Draw Through Turbo Setup
- Thread starter StarDiero75
- Start date
Excuse the schematics. Hope the convey the idea.
In my opinion, mix the best parts of GM's Buick and Pontiac turbo position with the easiest parts of Fords Fox turbo carbs.
Grab two used 2.3 Carb turbos, and make two adaptors to fit two 1.19 2-bbl Holley or 2-bbl 1.23 Autolite carbs, and space them apart just enough to supply fuel air mix to just shy of No3 and 4 cylinders.
The way the iron turbo wheel has its inlet and outlet exhaust pipes should clear your Chero's spring tower brace for the back turbo.
You need a 0.63 AR ratio on the Turbo wheel, it should spool fine on a 3.3 liter engine with 1.19/1.23 2-bbl's.
This way, you get two big carbs and the adaptors can be made with aluminum tooling plate and a TIG welder, copying the OEM Mustang/Capri carb 2.3 six bolt hard points, only shifting the 2bbl adaptor more on center with the turbo.
Your plus points are that you've got complete supply of spares, they are carbon sealed, O ring sealed, and they will make 265 to 350 hp with ease on 6 to 9 pounds of boost. And no fuel air distribution problems at those pressures. But only if you use two.
The rear most turbo can be left with the Compressor impellor pointing to Cylinder 4.
The front most turbo can have the casing "clocked" 240 degrees or 300 degrees.
(It has Six bolts so it cannot be clocked 270 degrees)
In my opinion, mix the best parts of GM's Buick and Pontiac turbo position with the easiest parts of Fords Fox turbo carbs.
Grab two used 2.3 Carb turbos, and make two adaptors to fit two 1.19 2-bbl Holley or 2-bbl 1.23 Autolite carbs, and space them apart just enough to supply fuel air mix to just shy of No3 and 4 cylinders.
The way the iron turbo wheel has its inlet and outlet exhaust pipes should clear your Chero's spring tower brace for the back turbo.
You need a 0.63 AR ratio on the Turbo wheel, it should spool fine on a 3.3 liter engine with 1.19/1.23 2-bbl's.
This way, you get two big carbs and the adaptors can be made with aluminum tooling plate and a TIG welder, copying the OEM Mustang/Capri carb 2.3 six bolt hard points, only shifting the 2bbl adaptor more on center with the turbo.
Your plus points are that you've got complete supply of spares, they are carbon sealed, O ring sealed, and they will make 265 to 350 hp with ease on 6 to 9 pounds of boost. And no fuel air distribution problems at those pressures. But only if you use two.
The rear most turbo can be left with the Compressor impellor pointing to Cylinder 4.
The front most turbo can have the casing "clocked" 240 degrees or 300 degrees.
(It has Six bolts so it cannot be clocked 270 degrees)
xctasy":1i9g4xlk said:Excuse the schematics. Hope the convey the idea.
In my opinion, mix the best parts of GM's Buick and Pontiac turbo position with the easiest parts of Fords Fox turbo carbs.
Grab two used 2.3 Carb turbos, and make two adaptors to fit two 1.19 2-bbl Holley or 2-bbl 1.23 Autolite carbs, and space them apart just enough to supply fuel air mix to just shy of No3 and 4 cylinders.
The way the iron turbo wheel has its inlet and outlet exhaust pipes should clear your Chero's spring tower brace for the back turbo.
You need a 0.63 AR ratio on the Turbo wheel, it should spool fine on a 3.3 liter engine with 1.19/1.23 2-bbl's.
This way, you get two big carbs and the adaptors can be made with aluminum tooling plate and a TIG welder, copying the OEM Mustang/Capri carb 2.3 six bolt hard points, only shifting the 2bbl adaptor more on center with the turbo.
Your plus points are that you've got complete supply of spares, they are carbon sealed, O ring sealed, and they will make 265 to 350 hp with ease on 6 to 9 pounds of boost. And no fuel air distribution problems at those pressures. But only if you use two.
The rear most turbo can be left with the Compressor impellor pointing to Cylinder 4.
The front most turbo can have the casing "clocked" 240 degrees or 300 degrees.
(It has Six bolts so it cannot be clocked 270 degrees)
Wow I love this idea. The manifold I got can definitely be adapted to fit 2 turbos. Would you do a draw through or blow through on this setup? Space wise really wouldn't be a problem with the stock towers?? I'm thinking it might be too big. Also, the Ranchero may not get this setup. I'm thinking about leaving the Ranchero with the 2V and headers and building this for something else like a 65 Falcon 2door Wagon or coupe. I really like your idea here. So what model numbers are those 2.3 Ford Turbos? I'm having a hell a time with a google search what they are.
Also, originally i was kinda thinking about trying to do 3 intake runners off a single turbo to blow into the cast intake like the offy setup, 3x1. Not necessarily using the offy setup but spaced apart like it. But the use of 2 2bbls and 2 turbos sounds more sick. My only worry with all that is space. Even doing blow through the piping is gonna get crazy. With twin turbos, are there 2 intercoolers or one that they both blow into? Or is this all draw through and i don't worry about any of that except space?
Will heat shields be necessary? I know turbos get spooky hot and last thing i need is percolation or vapor lock from hot turbos.
Using the 8.5" 1965 bell block, am I gonna be forced to use the C4 to hold up to the power its gonna put out?
Ignition module wise, this will have to be a DSII with an MSD module right? I'm only used to the old points, HEI and DUI so far. But I know the DSII is the way to go for control.
Will I need a custom oil pump to supply the turbos with all the extra oil? Where do I get one? As far as I've seen, I've only seen the Melling stock pump. I'm betting I'll need something that moves a lot more volume for this.
Static Compression ratio, what kind am i looking at? What kind of cam should I be looking for? High duration/short lift, high lift/short duration? I'm unfamiliar what is good with a turbo.
Rear gears, am i looking at something in the 3.5-3.73 range or more like 3-3.25? Will this require something like a 9 inch, or will an 8 inch suffice?
Will the stock crank be up to this? If its not, i don't believe I can just go buy a forged crank right? I can't remember if these cranks are cast or forged. This is a big concern of mine.
I know this is a lot but I know you know you're stuff and you'll be able to help out with a lot of this. I don't know what I'm doing when it comes to turbo stuff so I'll need lots of advice and direction to help reach my goal.
Thanks a lot,
Ryan
Draw through all the way. With old parts. Carter fuel pump. And some real work on the two carb adaptors.
Two Byrds in the Bush is better than one they can see you have in hand.
I have lost faith in the concept of just buying new stuff, when extra things then have to go with extra things. The USA is a glorious dumpster of anything you need barn find serendipity. You MUST network and ask, and be informed, and never back down until you get something that solves a problem without creating others.
Draw throughs are flow biased, and dangerous to operated above 9 to 12 psi if the fuel isn't directed to each cylinder with 80% flow efficiency for each cylinder. But if you use two 0.48 AR exhaust T032's from an old 2.3 carb turbo, you'll do fine. But you've got a few things to learn on the 6 bolt location and intake arrangement. You have to ask Powerband a few placement questions, and network to make this work great
Tell anyone its a generic type 1 sealed TO32 "B" with an early variation of Fords T03-60. My friend from Downer NZ has a 1981 Turbo Trans Am BF Goodrich with factory WS6 rims, BFG 295/50 15 tires and a factory turbo down here.
Same crap.
Counterwally wants to know car(which he will tell you THE COMPUTER SAYS is wrong),
turbo name (which he will tell you THE COMPUTER SAYS is wrong),
VIN number (which he will argue over) etc etc etc...
Fords OEM part is supplied by DSO, so top two fields are blank.
Use these numbers. If anyone asks for a VIN number, use the 1981 VIN 1FABP10B4CF109967 Mustang.
#20445 is the SN part number for a counterwally, 1980 Ford Mustang or Mercury Capri 2.3 Turbo Carb
Customer part number # 465564-6
Give them a generic part number list. Anyone asking anything else are just being awkward. Tell anyone you'll pay cash only for the turbo, carb and intake, or no deal. Unscrupulous People try to split parts to get three bits of the ch3rry. Been down that road with 2V heads, intakes and tube headers. Anyone who doesn't supply all parts isn't to be trusted AT ALL because its likely stolen or split for unconscionable gain
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Gregpro50 AND m81McLaren gave me all the info.
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... rs!/page10
One other forum member has the whole 1979 turbo carb 2.3 kit, but your bettor off just posting an All Points Bulletin , and trying your fortune.
There is no support or backup for new turbos. Despite al the promises. In a year, you'll not get the same parts again, so try using old Hot Rodders logic, and buy junk cheep, and have it magnaflux crack tested and dye penetrant tested, and then alcohol cleaned with new seals and bearings checked.
Two Byrds in the Bush is better than one they can see you have in hand.
I have lost faith in the concept of just buying new stuff, when extra things then have to go with extra things. The USA is a glorious dumpster of anything you need barn find serendipity. You MUST network and ask, and be informed, and never back down until you get something that solves a problem without creating others.
Draw throughs are flow biased, and dangerous to operated above 9 to 12 psi if the fuel isn't directed to each cylinder with 80% flow efficiency for each cylinder. But if you use two 0.48 AR exhaust T032's from an old 2.3 carb turbo, you'll do fine. But you've got a few things to learn on the 6 bolt location and intake arrangement. You have to ask Powerband a few placement questions, and network to make this work great
Tell anyone its a generic type 1 sealed TO32 "B" with an early variation of Fords T03-60. My friend from Downer NZ has a 1981 Turbo Trans Am BF Goodrich with factory WS6 rims, BFG 295/50 15 tires and a factory turbo down here.
Same crap.
Counterwally wants to know car(which he will tell you THE COMPUTER SAYS is wrong),
turbo name (which he will tell you THE COMPUTER SAYS is wrong),
VIN number (which he will argue over) etc etc etc...
Fords OEM part is supplied by DSO, so top two fields are blank.
Use these numbers. If anyone asks for a VIN number, use the 1981 VIN 1FABP10B4CF109967 Mustang.
#20445 is the SN part number for a counterwally, 1980 Ford Mustang or Mercury Capri 2.3 Turbo Carb
Customer part number # 465564-6
Give them a generic part number list. Anyone asking anything else are just being awkward. Tell anyone you'll pay cash only for the turbo, carb and intake, or no deal. Unscrupulous People try to split parts to get three bits of the ch3rry. Been down that road with 2V heads, intakes and tube headers. Anyone who doesn't supply all parts isn't to be trusted AT ALL because its likely stolen or split for unconscionable gain
https://www.oocities.org/twincharger/turbo.html
{This Page is an outdated, user-generated website brought to you by an archive.
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Gregpro50 AND m81McLaren gave me all the info.
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread. ... rs!/page10
One other forum member has the whole 1979 turbo carb 2.3 kit, but your bettor off just posting an All Points Bulletin , and trying your fortune.
There is no support or backup for new turbos. Despite al the promises. In a year, you'll not get the same parts again, so try using old Hot Rodders logic, and buy junk cheep, and have it magnaflux crack tested and dye penetrant tested, and then alcohol cleaned with new seals and bearings checked.
Also, originally i was kinda thinking about trying to do 3 intake runners off a single turbo to blow into the cast intake like the offy setup, 3x1. Not necessarily using the offy setup but spaced apart like it. But the use of 2 2bbls and 2 turbos sounds more sick. My only worry with all that is space.
Using the Offy Tri Power adapter, fabd' a tri-port plenum fora Roots Blow-Thru project that didn't proceed. Project evolved into the Centrifugal SC Blow-Thru without the Plenum.
/
. 
Testing NA on built 250 the Tri=Port Plenum worked better than expected with big 4412/2300, easier tuning than multi-carb Tri Power, but no faster ... .
. 
have fun
Using the Offy Tri Power adapter, fabd' a tri-port plenum fora Roots Blow-Thru project that didn't proceed. Project evolved into the Centrifugal SC Blow-Thru without the Plenum.
/
. Testing NA on built 250 the Tri=Port Plenum worked better than expected with big 4412/2300, easier tuning than multi-carb Tri Power, but no faster ... .
. have fun
Ak Miller was adamant that air flow with fuel be split exactly...Exactly90 degrees into two legs. Not three. Three could work, but then you'd need a 50/50 split on each delivery base and a channeling system. I've done one before, but don't like the geometry much.
Love your input PB....you've got heaps of great work. Your Rectangular Holed Section intake would just need a twin split from each turbo to ensure equal supply to each hole.
Chevrolet on the Cross fire 5.0 Firebird and Camaro and the 82/84-85 Corvette had a four divider bath plug flow inducer to split flow to each cylinder. A 2 way version of it would work well.
Love your input PB....you've got heaps of great work. Your Rectangular Holed Section intake would just need a twin split from each turbo to ensure equal supply to each hole.
Chevrolet on the Cross fire 5.0 Firebird and Camaro and the 82/84-85 Corvette had a four divider bath plug flow inducer to split flow to each cylinder. A 2 way version of it would work well.
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