Gary Stubbs (Stubby) has had some interesting discussion with me through PM's I thought I would share it here. Stubby's questions and comments are bold, and my answers below each one.
Concerning using a manual trans....
1)
I was thinking that you had to load the engine to build boost.
With an MSD 2 step (wired with a clutch switch), you can use a rev limiting chip at a lower RPM, like 3000, on the line.
The MSD holds RPMs down by cutting spark. All that excess fuel and air burns in the exhaust, building GREAT boost on the line.
The throttle is wide open, the engine banging and rapping away terribly at 3000 and the boost is up. When you let out the clutch, the MSD two-step switches over to the other RPM chip you have selected (mine is 6000 currently in the MSD 6AL with no 2 step)
All of this is assuming I can get the Tremec 3550 trans installed, and the flywheel
: is the big obstacle stopping me there.
I haven't decided whether I want to modify a stock 5.0 flywheel by:
a) redrilling crank holes and making neutral balance (I'm not too keen on the idea) or
b) getting a custom flywheel, which costs $$$$ I don't want to spend right now.
Having done all that, would need some serious upgrades to new slicks and maybe suspension tuning. If you see the video on page three of the thread, when I drop it into gear from neutral I have a fair amount of tire spin. I would have to fix that problem before going faster, or work on a softer launch. Getting more power to hook up would be the best idea.
2)
a) I also thought about optimizing the timing and mixture for the bottom end and retarding when boost comes on.
b) I think I saw steel wheels in one pic, maybe lighter wheels for better acceleration.
I did that. I recurved the distributor so I could get max initial advance and VERY LITTLE centrifugal advance. That's what got me that 13.59 at 103 run. There is still some room to play with it, but it is darn close.
This car has a lot of bottom end torque, believe it or not. Lighting up those 10" wide Hooter's Cup slicks is NO problem. I'll take it up against most any other automatic powered 200 out there. Maybe Mustang Geezer would get me off the line, but I would catch him QUICK! I wonder what his 60 foot times are.... I wonder what a lot of 200 powered cars' 60 foot times are....
Bottom end torque is a big problem with the brakes I have, since I can't get it to hold on the line!!
With my foot on the brakes and the parking brake pulled, I can get it to stall around 2600 RPM before building any boost, so the torque is there (sort of).
As far as the wheels, the little 14's up front on chrome modulars are pretty dang liight.
It would take some expensive Weld wheels and "skinnies" (3.5") to get much lighter.
3)
Lots of similar ideas keep popping into and out of my head. Most of them cost large amounts of money for small gains and don't really have anything to do with the engine. It seems you have found the wall and it will take some creative thinking to get the ETs down without removing the restrictions in the induction and exhaust system.
This project has been inspirational and fun. For that I would like to say thanks. Gary Stubbs
That is always the problem - you reach a point where small gains cost large amounts.
NO, thanks to all of those who keep pushing me to keep the project going! The "experimenter" within me has been having a blast with this! And thanks to all those who offer ideas, and I am glad this project has been informative and entertaining to many others as well.
I am still not much over $1000 total for the project. I think I should swap everything over to my black '82 (nicer condition) and maybe see if Car Craft wants to write a blurb about it. A few years ago David Freiburger (working for Hot Rod) did a 440 swap into a Dart and ran a corrected high 12 for $2000. I am sure I'll hit 12's for less than $2000 pretty easily.
More to come....!
Linc