From what I've read on the moparts.com forum, there hasn't been much trouble removing (or just painting over) the cheap paint if it has been thinned properly. I thinned about 50/50 paint to mineral spirits. This made each layer, well, pretty darned thin! Each layer dries completely between coats when the paint is thin enough. It took 5 coats to get full coverage, and then 2 more for good measure. If you were to get impatient with the amount of coats it takes to get full coverage and roll the rustoleum on unthinned, you'd have a mess on your hands.
Unthinned rustoleum would probably take several weeks, per coat, to effectively dry, if at all. This is where all the warnings from pro paint guys are true. Unthinned, the stuff will gum and ball up when sanded, and just be a disaster in general. Unthinned, It would still come off with chemical strippers, no problem, but jeez what a mess.
Thinned and dry, you can sand it right off with no gumming or balling up.
The process and paint appealed to me for several reasons:
It's cheap
It requires minimal skill
There is almost no masking
No special equipment
When I hit cones (and I will), I can touch up any dings, very easily.
Just make sure you thin the paint, and let it get good and dry between coats and sanding. This time of year, getting two coats a day to dry will be iffy. It is what it is, a low budget paint job requiring very little money or equipment, and not much skill, but a lot of time and patience... and sanding.
I'm quite happy with my results now. We'll see what it looks like in a few years. I'm sure Rustoleum white will still be available in 2010, though.
Rick(wrench)