All Small Six Torque spec on guide plates for roller rockers and setting contact patch on Yella Terra RR's

[Goldie]

Hello,

Does anyone here know the torque spec for the guide plates used with the yella terra roller rocker assys?

Edited: Think we found our answer of 35 lb-ft on the guide plates.

Also, does anyone know of a video or instructions on how to make sure the contact patch of the Terra Roller rockers is in the right place? I found a video on the Yella Terra website showing this on an LS1 engine, but don't want to assume this would be the same on the 200ci with 250ci aussie head Ford engine. Want to make sure we get this right the first time.

Thank you!

 

[pmuller9]

does anyone know of a video or instructions on how to make sure the contact patch of the Terra Roller rockers is in the right place?

Do you still need help with the contact patch on the valve stem tips?

 

[Goldie]

Do you still need help with the contact patch on the valve stem tips?

Yes, please! Thank you.

 

[pmuller9]

As you already know you are trying to get the rocker arm roller tip to travel across the center of the valve stem top.
You can use a black permanent marker or black paint to paint the end of the valve stem top.
The picture below shows the result of a centered pattern.

However, the first obstacle you have is to bottom out the hydraulic lifter, so the valve starts to open immediately as the cam lobe begins to push the lifter upward.
I see you have adjustable rocker arms.
I there enough rocker arm adjustment to bottom out the lifter when the lifter is all the way down on the heel of the cam lobe?

 

[Goldie]

I there enough rocker arm adjustment to bottom out the lifter when the lifter is all the way down on the heel of the cam lobe?

Yes, the lifter does bottom out. When we set up the first set of valves, the contact patch we had was off-center and was more toward the distributor side of the engine. In reading how to make adjustments for a contact patch that is off center, it appears that we either need a shim/washer of some sort or need to shave material off of the rocker spacers. We did not get shims/washers with the Yella Terra RR's so aren't sure what can be used in place of, or if we need to go the opposite way and take material off of the spacer. Thinking of physics (which I'm definitely no expert in), it would seem the angle of the rocker would have more of a pitch if we were to add a spacer, thereby making the contact point even more offset toward the distributor side. Am I thinking this right? If so, then we probably have to lower the spacer. Don't want to destroy these spacers or these RR's in any way, so looking for advise before we go any further. My husband is performing this work. I'm just here for moral support.

 

[pmuller9]

When you say distributor side, is that the same as the pushrod side of the engine?

 

[Goldie]

When you say distributor side, is that the same as the pushrod side of the engine?

Yes.

 

[pmuller9]

Yes.

If the pattern is towards the pushrod side of the valve stem, then you need to raise the rocker arms by adding shims.
Use washers temporarily to find the correct height.

How tall are the spacers?

 

[100_2023]

*

 

[Goldie]

Thanks for the details Darrell.

If the pattern is towards the pushrod side of the valve stem, then you need to raise the rocker arms by adding shims.
Use washers temporarily to find the correct height.

How tall are the spacers?

Thank you! We will add thin spacers to start.

 

[Goldie]

Thank you! We will add thin washers to start. Appreciate the help.

 

[Goldie]

One final question: If we find the appropriate washers that will give us the correct contact patch, are there spacers made out of a specific material that we should be using? Since they will only be used to increase height, and will never see wear, does material even matter? I am going to my local hardware store today to look for very thin hardened washers, if I can find. Could those remain permanent if they work? Don't know where to get Yella Terra shims otherwise. Thanks again for all the help PMuller9 & Super4ord!

 

[pmuller9]

The washers can be made from any type of steel.

The problem with using a washer permanently is most washers are stamped and have a slight curve.
If you look at a washer you will see that one side of the washer's outer edge is curved while the other side has a sharp edge.
If the washer is larger in diameter than the rocker stands then the outer curved part of the washer is beyond the stand and should be ok.
Install the washer with the curved side up and the sharp edge side down.
You will want to file or sand the bottom of the washer to remove the sharp edge, so the washer's bottom side is flat.

 

[Goldie]

Thank you Pmuller9. I did order some custom shims today with 5/16 ID and 5/8 OD and .020” thickness. Std washers were going to be too thick. These match our ID perfectly and will be slightly larger OD than our rocker spacer. Because they are labeled shims Vs washers, I’m guessing they may not have the beveled edge on the one side. Fingers crossed! I really appreciate all your help.

 

[Goldie]

Hello PMuller9. We received the shims for the roller rockers yesterday. Installed, and adjusted the first set of valves to the yella Terra roller rockers. The contact patch is near perfect, however, there now is not enough thread for the adjusting nut to lock the rocker down. Not sure what we need to do now. Any suggestions? Here are a couple of pics.

 

[pmuller9]

Hi Goldie
Nice work!
You need to get longer pushrods which is almost always the case with higher rocker arms.
It looks like the pushrods should be longer by the thickness of the locking nut so you have about the same amount of threads above the nut as is showing now above the washer.

How many turns of preload do you have from zero lash on the lifters?

 

[Goldie]

Hi Goldie
Nice work!
You need to get longer pushrods which is almost always the case with higher rocker arms.
It looks like the pushrods should be longer by the thickness of the locking nut so you have about the same amount of threads above the nut as is showing now above the washer.

How many turns of preload do you have from zero lash on the lifters?

Thank you! We went about 1/8-1/4 turn after you could barely turn the pushrod. That’s without lifters being pumped up.

We have new longer pushrods on the way!

 

[pmuller9]

Thank you! We went about 1/8-1/4 turn after you could barely turn the pushrod. That’s without lifters being pumped up.

I just want to verify what you mean by "could barely turn the pushrod".

The adjuster needs to take up the slack so the pushrod no longer can click up and down between the lifter and the rocker arm.
You should be able to turn the pushrod freely between the ends of your fingers.
If you turn the adjuster any further, you can feel a slight resistance as the pushrod begins to push the lifter plunger down away from the retaining clip.
The adjusting nut is tightened another 1/2 turn from there.
This should push the lifter plunger down about .075" from the retaining clip.
At that point you should be able to pull up on the roller tip of the rocker arm which will bottom out the lifter plunger if the lifters are dry inside.

 

[Goldie]

PMuller9, many thanks. I probably wasn’t explaining myself correctly. Shared this with Gary and he said what you’ve just described is what he will do. That’s the clarification we were looking for. Hope to have our new pushrods in the next few days so we can finish assembly.

The knowledge you guys possess, and your willingness to share, is so greatly appreciated! Thank you again!

 

[drag-200stang]

Just a reminder, you ordered oil-through push rods, right? and you have oil through lifters already to go with the new rocker setup.