Rebuild Questions

[bmcgc1960]

After thinking over the sympthoms of the 200 in our 65 Mustang, I have decided to pull the head and do a top end, cam&carb upgrade.

Tomorrow a friend is going to help me pull the hood so I can start work. I like plenty of light/room/access.

First, Im going to hook up a manual oil pressure gauge and see what Im running. The factory gauge stays right in the middle, but thats a roll of the dice. As long as I have good oil pressure at tempature, Im just going to do the top end.

Some questions:

Is it possible to replace the cam with the block in the car? If so, Im ging with the Comp 260 from Summit.

I have a D0 head on a C5 block, Im going to have the shop set the head up for 9.0:1 compression. Will I need adjustable pushrods?

Should I have the shop install 1.74/1.5 Chevy valves? Its not much more cost.

Im not sure what Im going to run for a carb, I would like a 2100 because they are simple, reliable, and idiot proof, but I need to see if my shop has ever milled a 200 log, I dont want to be the first one. I do not like the Holley 1940 on there now, so Im looking for something different.

While the head is out and the hood off, Im going to install my new booster/mc and convert to power brakes, do some painting, and general cleanup under the hood. If all goes smooth, I may go to a DSII at the same time. I have the whole week off and would like to have the car back on the road by next week.

Any tips/advice? My Falcon Six handbook should show up any day, hopefully that can answer some of my questions.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy BMC;

On changing the cam with the block in the car. Yes, it is possible and can be done. You may need a special tool to extract the lifters through the top of the block. New cam bearings will also help to restore oil pressure. You will need to remove the radiator to access the front cover. Add a new timing chain and cam gear set while you're at it.

You might want to do a compression pressure test while the engine is still running. THat might help you assess the block. Oil pressure is not the only concern. Your rings could be shot and still have good oil pressure.

Assuming a mill cut of .075" and normal valve train wear, you will not need to go to adjustable rockers, but they are sure a good idea. The hydraulic function of the lifters can accommodate that much difference. The actual difference is only .060", due to the difference in gasket thickness. The valves are a standard 200 upgrade and are available from Mike as Classic Inlines. They are Ford valve. Have the machinist add a 30 degree back cut to the intakes.

On the carb, I love the 2100 conversion. It's right up there with the DuraSpark II ignition swap.

Be sure to use the later '67 dual bowl MC on your brake upgrade. Also a great upgrade.

Keep us posted on your progress. I hope you will find the Handbook helpful. By the way, do you have a shop manual for your vehicle? It is very worth it.

adios, David

 

[rbohm]

8) whil i like comp cams, i would suggest that you take a look at the cam selection that mike has on his website, www.classicinlines.com they are clay smith cams are are designed for the small ford six, rather than being a generic grind like the comp cams 260h is.

 

[chad]

"...do not like (the Holley 1940 on there now,) so Im looking for something different..."
w/what outcome in mind?
(fitment issues? tuneability, simplicity? "racing", reliability, looks, etc)

Thanks
and
Have fun!

 

[bmcgc1960]

I did a compression test, the lowest reading was 150 and I may not have cranked the engine long enough for an accurate reading.

I do have a shop manual.

Im confused about cam selection. I want better power with no loss of driveability, smooth idle and good vacume. The Falcon six handbook indicates that I should use a CI 268/274 cam. I thought that would be to much duration and the 260 or 264 cam would be a better choice..

I have a 1.01 240 cfm Autolite 2100 that I think would be perfect for a 200. I havent seen any good writeups on how to make the linkage work. I dont have the proper tools or shop to do fabrication work so Im not sure on if I should use it or not.

I think Im going to buy a 200 out of a 65 that was removed for a V8 conversion, drop that in for the present and then build my engine over the summer and drop it in this winter. I would like to see 100hp at the wheels, still get decent mileage, and driveability.

I have read a few posts on other boards that an AOD will work on a 200 block if the top mounts are slotted, but I havent seen any details or pics. A .68 OD AOD with 3.55 or 3.73 gears would be great in an early 200 Mustang.

 

[rbohm]

I did a compression test, the lowest reading was 150 and I may not have cranked the engine long enough for an accurate reading.

good numbers. all you need a a few revolutions.

Im confused about cam selection. I want better power with no loss of driveability, smooth idle and good vacume. The Falcon six handbook indicates that I should use a CI 268/274 cam. I thought that would be to much duration and the 260 or 264 cam would be a better choice..

dont just look at one or two numbers when selecting a cam. lift and duration are just a part of the equation, you also have to factor in valve overlap and lobe separation angle as well. and the nice thing about getting a cam from classicinlines is that you can select your lobe separation angle, from 106-114(iirc). the wider the separation angle the smoother the idle, and the lower the peak torque reading, as a rule of thumb. with the comp cam, you get what you get.