Build Thread Which oil for Rebuilt 200ci

[Fred C]

I'm sure this has been discussed many times here but I can't find the info on this subject. I just picked up my rebuilt 66 200 ci from my engine rebuilder. Complete rebuild with valve job new pistons, rings, bored block 30 over, surfaced block, head & exhaust, replaced head bolts, turned crankshaft, 256H Clay Smith cam & lifters, Comp springs, all bearings, rebuild rods, install brass freeze plugs, oil pump & shaft, timing chain & gear set. So needless to say I want to make sure I run the correct oil for this engine.
I am using what my builder recommended to use for the break in oil which is Lucas 30w Engine Break In oil. As for the regular oil changes he didn't really recommend any particular brand of oil just use10w-30 conventional and he did recommend after the break in oil and for the oil regular oil changes to add 1 quart of Lucas oil Heavy Duty Stabilizer with each oil change. I read about ZDDP in oil and some are higher than others.
So what are some recommendations from this forum.

Thanks,
Fred C

 

[Frank]

Fred I'm not going to "recommend" an oil. With that said, about 40 years ago I found that Valvoline conventional oil kept engines completely clean internally, and all have had excellent life. It's all I use in the Conventional oils. Latest example: have a non-commercial 2009 John Deere lawn tractor at work, used in a commercial application, run daily 5 days a week. Has a Kawasaki V-2 engine with 11,200 hours on it. Well maintained, engine all original, uses no oil still runs like new. Use only Valvoline Conventional 10w-40 from the start. (No Lucas).
Lucas Oil Stabilizer: this is a good product, used it in a fleet of semi truck engines, trans and rears. I use it in cars, but @ 10%, not the 25% your mechanic is suggesting. . . IMO a fresh engine does not need that high a % of Lucas. A 5 quart crankcase= 1 pint (16oz) Lucas.
All FYI.
Thumbs-up on the fresh 200! Nice!

 

[wsa111]

I recommend Penn Brand 10W-30. Its a semi-synthic oil will all the good stuff, zzdp +. It also has detergent to keep the engine clean for street driving. See my post on 1 QT. oil filters & you will then have a 5 QT. oil change.
Motorcraft FL-299
Fram PH977A
Napa 1773
Wix 51773
AC PF-42
Purolator L40017
All of the above hold 1/2 QT. more than the regular filter, resulting in a 5QT. oil change.

 

[Fred C]

Thanks for the replies fellas.
I appreciate the insight on the Lucas oil Stabilizer by only using 1 pint (16 oz) for a 5 qt crankcase. I have been told that I should not use a synthetic oil in my engine. Why is that? What is semi-synthetic oil and is a good tried and true oil to use in the 200 ci and is it better than a conventional oil. Whatever oil I choose should it have a minimum amount of ZDDP that I have read so much about? There is lots of things to learn about these engines - lol
I'm 71 years old and have always been around and worked on cars but this is the first Ford Inline Six I have ever been around or much less owned and just the kind of guy that like to cross his "T's" and dot his "I's" if you know what I mean.

 

[Frank]

Thanks for the replies fellas.
I appreciate the insight on the Lucas oil Stabilizer by only using 1 pint (16 oz) for a 5 qt crankcase. I have been told that I should not use a synthetic oil in my engine. Why is that? What is semi-synthetic oil and is a good tried and true oil to use in the 200 ci and is it better than a conventional oil. Whatever oil I choose should it have a minimum amount of ZDDP that I have read so much about? There is lots of things to learn about these engines - lol
I'm 71 years old and have always been around and worked on cars but this is the first Ford Inline Six I have ever been around or much less owned and just the kind of guy that like to cross his "T's" and dot his "I's" if you know what I mean.

Someone may disagree with me here- synthetic oil is not "better" than a quality conventional. Synthetic's benefits are, better heat control- more ability to withstand temps in the 300* range. A moot point in a properly cooled street engine. Also, it lasts longer, it can hold more combustion byproducts. I switched to Mobil 1 syn a few years ago after my son (in-the-know engine guy) kept sharing his good results with it. It's now used in 3 of 4 vehicles, two 300 Fords, and a stock '04 V8 Dodge. The 4th vehicle, a still-original-internals '59 flathead 6 will remain with conventional. On this engine, modern conventional is already a big swing in oil chemistry over the non-detergent it started life with, and it had been parked with 40 year old oil in it when I got it. Going to synthetic is too radical a change for this specific application IMO.
Conventional oil does not loose it's lubricating properties under normal conditions, it just gets dirty. Change an automotive engine oil and filter every 100 hours with quality conventional oil and it lasts. I change the oil filter at 100 hours, twice- and run synthetic oil 300 hours or more before draining. So in that way, it's cheaper than conventional.

Regardless of what you choose, I will recommend that you choose a brand and stay with it. Mixing brands can cause chemical imbalances- I know this first-hand, but won't belabor with details. Changes in oil chemistry (changing brands) has wiped crank bearings twice and once caused a piston skirt to sluff off. Learned the hard way- use what the engine likes: determined by clean internals, low mechanical noise, low/no oil consumption- and don't let cost, advertising OR another person's results cause it to change on your engine.

 

[chad]

do the immediate 1st change after the initial break in. Do nother change at bout 500 mi, follow standard break in proceedures (like head'n exh. re-tq). ck oil in good light, w/fingers, notice deposits, pour it ona white rag or towel to see. The oil is no big deal:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/forums/used-oil-analysis-gasoline.3/

read science & tec bullitins if concerned. You'll throw out a lotta good oil for proper 'break in'. I used rotella t-4 (10-30) by the gal (diesel oil has the additives U R concerned abt). Less than 16$/gal.
SHELL ROTELLA T4 10W-30 API CK-4, CJ-4; JASO DH-2;
After break-in I say: change it at 3 to 5K mi (or 6 mo) w/a Fram or WIX new filter (other name brand - only 3,4 makers world wide now), 10w-30 winter, 10W-40 summer. THAT is the big deal. Just like the lead we usta add to our earlier tech motors when they took it out; I C no need for the ZDDP. Ck our oil threads here for combined wisdom AND
suit yourself !

 

[wsa111]

do the immediate 1st change after the initial break in. Do nother change at bout 500 mi, follow standard break in proceedures (like head'n exh. re-tq). ck oil in good light, w/fingers, notice deposits, pour it ona white rag or towel to see. The oil is no big deal:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/forums/used-oil-analysis-gasoline.3/

read science & tec bullitins if concerned. You'll throw out a lotta good oil for proper 'break in'. I used rotella t-4 (10-30) by the gal (diesel oil has the additives U R concerned abt). Less than 16$/gal.
SHELL ROTELLA T4 10W-30 API CK-4, CJ-4; JASO DH-2;
After break-in I say: change it at 3 to 5K mi (or 6 mo) w/a Fram or WIX new filter (other name brand - only 3,4 makers world wide now), 10w-30 winter, 10W-40 summer. THAT is the big deal. Just like the lead we usta add to our earlier tech motors when they took it out; I C no need for the ZDDP. Ck our oil threads here for combined wisdom AND
suit yourself !

Chad, our old engines need oil with zzdp + to prevent wear in the camshaft area.
All you need is 10W-30 with a Motorcraft FL-299 1 QT filter so you then have a 5 QT. oil change.

 

[Fred C]

Thanks everyone for your input and advise on this. After reading much about what these inline sixes need I decided on using Valvoline VR1 10w30 Conventional oil which has the ZDDP in it and which I believe is needed on these old engines to keep them properly lubricated. I ordered this oil from "shopvalvoline@global.com" where they give you 10% discount off of $9.99 per Qt. for any order of 4 or more quarts plus free shipping. This was less than the local parts stores that even stock it.

 

[Frank]

Thanks everyone for your input and advise on this. After reading much about what these inline sixes need I decided on using Valvoline VR1 10w30 Conventional oil which has the ZDDP in it and which I believe is needed on these old engines to keep them properly lubricated. I ordered this oil from "shopvalvoline@global.com" where they give you 10% discount off of $9.99 per Qt. for any order of 4 or more quarts plus free shipping. This was less than the local parts stores that even stock it.

An excellent choice.

 

[chad]

the rotella (white jug "T4") would B readily avail, cheeper yet: Advance, NAPA 19$, & 4$ less at 1 I dont recomment (Wally's world. There'n Amizone I avoid even @ better prices outa values'n ethics. I vote w/my money). Remember: 'flat tappet'.

Rotella T4 Gas and Diesel Engine Oils

Shell Rotella® T4 diesel oils protect a variety of heavy duty low-emission vehicles. Wide range performance. Read customer reviews for 15W40 or 10W30 viscosity.

rotella.shell.com

As above:
"...read (the) science & tec bullitins (from the oil industry) if concerned..."
"...SHELL ROTELLA T4 10W-30 API CK-4, CJ-4; JASO DH-2..."
OCI & 1 of the better (not even 'best') filters by the remaining 3, 4 international manafacturers (they just spray a different cover on 'em for retailers). WIX'n Fram I like (middle models).