To the last four blokes or ladies or whatever who wanted info on the 500 cfm to Weber ADM 34 XE/XF manifold swap, well, sorry, I've been piddling about.
Depression from loosing the World Cup Rugby, perhaps. Sorry, no excuse.
Here's what I've been telling them:
My dual fuel LPG/Petrol Falcon XE 4.1 was a real slug when I got it. Changing to the better sole fuel Impco carb and the manifold alterations made the biggest difference I've ever felt on a stock engine. It already had the better Heatseaker cam, but with stock carb and a restrictive Landi-Hartog mixer, it was such a dog. The good air cleaner and headers were things that made another leap forward.
The fuel economy and power improved, and my wife just loved the awesome low-end torque. Compared to my friends pertol EFI XE Fairmont Ghia auto, it was about 2 seconds faster over the quarter, and much nicer on the open road.
Here's a post I gave last night to another dude wanting info on the Holley 500cfm swap. Still getting my crap together, hang in there...
The 2300 to 5200 Redline adaptor is #1890, from memory, about 43 dollars in NZ in 1997. It just a big alloy plate. You grab a stock nylon ADM 34 carby spacer, and drill the alloy Redline adaptor to the Weber 93.5 by 46 mm spacings. These get four counter sunk screws bolted to the intake (you have to double nut and remove the stock ones first). Then you get some alloy platem, and make 3 plates about 100 deap, by 20 mm thick, and around 165 mm long.
You drill these to the same stud pattern as the manifolds for groups of cylinders 1/2, 3/4, and 5/6. This allows you to fit the auto choke on the stock manifold without hitting the rocker cover. Once this is done, you must use stock manifold to head bolts, but 20 mm longer. The middle ones for 3/4 cylinders are longer than the outer bolts. You'll need to bend the dipstick holder straight, to clear the intake manifold once its been shifted out. There is enough room to take the dizzy cap off, no worries there.
There is another very important step. The number 3 cylinder intake port has a bolt boss which can touch the Holley adaptor. I just filled it down 2 mm, and added two counter sunk bolts on the rocker cover side of the carb. You end up with four counter sunk screws on the top of the adaptor, to mount to the Weber manifold, and two on the manifold side, pointing up, to allow for space for the manifold bolts. The manifold gets bolted on, then the adaptor.
Then mount up the manifold, and carb. Use a Valiant Hemi 245/265 throttle bracket if you are using a BW auto, or any kind of spring loaded type. You need to have an additional return spring to ensure the Holley carb goes right back to kerb idle. The cable needs to be a custom Truck cable, with a very smooth inner, or the throttle will be too heavy. It must have the later style spring on the end, not the Valiant calmped end. I just had the bracket hooked on the two passenger side bolts beside the spring tower, and made a bracket to hold the Chrysler item.
Length is approx 1.38 to 1.435 m, and use the Valiant VH bushes to clamp the cable to the firewall, on the prongs that are used to hold the air conditioning evaporator line.
The kickdown cable is a bit of work...just a Valiant auto kickdown cable.
If you don't got one, you don't got a problem!
The stock EGR, the stock emmisions and vacum ports, no need for the anti-dieselling solenoid but you may want to use the electric choke link. Depends on what your 500 4412 part number carb comes with.
The intake can use a little radius work to allow the manifold to breath better right under the carb. The 500 Holley is about 3 to 6mm bigger in platform than the 34 ADM.
The aircleaner can be a Ryco a391, a stock Impco/Dodge 318 truck number. Its about 259 by 76mm, with a 188mm centre. It huge, flows meduim well. It's size is the key to performance. Anything smaller, even a K&N, will restrict the engine. That should fit, but do be carefull there is enough clearnace. There is only 185 mm from the manifold to the roof of the bonnet. No slam tactics
In terms of power, no contest. The 500 is a bull-terrier, not a little Italian Mouse.
Hope this helps. I'd personally buy reco'd. The jets should be about 70 with an 8.5 power valve. That will give about 160 hp for a start. Then jet up to either 71, 72, 73 or 74. If its got a good, sound basic engine tune, cam, header, ignition and compression, 175 hp is a dead certainty. There is bulk extra power to come from a perfect cam choice. The stock head has very small ports but perfect profiles, and the cam is vital to make it flow up to its potential. Dick Johnston says 196 hp. I'd say 220 with a perfect cam producing power reving to 4800 to a 5400 rpm peak. There's much more if you do some modificaions to the bottom end and rocker gear, but I'm going overboard again.
Love Ford sixes, something I can afford to thrash!
Depression from loosing the World Cup Rugby, perhaps. Sorry, no excuse.
Here's what I've been telling them:
My dual fuel LPG/Petrol Falcon XE 4.1 was a real slug when I got it. Changing to the better sole fuel Impco carb and the manifold alterations made the biggest difference I've ever felt on a stock engine. It already had the better Heatseaker cam, but with stock carb and a restrictive Landi-Hartog mixer, it was such a dog. The good air cleaner and headers were things that made another leap forward.
The fuel economy and power improved, and my wife just loved the awesome low-end torque. Compared to my friends pertol EFI XE Fairmont Ghia auto, it was about 2 seconds faster over the quarter, and much nicer on the open road.
Here's a post I gave last night to another dude wanting info on the Holley 500cfm swap. Still getting my crap together, hang in there...
The 2300 to 5200 Redline adaptor is #1890, from memory, about 43 dollars in NZ in 1997. It just a big alloy plate. You grab a stock nylon ADM 34 carby spacer, and drill the alloy Redline adaptor to the Weber 93.5 by 46 mm spacings. These get four counter sunk screws bolted to the intake (you have to double nut and remove the stock ones first). Then you get some alloy platem, and make 3 plates about 100 deap, by 20 mm thick, and around 165 mm long.
You drill these to the same stud pattern as the manifolds for groups of cylinders 1/2, 3/4, and 5/6. This allows you to fit the auto choke on the stock manifold without hitting the rocker cover. Once this is done, you must use stock manifold to head bolts, but 20 mm longer. The middle ones for 3/4 cylinders are longer than the outer bolts. You'll need to bend the dipstick holder straight, to clear the intake manifold once its been shifted out. There is enough room to take the dizzy cap off, no worries there.
There is another very important step. The number 3 cylinder intake port has a bolt boss which can touch the Holley adaptor. I just filled it down 2 mm, and added two counter sunk bolts on the rocker cover side of the carb. You end up with four counter sunk screws on the top of the adaptor, to mount to the Weber manifold, and two on the manifold side, pointing up, to allow for space for the manifold bolts. The manifold gets bolted on, then the adaptor.
Then mount up the manifold, and carb. Use a Valiant Hemi 245/265 throttle bracket if you are using a BW auto, or any kind of spring loaded type. You need to have an additional return spring to ensure the Holley carb goes right back to kerb idle. The cable needs to be a custom Truck cable, with a very smooth inner, or the throttle will be too heavy. It must have the later style spring on the end, not the Valiant calmped end. I just had the bracket hooked on the two passenger side bolts beside the spring tower, and made a bracket to hold the Chrysler item.
Length is approx 1.38 to 1.435 m, and use the Valiant VH bushes to clamp the cable to the firewall, on the prongs that are used to hold the air conditioning evaporator line.
The kickdown cable is a bit of work...just a Valiant auto kickdown cable.
If you don't got one, you don't got a problem!
The stock EGR, the stock emmisions and vacum ports, no need for the anti-dieselling solenoid but you may want to use the electric choke link. Depends on what your 500 4412 part number carb comes with.
The intake can use a little radius work to allow the manifold to breath better right under the carb. The 500 Holley is about 3 to 6mm bigger in platform than the 34 ADM.
The aircleaner can be a Ryco a391, a stock Impco/Dodge 318 truck number. Its about 259 by 76mm, with a 188mm centre. It huge, flows meduim well. It's size is the key to performance. Anything smaller, even a K&N, will restrict the engine. That should fit, but do be carefull there is enough clearnace. There is only 185 mm from the manifold to the roof of the bonnet. No slam tactics
In terms of power, no contest. The 500 is a bull-terrier, not a little Italian Mouse.
Hope this helps. I'd personally buy reco'd. The jets should be about 70 with an 8.5 power valve. That will give about 160 hp for a start. Then jet up to either 71, 72, 73 or 74. If its got a good, sound basic engine tune, cam, header, ignition and compression, 175 hp is a dead certainty. There is bulk extra power to come from a perfect cam choice. The stock head has very small ports but perfect profiles, and the cam is vital to make it flow up to its potential. Dick Johnston says 196 hp. I'd say 220 with a perfect cam producing power reving to 4800 to a 5400 rpm peak. There's much more if you do some modificaions to the bottom end and rocker gear, but I'm going overboard again.
Love Ford sixes, something I can afford to thrash!