We switched my 1968 Bronco 170 from solid to hydraulic lifters. It seems ok but we still have missing issues with this engine. I have tried everything and changing lifters was my last ditch effort to get it to smooth out. I got rid of the sparkamatic stuff, put a conventional distributor on. Some times it runs pretty good, but seems when it warms up it starts missing. Any thoughts appreciated. P.S. after the change I had a guy tell me there’s no oil port in a solid lifter engine, therefor the hydraulics won’t work??
Solid vs. hydraulic lifters
- Thread starter FarmerBob
- Start date
Welcome to the Ford Six forum did you also change the Camshaft? The Solid lifters and its Camshaft can be used in any engine, however the Hydraulic Lifters and its Cam need to be used in a 1963 or newer short block do you know the Block casting numbers of your 170? Have you done a Compression Test on the engine yet?
Hi, If the lifters are not getting oil pressure I would think they would be making a lot of noise. I hope that works out also because the cams are also designed for either hydraulic or solid. So lets assume the cam is still in good shape and the lifters are working. I guess you used the adjustable rocker arm and that is in good shape. How did you pre-load the lifters? Are they all just slightly tightened down? After the compression test I would warm it up and pull one plug wire off at a time and see if the motor stumbles indicating the cylinder is working, or stays the same, showing the cylinder is not making much power. Also did you get new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor to go with the new distributor? Good luck
Thanks for the replies. Yes the cam and lifters were new together, we overhauled the thing, have done a compression test and its ok, new everything including fuel pump. I have overhauled the carb twice and about ready to get a new one, just doubting it is as good as the original. I will post the block number, l set the lifters and still stumbled so took it to a shop and he reset them. Just a 1/4 turn or so. Ran pretty good for about 20 minutes then stumbles. Seems like vacuum issue, just can’t find anything. I’ve worked on these things for 50 years
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OBTW there is a guy in Minnesota that has a John Deere Garden tractor junk yard. Jims tractor parts. jimsrepairjimstractorparts.com
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A Quarter Turn is what I always set my Hydraulic Lifters too, it doesn't hurt anything and has some advantages in Performance uses. However many people don't like to ever hear the lifters and after the engine has sat over night (Hydraulic Lifters can sometimes blead down some) so for those customers or people that ask I tell them to go to at least 3/4 turn or even to 1 full turn. Yes I think your thinking is right on to focus on the Carb did you happen to test out or replace the the Float in it?
Thanks for the thought, i was concerned about cam timing so we rolled number 1 to TDC. Both valves were shut so that seemed right but not sure if that is correct. for several degrees both ways, they were shut . The mechanic that did overhaul was pretty good, but young. He needed work so I turned it over. oh for Bubba we did replace float. We did not drill out ports to clean them. All Seemed? Clear with air. The numbers we found on block, right side under FOMOCO was 82A and on left side we found 16. Metal tag says. 170. 68. 8. 8-A. And 16-J.
Just can’t figure why it runs good some times. Mostly when it‘s cool. This site Is great! We put in a new distributor, with normal advance. Do I need to do something to carb?
Just can’t figure why it runs good some times. Mostly when it‘s cool. This site Is great! We put in a new distributor, with normal advance. Do I need to do something to carb?
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More specifics about the miss you're experiencing.
Is it only at idle?
Under partial or full acceleration?
Is it only doing this in a particular gear?
how bad is the miss?
Does it seem to be happening to a single cylinder or event?
What type of charging system is on there?
What makes it more noticeable?
It can be just as important to note when the engine is performing as you would expect it to; this can help to cancel out some areas.
Is it only at idle?
Under partial or full acceleration?
Is it only doing this in a particular gear?
how bad is the miss?
Does it seem to be happening to a single cylinder or event?
What type of charging system is on there?
What makes it more noticeable?
It can be just as important to note when the engine is performing as you would expect it to; this can help to cancel out some areas.
Had to replace the ing. switch when my 66 mustang was only 5 years old. it would miss after being on after a while, finely got bad enough to find. When it is acting up, try wiggling the key, and see if anything changes
A 1968 170 Short Block could also have Design / Casting Numbers something like this C8DE-6015-A, that Metal Tag though is even better that you still have it, the 8-A is the year and month it was assembled at the Ford Engine foundry so yes was built in January 1968, this should also match up also with the your cars Door Warrantee build Date.
With the New 1968 spec Distributor than yes you are correct and you will need to concentrate on the Carb and or look for any of the other places that you could have a Vacuum Leak and on these engines there is only only a few places to look. I also assume that you still have the original 1968 Autolite 1100 Carb these are a big favorite of mine. One very common place that needs to be looked at closely and checked for excessive wear of the Throttle shaft on the linkage side of the Carb with the years of use on these cars from the Linkage pulling it open and then the spring pulling the Throttle closed again they can have a good amount of wear to the Carb's body, its not hard to fix those with a Throttle shaft Bushing Repair Kit. One other place is the second Carb base gasket under the adaptor plate many times this gasket doesn't get changed in decades and can be very brittle and even cracked from the engines exhaust heat. Best of luck
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