The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve directs a small amount of exhaust gases back into the inlet air charge, and lowers the maximum temperature of the burning fuel.
The valve ensures the EGR system is disabled at idle, when it would otherwise lead to erratic idling, and at peak power, when adding exhaust gases would reduce power output.
The EGR valve is likely to stick and become coked up on some applications.
Something is horribly wrong if your performance is that poor. Have you cleaned your MAF sensor lately?On an 1996 OBD-2 300, will a Moates allow me to tune for both performance & (reasonable) mpg if I go with a 7psi turbo setup?
Will my EGR system function like normal with a Moates on a turbo setup?(I ask because it seems like obd2 fords mpg take a crap when the egr isnt working properly)
It will be in a 4,000lb daily-driven 2wd truck w/5-speed/3.55 gears/29" tires. I dont race it & I dont normally tow with it. But I find myself having to wind out to (a blistering redline of) 3,700 rpms in every gear to keep up with traffic.
Not too shabby! Seems like she's running right. Some 31" tires would help make it feel less squirrely and make better use of the lower RPM range. Probably gain 1mpg as well if you don't get an aggressive tread.I cleaned it. And did a very basic test of it while driving with the Torque Lite app. I'm open to any info on how to test it further.
Compared to other guys on f150 forums, it seems like mine is quicker than other 300s. But compared to many modern vehicles, my truck is a slow turd that struggles to keep up in traffic.
In the video with the E4od it did 0-60 in 10 seconds (Now it has a m5od manual when the e4od got too problematic & expensive). I feel that its quick for a 1996 truck, but slow for 2021 traffic.
It's all gearing man. If I floored my truck on the highway I would easily do a hundred plus miles per hour I don't think the work vans are going that fast. You need bigger tires or taller gears if you want to go faster with a 3500 RPM top end. Gear vendors over and under drive might be a nice addition if you have deep pockets.The truck is fairly quick for what it is: a 90's 6cyl pickup. But its no match for how fast & aggressive the traffic is in parts if Florida. Even guys in work vans fly around me when I ave my truck floored.
Thanks for all the info.
When you mention the TAB/TAD/AIR having to be functional, do you mean for emissions? Or that by removing it will effect the ECU operation?...I thought the AIR was only used on startup to keep the catylitic convertor from clogging. But does it also play a role when the vehicle is warm?
I think I am understanding now. Before you said you could not keep up in traffic. Accelerating up an onramp is a different story. Having the MAF setup makes it easier to turbo without much modification. You can (if tuning yourself) simply turn off the EGR feedback functions while keeping egr functional. Another thing to consider is the stock MAF sensor is limited to ~250hp.I was up to 75mph on a long on-ramp last nite & could not keep up with the workvan in front of me. He pulled away from me in a cloud of dust.
Cargo vans nowadays are just as fast as a 1990's Mustang GT. Some will do low-15 second 1/4 mile times