AC, alternator and power steering brackets for 223.
- Thread starter garrilla
- Start date
looks good 
Daves55Courier
Well-known member
In 1957 and later year 223 engines, the front right side of the engine casting was redesigned to include two mounting bosses for 3/8" N.C. bolts. The bosses were placed one above the other and a few inches apart. I never saw a '57 or later 223 that had anything bolted to those, but my guess was that they could have been used for A/C compressor mounting.
I actually have a factory add-on crankshaft pully that came off of a '59 223 that was used for the factory power steering. The pump was mounted way down low on the left side and piped up to a remote fluid reservoir. I could not see how they mounted it. I have a '58 223 and there is one in-used bolt hole at the left front side that might have been used for the lower ps pump brace, but I could not see how they mounted an adjustable stabilizer for the pump unless they used a longer bolt on the front exhaust manifold?
Is there enough room to unscrew the ps reservoir cap with your arrangement? looks really close to the alternator. Can you get the bottom radiator hose on the water pump? Is there room to get the vacuum line on the distrib vacuum advance can? I guess you are going to mount the ignition coil in an alternate location? Your brackets look really nice, but I would coat them with cold galvanizing compound at the very least so they wont rust.
I actually have a factory add-on crankshaft pully that came off of a '59 223 that was used for the factory power steering. The pump was mounted way down low on the left side and piped up to a remote fluid reservoir. I could not see how they mounted it. I have a '58 223 and there is one in-used bolt hole at the left front side that might have been used for the lower ps pump brace, but I could not see how they mounted an adjustable stabilizer for the pump unless they used a longer bolt on the front exhaust manifold?
Is there enough room to unscrew the ps reservoir cap with your arrangement? looks really close to the alternator. Can you get the bottom radiator hose on the water pump? Is there room to get the vacuum line on the distrib vacuum advance can? I guess you are going to mount the ignition coil in an alternate location? Your brackets look really nice, but I would coat them with cold galvanizing compound at the very least so they wont rust.
garrilla
Active member
Daves55Courier":1g5bpmq1 said:
There's a couple of inches room for the PS cap. I've had it all mocked up and everything fits well. I found heater hoses with a 90* bend molded in for hose from the water pump. The coil will mount in the original spot. I'll post a few more pictures so you can see the details. I'm going to sand blast and paint all of the brackets.
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Daves55Courier
Well-known member
Oh, I see, now you are using that bottom hole for a stabilizer for the heavy end of the compressor. For a minute there, I was kinda scared that all that weight was cantilevered off those two little coil mounting bolts way back there. And I realize the belt is going to pull toward the engine, but still, it seemed like it needed more support. You know what would be great, is if you could have gotten another bolt there at the front in line with those two coil mounting bolts thru that long steel bar. There is a mounting boss on the head up there, but the factory did not drill and tap that boss. It should be okay with that bottom support I think.
Daves55Courier
Well-known member
I see you are using the little 54/55/56 water pump instead of the 57/58/59 pump which has a backplate and impeller chamber that sticks out the side. You probably would not have been able to mount the PS pump and alternator on that side if the 59 pump was there. So then I guess you drilled out the water bypass hole in the front of the engine block and tapped it for a little pipe plug ?
garrilla
Active member
Daves55Courier":3oghinpv said:
The pump is a duplicate of the one that was on the engine. It was looking pretty shabby so decided to replace it now rather than later. The motor isn't original to the 59 Ranchero and I've not been able to figure out what year it is. Valve cover gasket was for a 61 > 64 and it fit and my parts guy has been really patient about helping me get the right parts.
I'm not following your question about drilling out the water bypass and plugging it. The water pump has 3 bolt holes, a water passage hole and an impeller that sticks out into the engine block.
If you can post the Head and Blocks casting / design numbers and the date code I can help you narrow down the years of your engines parts. Good luck
garrilla
Active member
bubba22349":7rfgkgfn said:If you can post the Head and Blocks casting / design numbers and the date code I can help you narrow down the years of your engines parts. Good luck
Thanks for the offer! The only numbers I've seen so far are on the block drivers side lower right. Is that the area to look?
Yes these numbers and letters will look something like this starting about late 1958 or. 1959 Ford changed their Design numbering system going with with a B then C in the next year change these are fallowed by a number as an in below example for an Ford engine block decode. Prior to 1959 the letters could look like the his EBP as an example of a 1954 223 Block.
B9AE-6015-AA decodes as
B = 1950
9 = year so = 1959
A = the Car line the part was designed for = in this case a full size Ford car
E = the Ford Engineering Department so this was for the Engine line
6015 = Fords generic number that denotes an Engine Block
AA= denotes that the part was redesigned, improved, revised
Because it came out of a Ford car from the late 1950's and is an inline six it's a 223 engine.
The head number decodes the same with the exception that the number is (5090) is Fords generic number for a head and might be original to that short block. To know for sure you will need to find the Casting date codes for both the block and the head. It's looks like a small tag with a screw head on each end it will have a number a letter and another one or two numbers. With that code you can determine the exact day Ford cast up each part in the foundry.
With engine swaps though sometimes you may also need to use the part that fits the year of the car model's chassis rather than the engine unless you also mod the chassis to fit and work with the newer parts. In the case of the 223 engines there is great interchangeability over its years of use. So if you can post some pictures some of the other parts your using can maybe help you ID them too. I suggest that you also make a binder type note book with years and part numbers of all your parts as you ID to refer too. This can save you lots of time when chasing parts. Good luck
B9AE-6015-AA decodes as
B = 1950
9 = year so = 1959
A = the Car line the part was designed for = in this case a full size Ford car
E = the Ford Engineering Department so this was for the Engine line
6015 = Fords generic number that denotes an Engine Block
AA= denotes that the part was redesigned, improved, revised
Because it came out of a Ford car from the late 1950's and is an inline six it's a 223 engine.
The head number decodes the same with the exception that the number is (5090) is Fords generic number for a head and might be original to that short block. To know for sure you will need to find the Casting date codes for both the block and the head. It's looks like a small tag with a screw head on each end it will have a number a letter and another one or two numbers. With that code you can determine the exact day Ford cast up each part in the foundry.
With engine swaps though sometimes you may also need to use the part that fits the year of the car model's chassis rather than the engine unless you also mod the chassis to fit and work with the newer parts. In the case of the 223 engines there is great interchangeability over its years of use. So if you can post some pictures some of the other parts your using can maybe help you ID them too. I suggest that you also make a binder type note book with years and part numbers of all your parts as you ID to refer too. This can save you lots of time when chasing parts. Good luck
garrilla
Active member
bubba22349":3myigaz2 said:If you can post the Head and Blocks casting / design numbers and the date code I can help you narrow down the years of your engines parts. Good luck
I've got some pics of the numbers on my engine. First pic is the only numbers I could find on the head and they were under the valve cover. Second pick are the numbers that are on the block drivers side lower right. Third pic is of a tag on drivers side low and left. The other pics are of the engine different views.
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The first one is easy decodes as the head being cast at the Ford foundry on January 17, 1963 and making it near the end of production of the 223's. I can't make out the numbers and such in the second picture, the other block numbers probally are up under the exhaust manafold or in the indents along the oil pan rails. The third picture is of an aftermarket engine rebuilders tag can't help much with that, but it should give you the details of sizes of the internal rotating assembly. Depending on the code that company used the cranks Rods & Mains "A " may mean that they are .010 / .010 under size, can't read all the numbers on the bore size looks like 3.80? Good luck
