All Small Six Autolite 1100 power valve

This relates to all small sixes

iSense67

Active member
1967 Bronco 170 inline six with autolite carb manual choke

Last weekend I rebuilt my carburetor as I have had issues with a jerking, power failure, and back fire after the bronco is driven and warmed up. That said after the install I drive it and it seemed fine but I then had the same issue. So I am thinking it’s one of two issues and would be interested in anyone’s experience.

1. When I rebuilt the carb I thoroughly cleaned it and over all it was surprisingly in good shape. The one issue I couldn’t solve is I noticed the power valve sometimes sticks. So I cleaned it the best I could as the kit directions said don’t replace. When it’s perfectly centered it bounces up and down as it should. If you look at the photo below you can see it trends to move tub the side and stick so I centered out before reinstalling. That said if I pushed it all the way down it also sticks even when centered. It seemed to get stuck on the metal area where the bend slot opening is. So I am wondering if this is my issue that puts sticking? If it is sticking would it cause the shaking and power failure I mentioned? If this odd the issue I watched on mikes carb how to remove the plug and clean it properly which I can do once I find a plug lol

2. If the carb isn’t the issue do you think my problem is the fuel pump? If so can I replace it with a non vacuum pump or do I need the stock vacuum model. That said I do not have a vaccum wiper washer as I replaced it with an electric? The cost difference between the two pumps is almost double.

This is the vacuum version:

This is a cheaper electric one and can I use this as a replacement and if so how do I modify to make it work?


As background beside the above in my effort to solve my issue I already did the following;

1. Changed the plugs and the spark wires are pretty new
2. Replaced the ignition coil
3. Replaced the condenser and the points looked clean so I left that alone
4. Inspected the distributor and it looked clean
5. Replaced the main fuel line as I found a kink
6. The fuel tank was brand new a year ago and that looks great.
7. Did an over all inspection of the vacuums and everything looks fine but I don’t have a gauge so didn’t formally confirm each one
One
8. The bronco starts up easily, idles and drives perfect for a 15 minutes to an hour and then it slowly starts to jerk, hesitate, jerks more, loses power and then I cost to the side and it restarts immediately and then I can drive again. It never completely dies it line it gets it’s breath back and is normal. Then it will act up again.
9. All the ground areas seem to be fine but I don’t know all of them to be certain.

Its maddening and I would be really interested in anyone’s thoughts and help. 79B22BF2-9E92-4CB6-AB36-9EFB3F59C497.jpeg
 

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This is inside the distributor after I changed the condenser. If you see something off let me know..z
 

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I can see at least two maybe three things in the distributor that need some attention first is that the condenser wire has a large bare section next to the Points Connection (i.e., the insulation is missing for some reason). Number two the distributor lead wire going to the Coil doesn't have a grommet where it goes through the distributor body which in time will cause it to short out on the distributor body. Number three this one I can't see well at that angle, but the ground wire looks like it is touching the points connection, if it is touching just loosen up the ground wire screw and turn it enough so there will be some clearance between them. One other thing to check is if the distributors point plate has a good ground i.e., the ground wire going from the points to the lower section of the distributor body with both mounting screws being clean and tight. check that the Vacuum Advance Canister on the Distributor holds a Vacuum. Check the Carburetor's throttle shaft on the linkage side for looseness it is common that they will leak vacuum there. Best of luck
 
"3. Replaced the condenser and the points looked clean so I left that alone"
Replace the points as this is the most common failure point.
If the points "looked good to you" most likely the condenser was good.
An over or under spec. condenser can be visually detected by the condition of the points.
Metal to transfer from one of the points to the other point will indicate an over or under spec. condenser.
Under or over capacitance of a condenser can be determined by which point + or - has a pit or a metal transfer build up.
 
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I can see at least two maybe three things in the distributor that need some attention first is that the condenser wire has a large bare section next to the Points Connection (i.e., the insulation is missing for some reason). Number two the distributor lead wire going to the Coil doesn't have a grommet where it goes through the distributor body which in time will cause it to short out on the distributor body. Number three this one I can't see well at that angle, but the ground wire looks like it is touching the points connection, if it is touching just loosen up the ground wire screw and turn it enough so there will be some clearance between them. One other thing to check is if the distributors point plate has a good ground i.e., the ground wire going from the points to the lower section of the distributor body with both mounting screws being clean and tight. check that the Vacuum Advance Canister on the Distributor holds a Vacuum. Check the Carburetor's throttle shaft on the linkage side for looseness it is common that they will leak vacuum there. Best of luck
Thank you I will do all the above this has become my puzzle to solve!
 
On a Falcon Ranchero or wagon the left rear tire throws up dirt-mud that can plug the fuel tank vent tube.
This metal vent tube goes up high into the quarter panel then back down.
A Bronco could be the same I don't know.
Mikes Carburetor: Autolite 1100 power valve sticking fix
Vent pipe plugged.JPG
 
On a Falcon Ranchero or wagon the left rear tire throws up dirt-mud that can plug the fuel tank vent tube.
This metal vent tube goes up high into the quarter panel then back down.
A Bronco could be the same I don't know.
Mikes Carburetor: Autolite 1100 power valve sticking fix
View attachment 10959
It’s interesting about the carb as I did notice it was sticking when I rebuilt the carb. I am going to get an expansion plug and will clean the power valve from the other side. Also will look for the vent ty
 
The best way is to do a simple Fuel Volume test with carb's fuel line going into a safe container by cranking the engine over 30 to 60 seconds (pull the Coil Wire so it won't start). Then also do a Fuel Pressure test.
 
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