60s Refugee
Well-known member
Everyone tells me that it took them weeks to get everything set correctly.
Well, they are right! After two weeks I have improved the performance but it still ain't right!
Fuel lines. I don't like compression fittings. I plan to replace these. For now they do the job. I thought about putting a second fuel filter in the rubber line, but the canister filter already on the fuel pump should do the job. Here's how they wound up. The fuel line from the pump is still the OEM line. It is cut such that a 5" hose connects the new carb lines to it. Nothing leaks!
Linkage. I used a hybrid mix of two Offy bell cranks, an old Stromburg center bell crank, and numerous hardware store parts. Here's a pic.
As you can see, the outer carbs are hooked up with the usual link running up from the bell cranks. Whats different is that the two outer carb are connected by an adjustable hollow stainless rod with tie rod ends. This adjustment needs to be perfect since if it is out either direction, one of the carbs won't completely close. You can also see the return spring running from the rear crank to the tranny modulator line. This spring needed to be adjusted enough to close the throttle plates, but not add too much resistance to the gas pedal. Here's a pic of the center crank.
You can clearly see the "progressive" link. It is adjustable, and I have it set to pull in the outer carbs at about 2/3 throttle. You can also see the pedal rod bend job to clear the header. The center crank pivots on a shaft screwed into the threaded hole in the OEM carb base. It is held in place with a "C" clip. The rod running up to the carb is still the OEM link. A return spring runs down to the bolt that held the original exhaust pipe clamp.
Here you can see the "dual rod" connection I came up with. The second link running down to the center crank actuates the progressive link. It is deeply bent in order to clear the SCV diaphram. The double pivot ball is made up by welding a stud to a hex nut. The outers kick in strong and over the coming months I will try to find the best balance between 1 on vs. 3 on.
Timing. I finally resorted to setting the dizzy way too advanced, then, after a hard accelleration trial to get "ping", retard it a little and try again. I repeated this until the ping no longer resulted. Then I advanced it just a bit. The "Falcon Performance Handbook" states that a little ping is actually good. Seems like the "sweet spot" is between 10* and 12* BTDC static.
The Carbs. The Bravo carb works great. The outer Holley 1904's are still causing problems. The Alpha carb still leaks. I think the fuel pressure is still forcing gas past the needle valve. I've had it apart now four times and it still leaks under higher RPMs. The idle speed is now set with the outer carbs idle screw turned all the way in. I still can't get a good idle at 750 rpm. I have it set at 1500 fast idle, 1000 idle, 700/800 in gear. When the outer carbs are on, the car does really jump, but idle has never returned to what it was.
Bottom line...I need another Autolite 1100. I believe that three of these will work much better than those old Holleys. At least they will resist the fuel pressure issue, and perhaps may solve what ever the idle problem is in the Holleys.
Harry
Well, they are right! After two weeks I have improved the performance but it still ain't right!
Fuel lines. I don't like compression fittings. I plan to replace these. For now they do the job. I thought about putting a second fuel filter in the rubber line, but the canister filter already on the fuel pump should do the job. Here's how they wound up. The fuel line from the pump is still the OEM line. It is cut such that a 5" hose connects the new carb lines to it. Nothing leaks!
Linkage. I used a hybrid mix of two Offy bell cranks, an old Stromburg center bell crank, and numerous hardware store parts. Here's a pic.
As you can see, the outer carbs are hooked up with the usual link running up from the bell cranks. Whats different is that the two outer carb are connected by an adjustable hollow stainless rod with tie rod ends. This adjustment needs to be perfect since if it is out either direction, one of the carbs won't completely close. You can also see the return spring running from the rear crank to the tranny modulator line. This spring needed to be adjusted enough to close the throttle plates, but not add too much resistance to the gas pedal. Here's a pic of the center crank.
You can clearly see the "progressive" link. It is adjustable, and I have it set to pull in the outer carbs at about 2/3 throttle. You can also see the pedal rod bend job to clear the header. The center crank pivots on a shaft screwed into the threaded hole in the OEM carb base. It is held in place with a "C" clip. The rod running up to the carb is still the OEM link. A return spring runs down to the bolt that held the original exhaust pipe clamp.
Here you can see the "dual rod" connection I came up with. The second link running down to the center crank actuates the progressive link. It is deeply bent in order to clear the SCV diaphram. The double pivot ball is made up by welding a stud to a hex nut. The outers kick in strong and over the coming months I will try to find the best balance between 1 on vs. 3 on.
Timing. I finally resorted to setting the dizzy way too advanced, then, after a hard accelleration trial to get "ping", retard it a little and try again. I repeated this until the ping no longer resulted. Then I advanced it just a bit. The "Falcon Performance Handbook" states that a little ping is actually good. Seems like the "sweet spot" is between 10* and 12* BTDC static.
The Carbs. The Bravo carb works great. The outer Holley 1904's are still causing problems. The Alpha carb still leaks. I think the fuel pressure is still forcing gas past the needle valve. I've had it apart now four times and it still leaks under higher RPMs. The idle speed is now set with the outer carbs idle screw turned all the way in. I still can't get a good idle at 750 rpm. I have it set at 1500 fast idle, 1000 idle, 700/800 in gear. When the outer carbs are on, the car does really jump, but idle has never returned to what it was.
Bottom line...I need another Autolite 1100. I believe that three of these will work much better than those old Holleys. At least they will resist the fuel pressure issue, and perhaps may solve what ever the idle problem is in the Holleys.
Harry
