Here are the current files. There is no code in this tune for an auto trans. This is still very helpful for anyone tuning on an EFI six with an auto trans as the stock engine parameters can be ported over to Decipha's A1C tune that has all of the auto trans code built in. This would not have been possible without the guidance and work of Decipha. I simply adapted his XDF and ADX files to my stock 4.9L tune with his help. Datalogging is working but has a few items that are not working yet. I'll post updates if/when they are fixed.

Anyone who is curious about tuning the stock ECU should download Tunerpro, load these files into it, and start poking around. There is a lot to learn.
Thank you so much for uploading this! I look forward to being able to use it!
 
This has probably just changed my plans for my rebuild! I have one of those unicorn trucks with MAF and OBD2. I'm going to start digging around and I'm sure I'll have questions.
 
On my Alec Pepper Car code, I get access to 103 activated Parameter ID points( PID's) Once you've gotten live data from about 32 or so of the key PID's, your golden. All the good EECIV's can flesh out or emulate live data streams...even from a 1984 constant CFi.
 
I have a ranger 4.0 ecm im going to mod to run the 300 with

60-2 crank and use a stinger cam pickup sensor

Or just write my own xdf and bin
 
Stock SOHC 4.0 and it's injectors and EDIS6. All that stuff can cope with extra size. A 36 percent capacity hike doesn't hurt as long as the IAC does its job.


Although I'm no longer a ThunderHead289 member, see what Luke does with an IAC, just to get Air Fuel trim on a tiny intake system. He's got the essence of what feedback control is on any engine.

That is the same process on how you get into making the EECIV and V work, good injectors, and simple adjustment to the cold and warm start IAC tune which is by physical adjustment to the spec of the year of computer you have you have for your engine. If it's got a different trans, then the idle kicking has a different control system protocol, but as long as your not putting a Manual computer into an automatic truck, you should be good. If you are, just go auto computer.



Mr RodderZ is the pilot of the AHRA F250 with 393 Stroker 351W and stock Mustang 5.0 liter A9P auto EECIV in a converted ZF 5 speed stick

Tune in at 10:29 onwards


After the search, he fixed its traditional idle stager.

L8R-HP, same deal. 2020 445 Godzilla and stock EECV 2008 computer

 
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Stock SOHC 4.0 and it's injectors and EDIS6. All that stuff can cope with extra size. A 36 percent capacity hike doesn't hurt as long as the IAC does its job.


Although I'm no longer a ThunderHead289 member, see what Luke does with an IAC, just to get Air Fuel trim on a tiny intake system. He's got the essence of what feedback control is on any engine.

That is the same process on how you get into making the EECIV and V work, good injectors, and simple adjustment to the cold and warm start IAC tune which is by physical adjustment to the spec of the year of computer you have you have for your engine. If it's got a different trans, then the idle kicking has a different control system protocol, but as long as your not putting a Manual computer into an automatic truck, you should be good. If you are, just go auto computer.



Mr RodderZ is the pilot of the AHRA F250 with 393 Stroker 351W and stock Mustang 5.0 liter A9P auto EECIV in a converted ZF 5 speed stick

Tune in at 10:29 onwards


After the search, he fixed its traditional idle stager.

L8R-HP, same deal. 2020 445 Godzilla and stock EECV 2008 computer

Will check it out
 
well i still have my QH, ill see what it has on it and see if i could possibly make my own controller board, maybe with some onboard storage too with a switch rather than 2 different devices
 
Decipha:

Can you explain the X and Y valves on the MBT chart? I’m trying to get a better understanding of the stock spark schedule.
 

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Hey everyone my name is Michael Decipha Ponthieux from EFIDynoTuning down in New Orleans. I have O&E Speed Shop here in Kenner, Louisiana where we specialize in turbo charged coyote's with our own Voodoo turbo kits. Although the majority of what I do is newer vehicles I do dabble with the eec-v and eec-v significantly. I have a website www.efidynotuning.com where I have write ups for everything tuning related explaining exactly how the ecu's function and how to properly tune them. I have a support forum there as well that I just revamped and from there I was referred here from the member efloth after he posted a link on my forum to help a fellow sixer out. After I jointed here one of your moderators suggested I post a break down of what all is needed to custom tune the stock ecu's in the 96/97 trucks as the need is increasing. I though that was an excellent idea and figured I'd break down those specifically. If there's any other ecu's yall commonly use just LMK and I can give you the specifics on those as well but for the most part its the same process for all 1983-2021 fords.

About me, I create open source DIY tuning support for stock ford ecu's. I also write custom code to do anything I need to with the stock ecu's as well; such as reassigning pins, writing dry shot n2o control code, 2-steps, over heat protection, wideband lean out safety, boosted fuel control, I create tables and functions for custom things I want just basically anything I desire. The ford ecu's are 100% user-programmable to do anything you want. There are no limitations at all. There is absolutely nothing you cannot do when writing code for the stock ecu's. However their are processing limits and on higher horsepower applications it does becomes beneficial to swap to aftermarket ecu's. For EEC-IV that limit is right around 1200rwhp. For early EEC-V that limit is right around 1400 rwhp and for later 2004 (27mhz ecu's) that limit is right around 1900rwhp. PowerPC's used in the 2005-2010 vehicles I usually cap off around 1200rwhp. 2011+ copperhead siemens tricore continential ecu's that limit hasn't been reached yet but I'd suspect its somewhere in the realm of 2500rwhp. Yes it is possible to take each of these ecu's to higher limits but the processing speed is not what I consider optimal beyond these limits. From these horsepower ranges on down there is absolutely no reason to swap from the stock ecu as it is more than capable of doing whatever you need it to.

First you need the hardware to plug in to it. For any 2004 and older ecu that has a J3 port on the back the only practical option is a Moates quarterhorse. Its by far superior to any other option out there. The Moates quarterhorse is a real-time emulator which basically means it allows the engine computer to run off your laptop. You can even make real-time WOT corrections if your ballsy enough. Not only is real-time tuning far superior to anything else which even most aftermarket ecu's don't support but its also significantly easier to dial in a vehicle and a lot less time consuming being that you can apply corrections while the vehicle is running. You literally update the tune in the time it takes to press the key stroke on the laptop. The QH also gives you far superior datalogging support compared to any other options out there. The J3 port is a direct access port to memory and can data log 1000x faster than OBD-2 ports on EEC-V computers. In fact it datalogs so fast that I intentionally slow down the logging speed since 1000 frames per second may have 200 frames with the exact same value. In any case the moates QH can be purchased direct from Moates.net for $250. Moates is located in my neck of the woods as well in Baton Rouge and stands behind their hardware 100%. Craig and Dave are both stand up guys and have always gone above and beyond.

Next you'll need the software to actually see the values in your tune file and to data log with the quarterhorse This is achieved with the binary (.bin) file which is the actual open source calibration tune file. The definition file maps out the parameters in the tune to human readable values rather than hexadecimal values which look like gibberish to the average person. The definition file is created by disassembling the binary and finding where in the code the parameters are stored.
As I complete my definition files from my own engineering based values to a more polished and easily readable listing I post my definition and even my own custom base tunes on my website as free downloads to help out the DIY tuning community.

The QH install is pretty straight forward. You simply remove the ECU and pop the black cover off the back of the ecu (or pop out the pop out) that covers the J3 port. You then clean the terminals will a razor blade to scrape all the plastic protective adhesive film off the terminals placed there by the factory. On some ecu's you may have capacitors in the way that you can easily and carefully lay over with your finger. The QH is idiot proof and only plugs in one way with the USB cable hanging out the hole for plugging in your laptop. I recommend placing a piece of masking or duct tape over the j3 port and QH to seal and protect it from coming loose. DO NOT UNPLUG OR PLUG IN ANY J3 PORT DEVICE WHILE THE IGNITION IS ON. This will fry the ecu and usually fry the device as well.

Software wise TunerPro RT is my poison. The best part is its free and I write all of my own definition files for it. The datalogging abilities of tunerpro are far superior to any other software options out there as well and everything is integrated by the definition developer (me) so it requires nothing on end user (you).

TunerPro requires very little user knowledge and very little user input to install and get going in quite literally a matter of only seconds (if you have your def and bin files already). Hence Its significantly faster to get setup and going compared to any other custom tuning software available. If it sounds like I'm partial I am. I've used just about every single tuning platform for fords and TunerPro is hands down second to none. The free part is just unbelievable.

So on to tuning. Unless your extremely well versed in fords algorithms its most highly advisable to start your tune from a known good base calibration. A base calibration is stock properly tuned vehicle file made by yours truly. In stock form the stock tunes require extensive changes to dial in the tune properly. If you want to start from a stock tune file and dial it in manually keep in mind that I've been tuning and programming since Hurricane Katrina over 15 years ago and to this day I still find limiting values that I have to manually dig for and remove on some vehicles. Save yourself the headache and frustration and go straight to a known good base tune you'll thank me later.

ECU wise the 96/97 ford trucks have 4 different ecu's that are all interchangeable some what. The hardware codes for these ecu's are:
ml1-441
ml1-442
ml1-422
ml1-421
One ecu is for a 6 cylinder manual, one is for a 6 auto, the other is for an 8 cyl manual and another for the 8 cyl auto.

AN 8 CYLINDER ECU CAN BE USED ON A 6 CYLINDER WITH NO PROBLEMS. A 6 CYLINDER ECU CANNOT BE USED ON AN 8 CYLINDER SINCE 2 CYLINDERS WILL NOT HAVE INJECTOR DRIVERS AND THUS WILL NOT OPERATE.

These ecu's can all run the same calibrations and all fall under 2 different definitions.

[AGANF] 1996-1997 Trucks 4.9/5.0/5.8/7.5 w/ manual or E4OD transmissions.
[CFAK7] 1996-1997 Trucks 4.9/5.0/5.8/7.5 w/ manual or 4R70W transmissions.

As for tuning there's simplistically 3 basics to dialing in the tune. Fuel Spark and Air. First you dial in fuel by putting your actual injector data in your tune file and either dialing in the mass air flow transfer or the VE table if speed density. Spark can only be dialed in after your fuel is dialed in and is as simple as plugging the value you want in your spark table. You make a pull either on a dyno or on the street and use the results from the dyno or the butt dyno to gauge whether or not the vehicle likes or dislikes the spark adjustment. You can adjust til your blue in the face to get the spark dialed in. The best method is always going to be running down the drag strip though to verify what timing makes the engine perform best. Dynos and butt dynos are a good choice to get it in the ball park though.

Air can be broken down in to two primary categories. Idle Air which I simplify in all my tunes to having the throttle stop set correctly and simply dialing in the isc multplier table for cold starts and startup friction.

Dashpot which is the idle air control valves decay of the rpm back to idle. This is where all your drive-ability and street manners come in to play.

Both are dialed in by applying correction in realtime to get the idle air error to 0 and by being able to control the rpm drop back to idle stable. Dashpot is significantly person specific as what one person likes for rpms returning to idle another may hate. Similar to transmission shift points which is very subjective to the driver as well.

And thats the basic premise of tuning. It sounds pretty simple because it is. Anyone can tune their own vehicle if they are willing to put the time in to learn. There's absolutely nothing to it just a little common sense, playing with value and guess work (literally).

For a full break down and in depth explanation I highly recommend going to my site and starting at the homepage and working your way down the left side table of contents.


If anyone has any questions don't hesitate to post back and I'll try to respond as soon as possible although I don't frequent here often.
I am really looking for a strategy file or one to be made (Right now I am trying to figure it out) For the EFI-SD3x PCMs with E4OD.
 
I got a stupid question. If I decide I want to remove the EFI (94 f150 with standard trans) and swap to a carb set up (aftermarket 2 barrel set up). Does the computer need the tps to help control ignition? Or what would i need to keep, to keep the truck running? I imagine i can keep pressure and temp sensors so i can keep my cluster working. What i would eventually like to do is clean up the engine bay and make the truck very simple.
 
I got a stupid question. If I decide I want to remove the EFI (94 f150 with standard trans) and swap to a carb set up (aftermarket 2 barrel set up). Does the computer need the tps to help control ignition? Or what would i need to keep, to keep the truck running? I imagine i can keep pressure and temp sensors so i can keep my cluster working. What i would eventually like to do is clean up the engine bay and make the truck very simple.
There's no reason to remove the EFI. A carb is not going to do anything better. It's a newer truck so keep it running like one, not like a trashy carbed older model.
 
I got a stupid question. If I decide I want to remove the EFI (94 f150 with standard trans) and swap to a carb set up (aftermarket 2 barrel set up). Does the computer need the tps to help control ignition? Or what would i need to keep, to keep the truck running? I imagine i can keep pressure and temp sensors so i can keep my cluster working. What i would eventually like to do is clean up the engine bay and make the truck very simple.
Before I answer your question, I'll simply say don't do it! I've regretted doing that on my '90 since the day I did it, 10 years ago.
Just converting the fuel system to carb pressure is a massive hassle, and expensive if you do what I did which is still working but I don't recommend. $200+ Aeromotive pressure regulator, AND a second carb regulator, tank mods to accommodate the 1/2" fuel return line, ETC.
This truck got in the low to mid 20's mpg EFI, now 17 is a great day, and the 4V has less power than the stock EFI.

to keep the TFI ignition, you need all the engine sensors. Knock sensor, engine temp, intake temp, TPS. Basically unplug the injectors and leave everything else. The '90 didn't care that EGR, air pump and evaporative were all removed (when it was EFI), but not sure if the '94 will be as accommodating.
 
I hear you guys, i just hate the look of the EFI manifold. Also my fuel milage is not the greatest either. Ive got it to the best milage right now at about 18 mpg without running AC despite being in south texas. But thanks for answering my question. It gives me more to consider before i pull the plug on the EFI.
 
I also don't recommend it but to correctly calculate timing would need you map/tps/act/etc/rpm just off the top of my head
 
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