So I have been wanting to turbo my truck and I was wondering if I could do it with some parts I have. I put a cheap Amazon 2150 clone on the truck and was wondering if I could use in a blow thru application. I have a very low budget and don't have a ton of money to spend on a 2300 carb or an offy intake and carb. So is it possible to use my 2150 in a blow thru application? or Do i need to find a cheap 2300 to do this? Thanks
All Big Six 2150 Motorcraft Blow thru
- Thread starter turbof150
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- carbeurators project turbo
Relates to all big sixes
It has a power valve circuit that you can modify for more fuel similar to the 2300 and you will need to keep the fuel pressure about 6 psi above the boost pressure so the fuel pressure must be boost referenced.
Make sure the float is Nitrophyl instead of brass.
How much boost do you plan to run?
Make sure the float is Nitrophyl instead of brass.
How much boost do you plan to run?
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I was planning on running around 15 to 20 psi, but idk if its too much to run thru the carb. Even if i dont hit that i just need to up it a little bit bc its gutless as it sits now. I do plan on putting a cam in it, probably a 284 from crower along with chevy valve springs. But im still wondering if i should skip the cam and put that money into an offy intake
So how would i go about modifying the carb to increase fuel pressure? Sorry if its a dumb question but im still new to turboing things
So how would i go about modifying the carb to increase fuel pressure? Sorry if its a dumb question but im still new to turboing things
InlineDave87
Famous Member
There is an episode with david friburger where he modifies a normal carb to make it work as a blow thru for pretty cheap... i dont remember if i saw it on roadkill or on engine masters... ive been looking myself for it... im struggling to get my carb to free up so i may just have to get a new one anyways... at least it only cost me $25 for the core... if all else holley does make a blow thru 2 barrel carb
For 15 to 20 psi of boost you would need an electric fuel pump with a boost referenced pressure regulator.
It's tough to get a carburetor to supply the correct Air/Fuel ratio over a wide range of boost.
The Holley Sniper and Super Sniper are designed just for that reason.
What year engine and truck do you have?
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InlineDave87
Famous Member
Hope this helps
Ok, so i will add those to the parts list. Are there cheaper alternatives to the sniper systems that work just as well? I looked into them but they are a little out of my price range. I figured i could just use what i currently have but if i need to upgrade i could save a little more money to put into it. I just wanted to see how far i could go with my 2150 lol.
Its a 79 f150 with what i believe to be the original 300 six. It has probably about 119k on the entire truck. Has an np435 and is 4x4
Its a 79 f150 with what i believe to be the original 300 six. It has probably about 119k on the entire truck. Has an np435 and is 4x4
If you add an air/fuel ratio meter you can safely modify and tune your 2150 to work over some range of boost.
You may need to drill out the power valve passages to flow more fuel.
Make sure the float is Nitrophyl.
You will need an electric fuel pump and boost reference fuel pressure regulator with a return line back to the gas tank.
You will also need an ignition system that will retard the timing one degree for each psi of boost.
If you are going to run over 8 psi of boost you will need an intercooler and/or Water/Methanol injection to make a stock 79 300 live any length of time.
You may need to drill out the power valve passages to flow more fuel.
Make sure the float is Nitrophyl.
You will need an electric fuel pump and boost reference fuel pressure regulator with a return line back to the gas tank.
You will also need an ignition system that will retard the timing one degree for each psi of boost.
If you are going to run over 8 psi of boost you will need an intercooler and/or Water/Methanol injection to make a stock 79 300 live any length of time.
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Ok, thank you for the info. I am going to pull the engine and put in things like high volume oil pump and do some work to the oil pan for the turbo oil drain. I just want to open it to check the crank and everything just because and incase it needs a rebuild even though it runs fine. But i may add a cam and valve springs too while im at it.
Welcome to the Forum.
There are several examples where a 300 with stock internals have been run successfully with 15-20 lbs of boost.
"sick6" is the main advocate for bolting a turbo system on to a long block that has only had a cam and valve spring change.
He presently has a compound supercharger/turbocharger on a stock long block with only a cam and valve spring change and is working well so far.
Do you have a 300 six project?
Show me the several examples that are lasting on 20psi on 100% stock internals. Not a drag engine either that's not a judge of reliability. A cam and valve spring change is not stock internals now is it? I said in my comment things you would need to change and springs and cam were on that list. I do have a 300 project and have built several turbo, supercharged, nitrous and na engines so I'm not just some rando.
I wasn't replying to you as a challenge. I simply was letting you know what has been done with the least amount of modifications.
Yes a cam and valve springs are internal changes so I don't have any examples of 100% stock 240/300 engines running 15 to 20 lbs of boost.
I personally don't build engines with power adders using stock or unmodified components and you will find that with the exception of "sick6" no one else here does either.
This thread was strictly about the carburetor. We didn't want to go off track with advice on the engine build yet.
Anyway it is good to have you on board.
We are always looking for a new perspective
Can you tell us more about your 300 project or projects on a new thread?
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Sorry I wasn't trying to come off as a dick. I'll do a thread when I collect some more parts for it. It's about more than just the carb. He outlined his ideas for a build and I worry he doesn't have the best ideas. From the sounds of things he's running a 2bbl adapter on the stock intake which is not exactly a great idea. Again not trying to be dick just offering advise here. He should start with getting a real intake, and maybe setting his boost levels a little more conservative lol
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No problem. I fully understand. We all want to see an engine project succeed.
The worst scenario is when someone proceeds without advice and has a failure. Then they ask for help to fix the problem after the damage has been done.
The original poster (OP) was undecided about using the Offenhauser intake so I wasn't worried about addressing that yet.
It been 8 months since the OPs last post so we don't know anything about decisions or progress.
What I needed the OP to understand is that it takes a lot of work to modify a N/A carb to run on the street and get proper air/fuel ratios with intake manifold pressures ranging from a cruising vacuum to 20 psi of boost.
In this case a power valve must be used to be able to get lean enough part throttle for above idle operation and be able to supply large amount a fuel when under full boost.
The Power Valve passages need to be drilled out and it is recommended to modify the circuit to use the power valve restrictors to be able to fine tune at WOT.
The fuel pressure also needs to be boost pressure + 7 for the carb. If the boost is at 20 psi then the fuel pressure needs to be 27 psi.
That means an electric fuel pump will be needed with a boost referenced fuel regulator with a return line to the tank.
In order to get the tuning correct an air/fuel ratio meter needs to be used.
Then the OP will need an ignition system that can retard the timing as boost increase, typically 1 degree for each lb of manifold pressure.
The Holley Super Sniper 2300 which appears to be expensive up front takes care of all the above including the ignition timing.
Seeing that an electric fuel pump needs to be used in a carb application as well as a Sniper, the Sniper is a good deal.
Yes A forged piston is highly recommended. The pre EFI stock cast piston skirts break off into the oil pan under N/A conditions.
Detonation at high boost levels will break the upper ring lands off and/or punch a hole through the top of a cast piston
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