Just wondering if anyone has any info on putting a newer straight 6 in a 1966 mustang or if its even possible. My brother and I are working on his 66 and just the other day he lost compression on cylinder 4, after scoping the cylinder i saw a hole in the piston so its time for a swap. He is not interested in a v8 swap so we are sticking to the 6. He is waiting on his new bronco so trying to keep costs down for now so hes waiting to sink in the money for a full rebuild so we are looking to throw a used yard straight 6 into the mustang for now. I'm not sure if the block stayed the same in the newer i6 or if it was just a head change. I was wondering if a newer block with his 66 head would be a possible solution.
All Small Six late model i6 in a '66
- Thread starter PAford
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
Hi!
Yes it is. Here is the info form the tech archive. https://fordsix.com/ci/HeadSwap.html
Key point "Therefore, to use a late model 200/250ci cylinder head that had 62cc chambers, on a ‘65 or ‘66 200ci block, using a composite head gasket, you would need to mill the cylinder head a total of .075" if you wanted to maintain the stock compression ratio. That’s .025" for the difference in gasket thickness and .050" to reduce the chamber volume to 52cc's."
The tech section has much more on this topic and different heads. Also the falcon handbook and older posts go into detail on this topic. You would want a head from 1969+ for best performance. 1981-1983 are the better per the chart.
Yes it is. Here is the info form the tech archive. https://fordsix.com/ci/HeadSwap.html
Key point "Therefore, to use a late model 200/250ci cylinder head that had 62cc chambers, on a ‘65 or ‘66 200ci block, using a composite head gasket, you would need to mill the cylinder head a total of .075" if you wanted to maintain the stock compression ratio. That’s .025" for the difference in gasket thickness and .050" to reduce the chamber volume to 52cc's."
The tech section has much more on this topic and different heads. Also the falcon handbook and older posts go into detail on this topic. You would want a head from 1969+ for best performance. 1981-1983 are the better per the chart.
Thank you much!
Hi, as long as the new motor has the same bell housing pattern it will be an easy swap. Very late 200s have the SBF bell housing. Most 200s have the high mount starter. After 1969 the carb opening was enlarged, so the early carb won't fit. The other thing is the early engine uses a matching carb and distributor, and 1968 and up uses a modern style carb and distributor. You shouldn't mix up the early and late parts. I would use the adjustable rockers from the original engine if it has them. Are you thinking about rings and bearings and things like that! Good luck
Thank you for the reply. Wasn’t looking into rebuilding anything in the block, rather not get into crank or cam. Basically was seeing what 6 I’d be able to grab that’ll bolt in with not much fuss. I knew about matching the carb/distributor so if I pick an engine that’s newer I’ll be grabbing those 2 along with it. Basically just trying to figure out what vehicles to keep an eye out for in the junk yard that I can grab a 200 from that’ll drop in without much modification. Eventually will be doing a full rebuild or buying one but just trying to get it back on the road for the rest of the year
All the 200 short blocks from 1966 to about 1981 are about the same externally and can directly interchange (f your brothers Mustang has a C4 Auto than even a 1965 200 short block can bolt right in). Ford ended production of the C4's Autos during 1982, the last year 200 six'es can have eighter the two regular size bell housing paterens used from 1966 to 1982 (with a high mount starter) can be used with a manual Trans or a C4 auto Trans. There is X2 also the larger modified SBF V8 bell housing (with a low mount starter) as stated above, these bigger bells were built to use the new for late 1982-1983 C5 Auto Transmissions with a lock up torque converter. Your 1966 head can fit any year small six block but X2 as is stated above the later large log heads (200 & 250 six'es) from 1969 to 1983 are much better flowing if you don't mind doing some adapting work to the carb linkage. If the engine you get is a 1976 to 1983 it will also come with a better larger bore Carb's and a DuraSpark II ignition system get the compleate set up and swap it into the Mustang for even better Performace. Best of luck
Link for a 200 in Hugo? Might still be available, dont know where it is exactly.
MN - Ford 200CID I6 & Toploader Trans
Ford 200CID Inline 6 cylinder engine with 3 speed toploader RAN transmission. This set was pulled from a 1972 Ford Bronco. The engine turns over, but I don't know if it ran. I had to cut the transfer case handle to get the set removed. Everything shown is included on the engine (starter...
classicbroncos.com
Thank you all, I think I found it. 3hr drive to CT and there's a 1966 200 that was being rebuilt but owner passed. All done except no rocker arms although its the same year and engine so I can swap those over. Just waiting on a few more details and if all looks good we will be grabbing it saturday
Hi, hopefully this will work out for you. You should have enough parts to pick the best of everything.
If you run an automatic transmission make sure there is no pilot bearing in the crankshaft. If you run a stick shift make sure you have the correct pilot bearing. There is more than one size.
Good luck
If you run an automatic transmission make sure there is no pilot bearing in the crankshaft. If you run a stick shift make sure you have the correct pilot bearing. There is more than one size.
Good luck
Thanks, I’ll check everything out but this will be coming from a 66 also, the pictures look identical but can’t see every angle. Confirmed today that it’s rebuilt top and bottom but the seller said the rear main seal should be replaced because the motor sat for two years and said it might be dry rotted. Also gotta swap the rocker arm assembly. Fingers crossed
X2 on checking to see that the crankshaft pilot hole, block tin plate, flywheel or flex plate, set all those parts up exactly to match with your current engines parts. I think the rear main seal should be ok even after two years of setting this isn't a big deal if the engine was setting inside a dry location, out of the weather. Best of luck
