 linkage.

4) Also, I wouldn't deck the block more than just to make it flat. The deck is thin enough as is. The bores distort quite a bit. If checked with a torque plate you'd be surprised.

5) They say deck height isn't that critical with a turbo engine - something about plenty of squish and faster burn of the denser mixture.

6)I think you'll be in the 11's before you know it. Just let that short stroke, 7 main rev like it was meant to. Have fun!

=========================================

1) The tubes would all be wrapped with some sort of insulation, either Thermo-Tec or something used for steam pipes, or whatever. That was just a rough sketch of an idea. Exhaust would be wrapped, also, and probably even some sort of heat shield employed to reduce radiated heat.

A while back, Holley udes to have a "Balance tube" across the back two cylinders on their Street Dominator, I think. I was planning to just use 1" tubing, so my intake would have more "balance" and not like a dual plane.

I have a LOT of E0xx heads, I just had two more engines GIVEN to me (for free) this week!!!!! So, if any of you have any idea how curious I am , there will be a LOT of different head testing about to happen!

2) A direct mount 2 bbl like Does 10's will be one head configuration tested in the future. Since I already know it "has been done before" I will try something different first, and resort to that head/intake design later.

3) Tri-Power is GREAT!! But I don't have three small carbs. If I could find three GOOD carbs, I would consider it. Until then all I find it junk. And they have to be tunable, with solid floats and easily obtainable jets and modifiable power vlaves and such. Not so easy anymore, is it???

The stock 1946 carb I am using has those:
A) uses std holly jets
B) power valve is easy to modify
C) had a solid float
D) After you cut off all the crap you don't need, it is a very simple carb, and seems to work REALLY well after being modified. Listening to that video (well, I remember being in the car for the run, also) that engine is making a ton of power through that 1 bbl carb. Would three 1946's be TOO MUCH?? I have been looking for a spare and can't find any cheap ones.

Ira (rotoryota) and Bryan Sharer (bsharer) on www.turbomustangs.com have been in the 8's and 9's (IN THE 1/4!) running stock holley 650's and 600's!!

OBVIOUSLY, you don't want to run a carb too large. I think a blowthrough works way better with a carb too small than too large (and speaking from experience here, I have more potential yet to tap from my 1 bbl) I have read a lot of scary stories on turbo mustangs about guys trying to blow through a carb that is too large. The fuel/air mixture ratio just goes everywhere. Smaller is better in this case.

4) Thanks for that advice, I gotta remember that these are thinwall casting blocks I have. Good thing the ones I have are std bore with no ridge.

About that torque plate - - - - who has one? I have never heard of one being available.

Is there one I can rent and have shipped to my machinist??
Did you have to make yours??

5) I have been reading alot about that lately. Apparantly, you are right - - - boosted engines don't follow the "squish" or "quench" rules liek N/A engines. LOTS and LOTS of turbulence already occurs in the chamber without having to add more.

Checkout this thread, pretty interesting:
http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/index.php?topic=45705

6) I am going to have to pull some rabbits out of a hat to pull 11.99's with the current combo. I think I can get into the very high 12's with the stock cam, stock pistons, and stock 1 bbl carb - - I just have to tune the living daylights out of it (and I don't always have a lot of free time) and the new trans/3000 converter that are in the works will help a whole LOT.


When I ordered my head studs from FSPP, I also ordered a 214*/214* on 112* LC cam for it, But I am going to wait for a while before I swap it in. Also have forged pistons, and probably some reworked C3xx rods in the future. Maybe I should worry a liitle more about the stock 1982 rods????

From what I hear about rods failing in turbo engines, they fail from comression (being pushed on) not pulled apart, like N/A engines do.
Last edited by Linc's 200 on Tue Sep 19, 2006 5:13 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post #159 by drag-200stang » Fri Aug 19, 2005 11:01 pm

Linc's,

As you fab up different induction set ups, think of your air/fuel mixture with air being the roadrunner and fuel being Wiley coyote. When the roadrunner takes off and gets to the end of the road, he stops and turns. The coyote catches up but can't stop and turn and goes off the cliff. They need to be together to crash and burn efficiently.

I understand what you're saying about too large of a carb and blow through. Is there some kind of formula for figuring out what the right proportion of carb cfm to engine size is for blow through? Would 360 degree manifolds be different than 180? I would think if an engine was responsive and ran well NA with a certain size carb and a turbo was added it would be OK.

I made my own torque plate from 1 3/4" thick mild steel from my local steel supplier. I had it flame cut out using a head gasket as a template and then blanchard ground. I used an old head as a guide to drill the head bolts. I use spacers with the studs that would be used. A plate the same thickness as the head would be better but more expensive and more work. The plate should be slightly larger than the head gasket and the cylinder bore holes should be round and centered, not like the gasket. Or the felts on some hones may "censored" the hone. The holes can be holesawed out if you drill 4 - 1/4" holes so the chips can be washed away. Maybe we can get Mike (FSPP) to make one and rent it out to people more local. They can be very heavy and shipping is pricey.

I wouldn't worry about your rods until you cam it up.

P.S. Your new cam under boost should have about 300 rpm higher usable rev range than what's advertised NA, if everything else is in order.

Jim
66 Mustang Coupe
200 turbo w/lenco 4-spd
stock adj. rockers, stock timing set, ARP studs
best 1/4 mile ET 9.85/best mph 139 on 8 lbs progressing to 15 lbs boost
Went 9's when 10's was fast.

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Post #160 by mugsy » Sat Aug 20, 2005 9:48 am

Cliffy rents a torque plate. I looked last year during my rebuild, and they were the only ones (commercially) I found .

Keep up the good work, this is one of the best posts here!!

tanx
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Found over on Neons.org:
"whats a tranny tunnel?"
"total area is 142 cubic inches"

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Post #161 by 66Sprint6 » Sat Aug 20, 2005 12:08 pm

OK, dumb question, but what does a torque plate do?
Matt
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Linc's 200

Post #162 by Linc's 200 » Sat Aug 20, 2005 1:08 pm

66Sprint6 wrote:OK, dumb question, but what does a torque plate do?
Matt


A torque plate is a thick metal plate that gets bolted to the top of the block. It has large holes where the cylinders are where you can run the boring bar down and/or cylinder hone through.

As stiff as a block is, the cylinder walls distort when the head is bolted down. The torque plate is like a "fake" cylinder head, that when bolted to the top of the block, will make sure that all machine work is done with a simulated cylinder head in place.

That way, the cylinders have been machined in their "properly distorted" place. When you pull the torque plate off, they will ditort a bit, but when the head is bolted on the engine, ready to run, thre cylinders are pulled back to twhere they were when getting machined with the torque plate in place.

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Post #163 by 66Sprint6 » Sat Aug 20, 2005 4:17 pm

Ahhhh... so its used for the boring process itself! Thanks for clearing that up, I like learnin new stuff
Matt
"ITS A SIX!!!!!"

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Linc's 200

Post #164 by Linc's 200 » Sat Aug 20, 2005 10:59 pm

drag-200stang wrote:1) As you fab up different induction set ups......... They need to be together to crash and burn efficiently.

2) Is there some kind of formula for figuring out what the right proportion of carb cfm to engine size is for blow through?

3) I would think if an engine was responsive and ran well NA with a certain size carb and a turbo was added it would be OK.

4) I wouldn't worry about your rods until you cam it up.

5) Your new cam under boost should have about 300 rpm higher usable rev range than what's advertised NA, if everything else is in order.


Hi Jim,

1) I'm using 100LL AvGas as a fuel, and that stuff vaporizes INSTANTANEOUSLY, especially with as much heat as there is in that intake log. I don't think there are any fuel droplets anywhere in the intake as it runs. I can be wrong, but AvGas isn't anyhting like car gas.

2) Formula?? The only guys running 750 carbs on 350ish cube motors are running over 1000 HP., and those carbs are super well prepped by specialty shops for about $800. I figure if a 350 chevy with a stock re-jetted 650 DP Holley can run 8's in the quarter, then my 200 won't ever need anything larger than about 250-300-350 cfm. I am going to try a 1.08 motorcraft 2 bbl and probably also a 1.21 motorcraft 2 bbl. I already have both. According to info from here, a 1.21 is about the same as a Holley 350.

3) The carb set-up running OK on a N/A car, if a little too large, will get super crazy over 8-10 psi.

It has something to do with the pressure drop through the venturis.....or lack of it.

I think it is like this: If the carb is too large, boost builds up in the intake, and above the carb, and even though pressure is high, flow through the venturis is (relatively) low. High pressure but low flow and the metering goes away at the venturi.

One guy (actually running a chevy, lots of them on turbomustangs) on the turbo mustangs board was trying to get (I.I.R.C....) a Holley 850 HP series carb that ran great on his N/A 350 to run under boost. He didn't have the $$$$$ to buy a new carb, so he was trying to use the one he already had.

He kept going WAAAY lean under boost, even with the largest jets in it that Holley makes (I think 120's).

The way he fixed it was to have it sent off to....I think CSU? carb shop, and they installed custom downleg annular venturis that were VERY thick, and brought the CFM's down to around 700. That fixed the problem.

I think it also helps to have more consistent metering when the pressure drop through the venturi is very high.....it makes a lot of suction between the venturi and the float bowl. That extra suction helps cover up any flow inadequacies in the metering circuit.

The venturi in my 1 bbl is I think 1-1/8" at the smallest point. I think I can honestly run a 12.99......through a single 1-1/8" venturi!!

I know I need to re-jet a little higher...N/A cars like to run about 12:1 fuel mixture while turbo cars are supposed to be 11.5:1 - down to around 11:1

I was running like 12.1:1 - 12.2:1 on that run......just a bit lean. That didn't help with the detonation either!! I plan to make up for that with alcohol injection, though.


One other thing while on this topic.....a lot of guys use very small "precision piano wire" to partially block the air bleeds. This trick is only needed on some cars and/or set-ups. If you run into a condition where the car wants to lean out at high boost, partially blocking the main air bleeds with a very tiny piece of wire will helpp richen the fuel mixture. You can also drill and tap the air bleeds to accept really TINY jets. In the past, I have cleaned the brass air bleed (or main jet) well, soldered shut, and drilled to the size I wanted. It kind of redneck way to do it, but it works.

4) I have heard the cast rods in post - '74 engines are pretty weak compared to the forged ones. What makes you think I shouldn't be too worried? because I am keeping the RPM's low right now?

5) Interesting thing about raising the RPM range about 300 RPM.
That sounds about right. I have heard that a cam will still dictate the RPM power range of the engine, whether N/A or boosted, it won't change very much.

Linc's 200

Post #165 by Linc's 200 » Tue Aug 30, 2005 9:13 am

Update:

I'm trying to get it back together. I found two pistons with broken ring lands. The engine is back in the car and needs to get the peripherals hooked up. Then it will be time to try to overboost it again, but I will be adding alchol injection, for sure.

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Post #166 by Funky Cricket » Fri Sep 02, 2005 4:49 pm

I haven't been around the board much since the body of my 80 capri went away and i had to let her go (still running though the last time I saw it the drivers door was wired onto it.. *sigh* I just should have yanked the drivetrain and put it in another car) but this has to be one of the greasted threads in car forum history.

you are updating regulary with success and failure. trying unique ideas and doing it all by hand and ingenuity. must say, i just wasted a good hour a work (opps.. hope no one noticed) ready this thread and can't wait to read more. hope you can get out there a few more times before the weather goes away.

I miss the inlines and have been lurking for a bit but felt that this was worthy of my posting.

GOOD JOB! keep it up. we are all interested in the potential of one of fords most under rated engines.

Linc's 200

Post #167 by Linc's 200 » Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:07 pm

Funky Cricket wrote: this has to be one of the greasted threads in car forum history.

you are updating regulary with success and failure. trying unique ideas and doing it all by hand and ingenuity.

GOOD JOB! keep it up.


THANKS Cricket. I know I am bound to make a few mistakes and break some parts along the way.
It's all good, though - - I am learning a lot and having a LOT of fun with it!!

I have noticed some of the guys saying "It will never work" have been pretty quiet lately. I just wish I had more time to mess with it. I went into this knowing I was DEFINITELY going to break some stuff, but so far it has held together a lot better than I thought it ever would have.

I might get the chance to take it to the track one more time (maybe twice??) before I leave Sept 19th to head to Siberia for two weeks.

Teppo (80stang) from Finland sent me this in a PM:

80Stang wrote:Linc, you had a lot of power in your engine and good traction. We had our track & drag weekend on Sat/Sun, and you had to have had a pretty tweaked bent 8 to drive 13.87.

Compare to this: I got 17.3 @ 122kmh @ dynoed 152hp on the flywheel. You've got some 250+...


That might be close.
It is hard to say until I get a good, hard CLEAN run.

The fact that I am over 200 HP with a 1 bbl carb gives me a warm fuzzy inside :wink:

I'lll have to make 250 HP to the rear wheels / 300 Flywheel to make a 12.99 happen. I think I can do it. I wonder if the stock "cast" rods will handle it.

I went into this thinking I don't care if I blow it up, but now I do care!
I am having too much fun!

At least I have plenty of engines.........Word of mouth of my car has been spreading around the central Texas area like wildfire, and I have found a whole bunch of folks willing to "donate their 200 sixes to the cause"!
I think I am up to six engines available now, including the ones I started out with.

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Post #168 by XFlow_Fairlane » Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:27 pm

ah yes but hte faster you get you know the less engines you will have on hand :P check out my FREE bonnet on my thread!!
Rule: Torque = Fun , Turbo's make Torque

Linc's 200

Post #169 by Linc's 200 » Mon Sep 05, 2005 11:33 pm

62fairlane170 wrote:but the faster you get, the less engines you will have on hand :P !!


I know, I never thought engine #1 would have made it this far, but it has.

It is nice, because it has let me do a lot of testing and tuning before it gave up the ghost. Only damage was a few cracked piston ring lands on two slugs. The only other thing I replaced was the SUPER slack timing chain... everything else is going back together exactly like it was before (oh yeah, plus head studs).

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Post #170 by XFlow_Fairlane » Mon Sep 05, 2005 11:42 pm

so just putting spares back together then? you shoudl start porting a head in your little spare time and get #1 modded head going
Rule: Torque = Fun , Turbo's make Torque

Linc's 200

Post #171 by Linc's 200 » Tue Sep 06, 2005 6:36 am

I'm not done pushing the stock piston/ stock rod/ stock head/ stock carb/ stock cam/ stock exhaust manifold combo just yet.

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Post #172 by Funky Cricket » Wed Sep 07, 2005 4:56 pm

the great thing is you are doing alot of foot work for someone that might want to use the stock engine, and just add the turbo.

its not hard to find a t3/t4 on ebay for 200 or so bucks, get the rebuilt kit for it, and mock up the turbo assembly your self, and you have a "fairly" cheap engine that is tough as nails that can hang with a 302 at half the weight. not bad.. not bad at all...

Linc's 200

Post #173 by Linc's 200 » Wed Sep 07, 2005 6:42 pm

Funky Cricket wrote:the great thing is... you have a "fairly" cheap engine that is tough as nails that can hang with a 302 at half the weight. not bad.. not bad at all...


Yeah, and there are a whole lot of 302's that can just barely run 15's that would be in for a surprise........

I don't like to pick on other muscle car drivers,

I like to go hunting for rice!



Once I get the tune set up a bit, "Engine version 2.0" will probably end up in my nicer '82 car and the '84 in the video will be set out to pasture.

Old_Dad

Post #174 by Old_Dad » Wed Sep 07, 2005 11:46 pm

I've been using regular fuel injectors for my water/methanol setup it works pretty slick, no piddling with soleniod shut offs and crap like that, just get a high pressure pump some line and a/some hobbs pressure switchs if you want to make a staged setup and you have a pretty simple deal.
It really makes a huge difference in intake temperatures.

Linc's 200

Post #175 by Linc's 200 » Thu Sep 08, 2005 12:27 am

1) I'll be spraying 91% Isopropyl from Wal-mart

2) I have 2 stainless honeywell solenoids, plus some Toyota "cold start" injectors, for a total of five possible stages. But, I need more boost switches. I'll just be one or two stages for now.

3) I have a Shur-Flo 1.5 GPM, 100 psi pump I'll be using.

I STILL need to get my C4 built! I know a 3000 RPM converter behind this engine will REALLY help this car leave the line!

Old_Dad

Post #176 by Old_Dad » Fri Sep 09, 2005 1:14 am

Never had much uesh for slushboxes.

Linc's 200

Post #177 by Linc's 200 » Fri Sep 09, 2005 6:27 am

Old_Dad wrote:Never had much uesh for slushboxes.


A C4 isn't a slushbox if you know what you are doing when you build it. It can shift faster than I can if done right. The Streetfighter torque converter isn't junk either. When it is all set up right, it would be near impossible to go faster with a manual trans.

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Post #178 by Funky Cricket » Fri Sep 09, 2005 4:32 pm

i had my c4 rebuilt on my 80 capri, (inline of course), stock stall, but with a doggie doo kit and that thing shifted FAST, it was a bit on the aggressive side for daily driving but man on man, i like the squeak when it shifted into second when i had the pedal down..

Linc's 200

Post #179 by Linc's 200 » Fri Sep 09, 2005 4:49 pm

Funky Cricket wrote:but with a camel excrement kit.


Haha! You mispelled "shift" and look where it got you!! :D

I forgot that a fellow I know (I know him more for his Harley builds than for his transmissions) does a lot of side work, and I was talking to him today about it. He has the low down and is going to walk me through the rebuild. I hope the track stays open for a while, I'd like to see what difference a good transmission and converter makes!

Old_Dad

Post #180 by Old_Dad » Sat Sep 10, 2005 11:31 pm

Camel excrement, I like that. I have no real problem with automatic transmissions, just no real use for them. No matter what or how much you do to one, as far as I'm concerned is you're taking the fun out of driving your car and turning it into something that requires steering and drooling.
I'm pretty old fashioned though, and stuck in my ways even. *g*

Linc's 200

Post #181 by Linc's 200 » Sun Sep 11, 2005 2:39 am

Old_Dad wrote: as far as I'm concerned is you're taking the fun out of driving your car


When your car is doing 85 mph in the 1/8th mile like mine, things are happening so fast you won't have time to think of shifting.

FoMoGo

Post #182 by FoMoGo » Sun Sep 11, 2005 2:57 pm

One note about auto trannies in turbo cars.
Turbo cars LOVE automatics.
You build boost off the line without a 2 step.
You hold boost the entire run, no lifting for shifts... if you have a lenco... shhh ;)

I have been building turbo cars since 90ish.
Mostly 2.3 fords, a few others for friends tho.
I hadnt really concidered the smaller ford inline engines... but they are now on my "interested" list... next to the 300 and 3.8... altho the 3.8 isnt high on the list due to the head gasket issues.

My hat is off to all you guys taking the road less traveled.
Now... back to scheming on the 351 twin turbo 84 bird. :D


Jim

Linc's 200

Post #183 by Linc's 200 » Sun Sep 11, 2005 3:53 pm

FoMoGo wrote:One note about auto trannies in turbo cars.
Turbo cars LOVE automatics......You hold boost the entire run, no lifting for shifts...


The 1-2 shift in my car, if not so soft, would be sheer evil.

As soon as second gear grabs and the motor lugs down, it feels like torque doubles!!

FoMoGo

Post #184 by FoMoGo » Sun Sep 11, 2005 6:12 pm

Linc's 200 wrote:The 1-2 shift in my car, if not so soft, would be sheer evil.

As soon as second gear grabs and the motor lugs down, it feels like torque doubles!!

It drops the engine down into the tq peak... and the pull from tq peak to power peak is a fun ride. ;)


Jim

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Post #185 by Funky Cricket » Tue Sep 13, 2005 3:20 pm

hee hee.. camel.. thats what I get for being the great typist that I am.

FoMoGo, I have seen the 351 TT in a t bird before, can't find the link, but the thing was FAST..

yah. get back to the track already and give us some times. :wink:

Linc's 200

Post #186 by Linc's 200 » Tue Sep 13, 2005 7:05 pm

Funky Cricket wrote:FoMoGo, I have seen the 351 TT in a t bird before, can't find the link, but the thing was FAST..


Are you thinking of www.toohighpsi.com ?

Budget twin 351W T-bird :
http://www.toohighpsi.com/BudgetTT/BudgetTT.htm

Linc's 200

Post #187 by Linc's 200 » Tue Sep 13, 2005 7:10 pm

Funky Cricket wrote:yah. get back to the track already and give us some times. :wink:



Got it together (THNX to the help from friend Joe Fuqua) and ran Saturday night with alcohol injection, I had too much timing but still pulled off a 14.25 @ 98 MPH!!!!!!!! (2.40 second 60' time)

I was trying to dial in the combo when the 100 psi Shur-Flo pump popped a line.....more to come later..... Trying to run big numbers on pump gas with alcohol injection

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Post #188 by kirkallen143 » Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:37 am

Now what did that old sticker used to say..."I rather eat worms than drive an automatic!" Have a good one.

Kirk ' 73 bronco
ps. still, waiting on the head rebuild

Linc's 200

Post #189 by Linc's 200 » Wed Sep 14, 2005 9:03 am

enough with the automatics already.... I'd like to keep personal opinions like that out of my thread, if you don't mind.



According to online calculators,
my 98 MPH trap speed is good for a little over 250 RWHP,
and around 300 FWHP.

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Post #190 by 66Sprint6 » Wed Sep 14, 2005 11:15 am

Boy howdy, get that thing back to the track as much as you can...and let us know the progress. Good to see you finally got it back runnin! How much boost are you safely runnin on Alky by chance?
Matt
"ITS A SIX!!!!!"

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Linc's 200

Post #191 by Linc's 200 » Wed Sep 14, 2005 12:52 pm

I leave for Siberia in five days, and I won't be back to the track until after I come back and build the new trans and 3000 converter combo and swap it in.

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Post #192 by Funky Cricket » Wed Sep 14, 2005 4:07 pm

yes, those were both of the links that I was thinking of. specifically the budget one.

14! come on.. get that lauch better!!! heheh.. j/k. man. what are we gunna do with no updates.. guess i will just stop reading the internet.. nothing good on it now.. :P

still a great time though. what boost were you at?

Linc's 200

Post #193 by Linc's 200 » Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:35 pm

I was up to 18 psi on pump gas, spraying a fair amount of alcohol and detonating a little bit. I took some timing out and went back to the line, and when I did my burnout the pressure side on the alcohol pump split a hose.

Next time..........

Linc's 200

Post #194 by Linc's 200 » Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:40 pm

Funky Cricket wrote:14! come on.. get that lauch better!!!


Yeah, a better 60 foot alone wouldv've made it a 13 second run.....

You guys are getting greedy on me! :wink:

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I66coupe
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Post #195 by I66coupe » Sun Sep 18, 2005 9:01 pm

Great thread! I'm learning a lot here.

I'm planning to to do a turbo for my car. Street driving, not dragging though. I sure won't need to go so far with my set up but this info is wonderful.

My engine is a stock, 42K mile '66 200, T5 tranny and a 7.25 rear that will be replaced by an 8". Plan to use a 250 head to drop the compression and for the better breathing, and a Motorcraft 2100.

I'm looking to run with the V8s without getting nuts about the boost. I'm just now starting my research.
Rande "The Tachyon"
N4ZYV
1966 I6 Coupe.
1965 Jeep Gladiator
1937 International Pickup
1937 Chevy pickup

"If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck"

Linc's 200

Post #196 by Linc's 200 » Mon Sep 19, 2005 2:37 pm

I haven't had too much criticism (that I have noticed) since I started running 13's!! - - - and trapping 98 MPH!

2tonfalcon wrote:Things take time to make the right combo, but by spring I see him in the 11s easily.


WOW! that's optimistic!! Thanks! :D

I have only been to the track twice ( I don't count the first time out since I couldn't even make it to the end of the 1/8th mile that trip!!!! ) and I think I would make more progress if I could get the time to go play more often, but oh well......

I leave for Siberia TOMORROW!! I get back Oct 2nd. As soon as I get back I'll get the C4 finished and swapped in with the 3000 RPM converter, and hope to make some good runs with it before the track closes for the year. If I get low 13's I will be ECSTATIC.

If I manage to hit 12.99 - - - - from a stock 200 - - - - with a 1 bbl carb
- - - - I'll be doing backflips down the dragstrip!!!

I'll take this winter to build a forged bottom end shortblock ( 'cept the crank )
and then have it ready when (or IF!) the stock 200 expires.

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Post #197 by Stubby » Mon Sep 19, 2005 5:16 pm

Be sure to get a video, I want to see that :lol: (The back flips that is :lol: )

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Post #198 by Funky Cricket » Fri Sep 23, 2005 4:03 pm

i'll take the one with the beard and biceps like Arnold!!! :twisted:

"I swim for russia in olympics" hehe j/k

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