Crustang to Mustang
Well-known member
If I can't get Maverick mounts for my 250ci, could I use adjustable Windsor mounts? Just to be clear, this is going in a '66 Mustang.
250ci Alternatives for Maverick Mounts?
- Thread starter Crustang to Mustang
- Start date
just thinkin' - the 250 is close dimensionally to the 200, the 200 mounts may also be a close fit and an adaptable option.
.
.
... mentioned because I used 200 engine mounts for a 250 in a '61 Comet.
.
250 block is @ 3/4" wider and 2" taller deck than 200. 250 Mounts simply need widening @ 3/8" on each side . ( 61 had issues with 250/ center tie rod ).
.
Later 'mounts' are different but re-drilled the early 200 rubber 'engine mount' for a 250 in a '61 Comet. - I did "Pin' the rubber mounts with grade 8 bolts for safety under torque ...
.
.
.
... mentioned because I used 200 engine mounts for a 250 in a '61 Comet.
.
250 block is @ 3/4" wider and 2" taller deck than 200. 250 Mounts simply need widening @ 3/8" on each side . ( 61 had issues with 250/ center tie rod ).
.
Later 'mounts' are different but re-drilled the early 200 rubber 'engine mount' for a 250 in a '61 Comet. - I did "Pin' the rubber mounts with grade 8 bolts for safety under torque ...
.
Here is what I ended up doing with mine when I put a 250 in my 66 convertible. The engine mount was the most time-consuming issue to resolve. In the end, I used the stock perches (the part that attaches to the frame), the stock mount/isolator pieces that attach to the 200 engine, and a couple of pieces of heavy steel to act as lowering blocks.
I drilled a hole in each of the isolator brackets between the holes that were already in there. I also drilled 4 holes in the steel spacer, using the stock isolator holes as a template. Then I welded a bolt to the spacer on the side that would be facing the engine.
Now I attached the spacer bar to the bottom hole on the block using a button head bolt to clear the isolator. Next attach the isolator assembly to the stud created by welding the bolt to the spacer bar. Thread a bolt through the middle hole of the isolator/spacer into the top mounting hole in the block. Then bolt the top hole of the isolator assembly to the top hole of the spacer bar.
EDIT TO ADD: I'm using the stock large log head, the stock Carter RBS carb, and a stock air cleaner from a 71 Mustang 250 I6. I sourced the air cleaner from eBay, and you should be able to use a unit from a 70-73 Mustang, Maverick or Comet with the 4.1 L engine. It all fits nicely under the stock hood with room to spare. The oil pan also clears the crossmember and the steering linkage, but I did have to space my front swaybar "U" clamps down a bit to clear everything.
I drilled a hole in each of the isolator brackets between the holes that were already in there. I also drilled 4 holes in the steel spacer, using the stock isolator holes as a template. Then I welded a bolt to the spacer on the side that would be facing the engine.
Now I attached the spacer bar to the bottom hole on the block using a button head bolt to clear the isolator. Next attach the isolator assembly to the stud created by welding the bolt to the spacer bar. Thread a bolt through the middle hole of the isolator/spacer into the top mounting hole in the block. Then bolt the top hole of the isolator assembly to the top hole of the spacer bar.
EDIT TO ADD: I'm using the stock large log head, the stock Carter RBS carb, and a stock air cleaner from a 71 Mustang 250 I6. I sourced the air cleaner from eBay, and you should be able to use a unit from a 70-73 Mustang, Maverick or Comet with the 4.1 L engine. It all fits nicely under the stock hood with room to spare. The oil pan also clears the crossmember and the steering linkage, but I did have to space my front swaybar "U" clamps down a bit to clear everything.
Last edited:
Similar threads
