Forged crankshaft for a build with a turbo

Gilwelding has a kit for mpfi using an aussiespeed intake.
Nice! I'll definitely look at that option.

When going with port EFI does that require a crankshaft sensor? Or will that work with a distributor just like throttle body EFI?
 
Looking at this project, it would seem that you'll have to be careful to stay within the 10K budget. If you have an EFI engine, going to TBI would seem to be a step backwards. I would stay with the Ford EFI port injection manifold and throttle body and swap the injectors for 80lb ones. For an ECM, go with a Microsquirt or Terminator X. You'll need a 3Bar MAP sensor and a wide band O2 meter. If you need a bigger throttle body, one from a 351 or 460 at the junk yard should do it. This should save $ over an Offy or Aussie intake and an aftermarket TBI. BTW the Ford TFI ignition on the EFI engines works with Microsquirt and Terminator ECUs.
The short block recipe sounds good with metal timing gears. Likewise a Promax head. The way I see it turbos don't like a lot of valve overlap, so a stock cam may be suitable, It's pretty low lift, so a set of higher ratio (1.7-1) rockers would help the breathing in conjunction with the bigger valves in the Promax head.
I'm not an expert on this stuff, so if the smart guys criticize or comment, that's fine. No offense. But I can see the budget going out the window pretty easily if you're not careful. And we haven't talked about fuel system and some dyno tuning yet either.
 
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Think of boost as a multiplier. The example of the stock 5.0 V8 also assumes you make it breathe like one, so the intakes on that example video flow about 130 CFM, and the exhausts 95 at mid-range .300 lift, the cam appropriate for the rpm, and so on. If you want to match those results, you have to reasonably match those parameters - with only 6 ports. ;) Multiply with a PR of 2 and you double your HP. PR 3 and triple it - actually a bit more as the parasitic losses are absorbed in that first NA PR, but we like conservative.

There are pros and cons to every path in forced-air. Most I work with go turbo, as they are (relatively) cheap, and much more configurable at lower cost, while the downside is some extra exhaust work to fit it in, along with the wastegate for most stuff over PR 2. Blowers are solid, more predictable as you don't have to figure how the exhaust will spin it up, but (relatively) expensive, with ducting, bracket and belt drive engineering. There's no single winner for everything.

What some call the 'turbo lag' is as much the increased power under the curve as it is "late" onset. So while it may feel lag, it also feels like you were missing more at first than you were as it exceeds boost and power compared to a supercharger's more-linear response, for a more "top hat" power curve. Power that follows throttle vs power that lags and exceeds throttle. It's different response and each fits different goals. While generic and assumptive, the following graph helps to explain this phenomenon:
General_stock-vs-boost_power_trends.jpg

Most superchargers are limited for boost level with pump gas, as the efficiency goes crappy pretty quick. Eaton for example cuts their M-charger maps at 2 PR, which is due to falling under 60% adn creating lots of heat, which is bad for both boost and detonation. I have a spare M112 here, and it would be a good fit for a 300, but only up to 2 PR (±15 psig) as you can see. A stock 300 head at 76% VE would make 430 HP at 15 psi and ±510 M3/hr, and at the limit for this supercharger:

M112_5G_sm.jpg
You can see it would take about 20% port flow improvements (with the other stuff) to hit 500 - but it's doable. So this is where you choose the fit to your project goals (yeah, that list), and accept the pros and cons for what fits your happiness. :cool:
 
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You are better off coping the turbocharged Jeep six engine.
They used an 8.6 static compression ratio.
We do not like to bore the 300 six more than needed to clean up the cylinder walls in order to maintain the thickest walls possible.
If you are using the highly recommended Promaxx CNC ported head, You would be looking at a custom piston with a 28 cc dish.
Do you have the link to the turbocharged Jeep engine? I can't find the videos on this engine.
 
Nice! I'll definitely look at that option.

When going with port EFI does that require a crankshaft sensor? Or will that work with a distributor just like throttle body EFI?
I'm running port injection with an efi distributor and my terminator x, no crank sensor on mine
 
+1, better (high tooth-count crank wheel) is always better, and both timing accuracy and transition timing (a biggie) is improved. However, I'd suggest looking at everything in-context. I'll take better whenever I can get it. But if you are so bleeding-edge to have substantial concern over 0.5° versus 1.5° timing accuracy on a pump-gas street engine, then you may have pitched your tent in the wrong campground. ;)
 
+1, better (high tooth-count crank wheel) is always better, and both timing accuracy and transition timing (a biggie) is improved. However, I'd suggest looking at everything in-context. I'll take better whenever I can get it. But if you are so bleeding-edge to have substantial concern over 0.5° versus 1.5° timing accuracy on a pump-gas street engine, then you may have pitched your tent in the wrong campground. ;)
I'd like to add a crank trigger wheel in the future. Currently running e85 so I'd say I have a little more wiggle room vrs gas. I'd probably go individual coil packs if I go through the hassle of putting a trigger wheel together though at that point
 
I have to say, re-reading this thread, that using the factory EFI hardware with aftermarket ECM would be the for-sure go-to for me. Inexpensive, effective, and much easier to tune, better, than any other option. There are plenty of sub-$500 3 and 6-channel ECMs out there with great tuning software under that. Integrated timing control, boost control, rev limiting, anti-lag, WMI control, boost-by-gear, blah, blah... This would be fun!
:cool:
 
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