Holley Weber Regrets--I should have saved the $20

BIGREDRASA

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After a couple of tanks-full of driving with the HolleyWeber 5200 (Motorcraft D32F BO 4A18), I was disappointed with the performance and fuel mileage. Since I had bought a new carb, and reports from a recent dyno test suggested the carb was close to correct jetting out of the box, I figured my problem was the advance curve. I should have known better. The old mechanics’ adage still holds true. “If you think the problem is carburetion, it’s probably ignition; and vice-versa.â€￾ I pulled the dizzy, and tested/compared springs in my DS II plus an old 4 cyl. points-type unit. Not having the Mr. Gasket Springs on hand, I just bent the large spring post inward, cleaned and lubricated everything I could, and slapped it back in.

In the process, I noticed that the choke would not respond to the Electric Choke Spring. So, I pulled off the choke mechanism. After disassembly, I found the lever’s shaft varnished up, so it wouldn’t turn. Oil didn’t help. A little 220 sandpaper and oil had it turning slick as a politician. In addition, the "O" ring between the body and choke assembly was crushed. As long as I had it partially disassembled, I figured I’d check the jet sizes. Holley Cow, was I surprised. I should have saved $20 and bought the reman carb.

My new HW must have sat on the shelf for nearly 30 years, unprotected in an old warehouse. The surface between air horn and body showed signs of leakage. The fuel bowl had a fine black powder sediment in the bottom. The gasket felt like it was powdery. The body had white powdery deposits. The throttle bores had dark, powdery deposits.
The Main Jets of 130 & 140 appeared to be strangely small. The Air Correction Jets had no numbers. They measured approximately 1/16" & 5/64". The Emulsion Tubes were stamped “15â€￾ & “16â€￾. The Idle Jets were “55â€￾ & “80â€￾.

The carb had a Plastic Float, and I had a Brass Float in my box of goodies. So, I swapped in the Brass Float. I didn’t bother setting the float, as it looked to be set the same as the plastic. I cleaned and reassembled the carb. Tried to fire it up, and somehow I had missed the dizzy position. Car wouldn’t start. Oops, fuel is spitting out the top of the carb. No sweat, I put the plastic float back in. Tried to start again, and again fuel still spit out of the top. Pull the Air Horn off, and check float settings against the spec sheet. The float was set waaay too high, and the float drop was waaay too low. Put the brass float back in, set the levels close. (Didn’t dare remove the gasket, because it would probably disintegrate—see above). That solved that problem.

The car had run well with the Holley 1100 and LOM with Pertronix 1. After the headers and new exhaust, it seemed to be a little flat 55-60 MPH. I figure the header has improved exhaust flow, and has led to a leaner mixture. However, the car has had a lope at idle since the carb/dizzy swap. Time to look at the plugs. I have never seen anything like that! They were half black and half white. It was like someone had colored them half & half. The black I figured was from all the monkeying around with the carb. But the white deposits were downright scary. I had taken a couple of trips at 70-80 MPH sustained speeds, and I sure hope I haven’t burned any valves.

I couldn’t get new Platinum Plugs, so I cleaned the old plugs for now. It runs well around town. However, I think I’ll throw in richer jets before I take another long trip. I have parts from two other carbs, so I’ll try to richen it some. I am a little nervous now. Wish I had bought the used/rebuilt carb.
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Yow! Shows that it pays to tear into even "new" parts...

I'd get a new gasket (rebuild kit), there are a couple of vacuum and fuel passages in there that need good sealing.

And a couple of cans of spray carb cleaner...
 
My gas mileage with the rebuilt HW is worse than with my 1v. I average around 16 MPG now, instead of 20-23 with the 1v.
 
Best of luck Tony. I know you have fought the HW from the beginning.
You might want to try the holley 350 or an autolite carb.
The tests next week might persuade you to do a direct mount & put a decent carb on your engine. Bill
 
sorry to hear that your h/w is giving grief. I have been around cars all my life and this was one of the easiest, and trouble free swaps I have ever made. I got my carb from stovebolt, and it was fresh, new smelling even. I am now up to 20.5 mpg in the city with my 80 fairmont. it has a factory 4 speed. really smooth.
 
dont mean to steal but the whole debug thingy my question its kinda along these lines, i was thinking of getting the reman from stovebolt but i found a holley 2300 for 40 bucks out of a running engine. Can i still use the stovebolt adapter, will it work, im getting a ds2 soon and headers and the eninge is bored other than that all stock, which way is the best? Best being as long as i get 16- 18 miles per gallon ill be ok so if the 2300 will work with more power id like that if not then id think of the 5200. Thanks.
 
Testing shows that there is not much difference between a properly set-up 2300 or 5200 mounted on an adaptor.

I think the dyno showed one hp difference between the two. I don't know about the stovebolt adaptor but the clifford adaptor is either for the weber/5200 or the holley 2300
 
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