Getting the odd email and PM about this stuff, here's some verbage to digest:
I've tried to answer the basic questions clearly. Be assured, it's NOT a cakewalk, but if thoroughly planned, should be a smooth import process. There's a couple of worked examples at the end, trying to give a realistic handle on your likely costs, should you choose to "do it yourself".
ALL PRICES ARE IN AUSSIE DOLLARS. GO TO http://www.xe.com/ucc/ FOR CONVERSIONS!
•How much does the basic engine cost?
Expect to pay at least $150 for a complete "core" motor; up to 3 times that in some instances if decent aftermarket parts are involved. Investigate the costs of transporting it to the next place of "work". If you are importing "as is", get it pressure washed or steamed clean. A wrecker may charge $85 extra to steam a motor and deliver it within the metropolitan area.
•How much does a rebuild cost?
A rebuild I would tolerate runs around $2800 plus ancillaries (carb, dizzy, plugs, leads, thermo housing, you get the idea…) Add up to $500 for all this to be sorted. Cheaper rebuilds are around, but are NOT hone-to-fit, or dynamically balanced, thoroughly cleaned or otherwise appropriately tended.
Remember, you will almost certainly have to engage a separate firm to initially dismantle and clean the unit, and fit/pack the ancillaries after rebuild. This will cost up to $300 more, plus an extra couple of freight charges – say $130 there.
•What if I just ship the basic parts and rebuild myself?
Speaking good or better aftermarket or OEM. Pay $270 for a cam, $90 for a gasket set, $115 for a timing set, $90 for a fuel pump (carbed models), $95 for a distributor gear, cap and rotor. You might as well source the rest Stateside.
•I like the EFI valve cover. Will it work on a carb motor?
Sure. Pay $40-60 for a used one with the original matching oil cap.
•Can I fit my C4?
Yes, but you will need to acquire a zero balance weight SBF flexplate and SBF torque converter (Stateside), plus an Aussie C4 bell. Expect up to $150 for the bellhousing. From 1966 to 1987, all transmissions used the same dust cover (inspection plate); $10-15.
•What other manual boxes can fit?
You can get an aftermarket T5 bell from Dellow for about $275-300 with clutch fork. This is made to order and may be cable or hydraulic, left or right hand actuation. You will need to buy a T5 first (preferably a V8 one). Toploader/Tremec bells are about $60 (hydraulic) to $90 (cable); be sure to get the dust boot as it is $65 new. Remember the block plate at $10-15 and the dust cover. Celica/Supra bells are available from Dellow at about the T5 bell price.
•What about engine mounts?
Your front ones for a 200 or 250 should work, but if you have a drag link (centre link) in your steering, the engine will have to sit up by 3/16 to 1/4" by the use of shim washers in the mountings. A rear mount of the aftermarket type is required for early Falcons and Mustangs. Castlemaine Rod Shop sell one for about $105 with postage here.
•Will US headers fit?
No! You'll need Pacemaker, Genie, Perrys or Redline (Hardiman) headers made to suit the most similar Aussie car/motor combination. About $360 for the Pacemakers supplied not fitted.
•What manifolds are available?
Discontinued manifolds from Cain (2 and 4-barrel Holley) at prices from $50 up, Redline offer similar units around $275, also the Sprint two barrel Holley manifold at $550. After late '84, the factory manifold was a two barrel Weber unit. A full EFI manifold/TB will cost up to $150 at a wreckers.
•Can I go EFI later?
Yes, sure. But I suggest you buy an EFI motor, then a standard dizzy and manifold at the same time. It will be cheaper than going the other way.
•OK, I know now what I want. How do I go about things?
First you check with a sea freight company. You need a price to your nearest port, from the port of dispatch ("lading"). Also find out how much it will be to pick up from a crating firm in the same city. For both these, you will easily be inside their minimum weight and size for one motor/bellhousing.
Add to this, your crate making/filling costs. Add the cost of transporting to the crating firm. Add the cost of your "service" firm or cooperative wrecker cleaning, labelling and pre-packing (just in cardboard boxes) all the miscellaneous stuff. Remember to add any extra transport costs if you have had the engine rebuilt.
There (above) are the services costs. Add your engine purchase, parts and rebuild costs to that figure.
Add 10% to the total for variance and currency conversion costs.
What you now have is the cost of getting it to your port. This does not include any brokerage, handling fees, import charges. You must investigate these your end, as they will vary immensely.
So, some typical examples:
1. Private sale EFI 250 and C4 going to LA.
2. Wrecker-supplied carb 250, destination NY.
I hope this helps clarify some of the common questions.
Adam.
I've tried to answer the basic questions clearly. Be assured, it's NOT a cakewalk, but if thoroughly planned, should be a smooth import process. There's a couple of worked examples at the end, trying to give a realistic handle on your likely costs, should you choose to "do it yourself".
ALL PRICES ARE IN AUSSIE DOLLARS. GO TO http://www.xe.com/ucc/ FOR CONVERSIONS!
•How much does the basic engine cost?
Expect to pay at least $150 for a complete "core" motor; up to 3 times that in some instances if decent aftermarket parts are involved. Investigate the costs of transporting it to the next place of "work". If you are importing "as is", get it pressure washed or steamed clean. A wrecker may charge $85 extra to steam a motor and deliver it within the metropolitan area.
•How much does a rebuild cost?
A rebuild I would tolerate runs around $2800 plus ancillaries (carb, dizzy, plugs, leads, thermo housing, you get the idea…) Add up to $500 for all this to be sorted. Cheaper rebuilds are around, but are NOT hone-to-fit, or dynamically balanced, thoroughly cleaned or otherwise appropriately tended.
Remember, you will almost certainly have to engage a separate firm to initially dismantle and clean the unit, and fit/pack the ancillaries after rebuild. This will cost up to $300 more, plus an extra couple of freight charges – say $130 there.
•What if I just ship the basic parts and rebuild myself?
Speaking good or better aftermarket or OEM. Pay $270 for a cam, $90 for a gasket set, $115 for a timing set, $90 for a fuel pump (carbed models), $95 for a distributor gear, cap and rotor. You might as well source the rest Stateside.
•I like the EFI valve cover. Will it work on a carb motor?
Sure. Pay $40-60 for a used one with the original matching oil cap.
•Can I fit my C4?
Yes, but you will need to acquire a zero balance weight SBF flexplate and SBF torque converter (Stateside), plus an Aussie C4 bell. Expect up to $150 for the bellhousing. From 1966 to 1987, all transmissions used the same dust cover (inspection plate); $10-15.
•What other manual boxes can fit?
You can get an aftermarket T5 bell from Dellow for about $275-300 with clutch fork. This is made to order and may be cable or hydraulic, left or right hand actuation. You will need to buy a T5 first (preferably a V8 one). Toploader/Tremec bells are about $60 (hydraulic) to $90 (cable); be sure to get the dust boot as it is $65 new. Remember the block plate at $10-15 and the dust cover. Celica/Supra bells are available from Dellow at about the T5 bell price.
•What about engine mounts?
Your front ones for a 200 or 250 should work, but if you have a drag link (centre link) in your steering, the engine will have to sit up by 3/16 to 1/4" by the use of shim washers in the mountings. A rear mount of the aftermarket type is required for early Falcons and Mustangs. Castlemaine Rod Shop sell one for about $105 with postage here.
•Will US headers fit?
No! You'll need Pacemaker, Genie, Perrys or Redline (Hardiman) headers made to suit the most similar Aussie car/motor combination. About $360 for the Pacemakers supplied not fitted.
•What manifolds are available?
Discontinued manifolds from Cain (2 and 4-barrel Holley) at prices from $50 up, Redline offer similar units around $275, also the Sprint two barrel Holley manifold at $550. After late '84, the factory manifold was a two barrel Weber unit. A full EFI manifold/TB will cost up to $150 at a wreckers.
•Can I go EFI later?
Yes, sure. But I suggest you buy an EFI motor, then a standard dizzy and manifold at the same time. It will be cheaper than going the other way.
•OK, I know now what I want. How do I go about things?
First you check with a sea freight company. You need a price to your nearest port, from the port of dispatch ("lading"). Also find out how much it will be to pick up from a crating firm in the same city. For both these, you will easily be inside their minimum weight and size for one motor/bellhousing.
Add to this, your crate making/filling costs. Add the cost of transporting to the crating firm. Add the cost of your "service" firm or cooperative wrecker cleaning, labelling and pre-packing (just in cardboard boxes) all the miscellaneous stuff. Remember to add any extra transport costs if you have had the engine rebuilt.
There (above) are the services costs. Add your engine purchase, parts and rebuild costs to that figure.
Add 10% to the total for variance and currency conversion costs.
What you now have is the cost of getting it to your port. This does not include any brokerage, handling fees, import charges. You must investigate these your end, as they will vary immensely.
So, some typical examples:
1. Private sale EFI 250 and C4 going to LA.
2. Wrecker-supplied carb 250, destination NY.
I hope this helps clarify some of the common questions.
Adam.
