Rocker Arm Seizing to the Rocker Shaft

Hello again, while waiting for my timing gears to arrive, I began assembly of my Kool flow water pump and ran into a situation. My new pump would not turn, I checked and found that the ARP stud in the front right position extended into the water jacket and was in conflict with the pumps impeller. I know that because the original pump with a stamped steel impeller was marked by the bolt and bent (limiting the pump capacity). When I installed the new pump with the machined impeller, it would not turn (luckily I did not tighten it). The solution, stud removal and 4 threads removed and reinstalled. New oil and water pumps installed, Rocker shaft installed, waiting for the arrival of the timing gears. If you are using ARP studs check that those water pumps are free, because those stamped impeller water pumps will deform and you will not know it until you take them apart. Also wonder what others have done about radiators, I have a three row aluminum unit that will not allow the use of an electric fan due to space limitations, I can modify the mount but I was trying to avoid that. But if no other solution is available I will remount the radiator.
I hope you put sealer on the RF stud you shortened.
 
all good - just add that: 1) #11 head bolt is ground off a bit on 1 side for oil passage & 2) the rocker shaft must B clean inside to pass oil along thru it. Last I hada cup emery cloth in my palm and run it over the shaft to get the rockers to pivot smooth'n easy.

65Pony: U hit just bout every pointer . Plez read 'the Handbook' B4 going further. Most of these things R in there. Also the above Tech Archive. These engines are a lill different than another and a once over can pop out some anomalies and oddities that need addressing. Good Luck~
 
Again, I thank you all for the assistance, the timing gears have arrived and have been installed. I had quite a challenge with the rear oil pan seal, I tried a number of different sealers and eventually wiped it all off and found the solution was installing it dry with the proper sealer on the mating flanges (it is a different situation when the engine is in the chassis). Now all I have to do is everything else, cooling system, power steering refill, sway bar linkage, etc.
 
Hello again, it has been awhile, when I attempted to start the car, after all I had done, I once again had a sticking rocker arm. Removed the assembly, and disassembled, scored shaft and arm. Had B&B machine the arms I had purchased to remove tip wear, and purchased new shaft from Mellings. It was interesting to note that the new shaft had reliefs ground into the shaft where it lubes the arms, that differs from the other shafts I have. Also found out the arms had 3/8 adjusters while the units I received from Rocker Arms Unlimited had 1/2 adjusters. Also went ahead and made the commitment to move the radiator forward to allow electric fan installation (cutting, grinding , welding). All said and done I once again attempted to start, finally it runs, well, and no rocker arm sticking at this time. I did find that one of the push rods on the sticking rocker arm had bent, (you could see it as it was running) fortunately I had one extra Melling MEL-MPR-81 push rod that I installed. I will complete the installation and take it for a drive this weekend. Our car show season is slacking off here in Arizona, our final Sunday show is this week, and I hope to have the 65 notchback there.
 
When did the rod bend?
What caused it?
Never saw a shaft like that or the adjusters, cant B cuz they go together can it?
 
Hum somthing still dosent make sense! Did you ever check to see if you have a stuck valve were that rocker arm was with the bent push Rod?
 
First to Chad, I am assuming that when the rocker arm stuck, it allowed freeplay and the pushrod was free roaming and got bent at that point. It was not noticeable because it was not running, once in operation, you could see the slight bend, initially I thought I had misplaced the lifter end of the push rod, but it was bent just enough to require replacement. The adjusters on the replacement set of arms came from Rocker Arms Unlimited and they came with 1/2 inch adjusters with locknuts. The other set I got from the parts yard in Maricopa Az. I only used 3 arms and had them refaced, do to wear. Imagine my surprise when I found the difference in the adjusters, they were 3/8 inch and had no locknut. Drilling and Taping operations allowed all adjusters to match, and some grinding work allowed clearance for the pushrod. Bubba, the stuck valve would seem to make sense, except for the fact that when I removed the rocker arm assembly the valve immediately closed. I started to remove the head in anticipation of that being the problem, but stopped short (fortunately). For Chad, I've never seen a rocker shaft like this Mellings unit, at each of the oil supply holes, a small relief is ground into the shaft to allow a larger quantity of oil to lubricate the rocker arm. I've made some additional adjustments, and finalized the assembly, its still running well, and I'll let you all know how it runs.
 
"...relief is ground into the shaft..."
that would B fun to see. No pic?

"...no locknut...."
interference fit

"... I'll let you all know...'
Kouwell !
 
Chad, I have the mechanical skills to fix the mustang, but am still working on the skill set for sending photographs via Email. I drove the Mustang to two car shows this past weekend with zero problems to this point
 
I hear U loud'n clear Pony !

As "proof is in da puddin" !!! Congrats. (Busy. 2?!?).
(I consult ahalf doz grass roots grps, a municipality, a business and several non-profits. One wants me to go upa level w/them. It would require me learning a software package to run their company. I will not B doin that.) Same here. Altho I think 1 reason Perry brought us over, the last migration, wuz so us ol timers might find ease in gettin pic up. Still gotta figure the camera thing out. "Intuitive"? I bet my 20 something daughter would not find my 8track intuitive, the record player, reel to reel, or may B even the cassette & dial wall phone. I didn't know what the symbols on the Blue Ray were (triangles? squares? an equal sign, what do they indicate?).
 
The project is complete, fully assembled with an electric fan (required moving radiator forward for clearance), new timing gears, new oil pump, new water pump (with shorter ARP stud to clear water pump impeller), new rocker shaft from mellings with early adj. rockers, all this coordinated with a 1980 granada cylinder head with a 350 CFM carb. adapted to it. Vintage Inlines dual outlet header, and some summit 2 5/8 gauges (oil pressure, volt, and temperature). It also has a DUI distributor and Wires. It is not intended to be a race vehicles, I just wanted more performance then the original stock package produced, which also meant improved braking, I've also installed a disc brake package based on a granada, that includes, V8 steering components, and the power booster. This package also includes power steering from Borgenson and Air Conditioning from Vintage Air. The fact that I reside in Arizona is the reason for the Air Conditioning. Overall I am quite happy with the combination, it runs better then it did before, It stops better then it did before, Its cooler then it was before, and it steers better then it did before. Thanks to all of you for your advice and ideas, I will hopefully lead future Goodguys garage tours as the first in line at future events.
 
Congratulations sounds like you made many great improvements hope to see it someday!
 
The project is complete, fully assembled with an electric fan (required moving radiator forward for clearance), new timing gears, new oil pump, new water pump (with shorter ARP stud to clear water pump impeller), new rocker shaft from mellings with early adj. rockers, all this coordinated with a 1980 granada cylinder head with a 350 CFM carb. adapted to it. Vintage Inlines dual outlet header, and some summit 2 5/8 gauges (oil pressure, volt, and temperature). It also has a DUI distributor and Wires. It is not intended to be a race vehicles, I just wanted more performance then the original stock package produced, which also meant improved braking, I've also installed a disc brake package based on a granada, that includes, V8 steering components, and the power booster. This package also includes power steering from Borgenson and Air Conditioning from Vintage Air. The fact that I reside in Arizona is the reason for the Air Conditioning. Overall I am quite happy with the combination, it runs better then it did before, It stops better then it did before, Its cooler then it was before, and it steers better then it did before. Thanks to all of you for your advice and ideas, I will hopefully lead future Goodguys garage tours as the first in line at future events.
Will the large diameter DUI clear the PS pump?????
 
the rocker shaft in my old volvo had worn egg shaped so I turned it down a little with a toolpost grinder to get it round. I didnt feel like making all the bushings so I just had a machiene shop do that part for me and the shaft was a tiny bit larger at one end , so I had them make the bushings a little tight. and to fit the small end then pressed them into the rockers themselves. when I fitted them I used brasso and was able to just keep putting more on and working them until each slipped over the smaller end of the shaft freely with oil , then I rubbed it until I got it into into it's designated position along the shaft. . . where the rockers wore against the pillow blocks I removed a little material from both and fitted bronze washers to work as thrust washers. I don't know if that process would translate o the 300 and if the bearing spun and blocked a passage that might mean more. It seemed to tighten things up for me on my engine without adding a lot of expense and in the end I had removed the egg shape and got them running with what I felt was a suitable oil clearance, although not very scientific. I polished up what i had left of the rockers but there was some wear, I had a bit of an indent since the surface hardening had been disrupted. I found that using a feeler gauge was inaccurate and instead set them with a dial indicator to get the clearance that way because I could.nt get a proper feel in the dished rockers nor did I wanto remove too much of the case hardening.

where I did run into issues was with the springs, they appeared ok but I didnt have them compressing far enough and it caused floating and that destroyed one camshaft. eventually I just stuck thin washers under the springs and put pieces of paper between the coils to make sure they weren't binding, again not that scientific, but seemed to work and a few washers stopped the issues with valve float.

when new , the rockers just rode against the castings of the pillow blocks so adding the washers was my own creation and a way to take up that wear.
I have heard that the bushings should not be honed to size because the tiny hard particles can embed themselves in the softer bearing material. the combination of reaming them and then had fitting seemed reasonable. maybe with the 300, new parts are more common and it may not pay to recondition them like that. I since found a can of some very old compound for this sort of hand fitting, it looks like powdered sulpher.
 
Back
Top