Got it running!

nickstewartroc

Well-known member
Lets start from the beginning. I don't remember exactly how long ago, sometime last year, I got a shift kit for my C4 in my 67 Mustang. Basically, I wouldn't go in 2nd or 3rd gear at all, so I dropped the transmission pan, checked everything, still nothing. Finally dropped out the transmission assembly to find I put the gasket on the wrong two surfaces :banghead: Put it on the right two, now goes into 2nd and 3rd...but....In an effort to get it working the other way, I appeared to have screwed up 2nd and 3rd, and they would slip quite abit, even with the bands adjusted. I decided to just pull the engine and transmission. Took a few months in between school, and work to rebuild, but after many problems, such as my reverse drum needed a new bushing, and upon pressing the new one in, and it splitting the bushing since I don't have ford tool ##### whatever it is, I found one on ebay in great shape and slapped it in there. From there, I decided to do work on my engine, why not? It's out of the car. Jack on the forums here had a 78 fairmont head, and took it to my engine shop after measuring to find how much I would need it milled. Get it to him, just to find where the carb sits, its cracked :shock: ....Great....This is right after I bought a 2 to 1 adapter, and a motocraft 2150 ( well that was given to me :) ) So I was back to square one again, needing a head. 1969coupe, the same guy I bought a duraspark 2 and the adapter from, had a nice 69' head from a Mustang. We met up and got it , with head studs and a valve cover. Cleaned it up real nice, slapped it on the engine, cleaned the engine all up and painted it. Then I was finally able to join the couple together again (engine and transmission) From there, hooked it up to the engine crane, and put an old valve cover on, since from pulling it, I knew it would get damage, and dropped the engine and transmission back in. Over the past week and a half, I've been working on it in between school and work still, and yesterday, I took the day off work, came home, and even though it had rained all day and everything was wet, went to work. Over the course of 5 hours, I managed to get the drive shaft in, u bolts clamped, transmission cooler lines on, even had to tap the one connector as the first few threads got smashed somehow. From there, I filled the transmission with 5 of the 8 quarts ( since you have to run it and get it up in the torque converter) wired up the ignition, cut my new Accell 4040 wires to size, ran the fuel line to the carb, plugged up the vacuum lines for the moment just to be able to start it finally, Had to run to Lowes for some nuts, as I used the ones I had for the U bolts, and grabbed some 1/4 inch fuel line from the fuel filter to the carb, had to switch over the wires on the solenoid as I had put the I on S, and S on I ( Start and Ignition), tightened down the manifold somewhat, and set the exhaust down tube into the manifold ( not mounted or anything since its laying on the ground not mounted atm) put some fuel in the tank, and was ready to start. After some slight fixes here and there, such as adjusting the timing ( will need to redo the timing once the vacuum lines are plumbed) and some fiddling with the choke, and :shockin: somehow, my first spark plug, the insulator had broke, replaced that with one of my old ones, and :party: The engine roared to life! I was like, pardon my french, Hell Yeah. The best part is how much more responsive it is compared to the old head and old 1100 carb. Another cool thing was the fact that, since the down pipe was connected to the manifold, Flames would really shoot out the manifold when you 'd get on the throttle 8) . All in all, I was very happy with it starting, especially with its birthday being Friday (y) ( Not to bad for a 17 year old huh? :roll: ) I will be posting pics and videos soon, still have alot ahead to get er' driving haha.
 
Congrats, so as you rebuilt the engine, what cam shaft did you decide on? and I think you said you had your manifold connectedt o the down pipe and flames shot out? doesn't sound like it supposed to do that...

if you have rebuilt the engine with a new cam and lifters, remember to break-in the cam, 2000+ rpm for 15 mins, let cool completely(cold to the touch), then repeat for a total fo 3 times. then you can drive it nicely for 500 miles before chaning the oil, some shops say don't rev over 4k rpm in the frist 1k miles but I did... lol

Good luck congrats on the fix'n
 
That's the next step ;) I ended up going with the 264/264 112* as for the down pipe, it wasn't connected, just rested under the manifold, about an dinch offset or so haha

BTW, I am also working on a cable throttle setup, so far so good actually, and its cost me like 10 dollars for everything so far, and everything is store bought
 
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