Plese PM me with your figures, and I'll add them to the chart. If you want to have the spreadsheet itself, please PM your email, or email me: tony-salazar@excite.com
Click link to go to Photobucket: http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/FamiliaSalazar/Cartech/HWJetting052809-1.jpg
HWs come with two basic styles of throttle shaft levers. If the ball is to the right of the pivot/shaft, cut off the tab with the ball and have it welded to the left of the pivot point. Make sure it is a little to the left of center, or the pushrod won't be able to activate it. My linkage works, but the ball on the lever is too far left, causing too steep an angle. Needed to bend Z Bar so rod socket doesn't pop off lower ball. Might also want to reverse the positions of the ball & spring holes. Have the lever made with the ball a little closer to the pivot point, in order to reduce the angle on the adjustment rod. Not perfect; but it works is simple; and allows you to retain the auto tranny kickdown linkage.
Tom Langdon at Stovebolt never heard of Fordsix, and doesn't sound interested in knowing. I think it was jamyers who mentioned that it might be possible to talk to Tom and get specific jets in a carb. Tom categorically denies ever doing that, or even considering it. He is not the rebuilder, and won't even tell me what jets are in the carb he'll ship me. (Trust me, I am a pretty good "interviewer," and I couldn't shake him.) He offers a new carb for $85, instead of a used one for $65. It has the stock water heated choke. He sells an electric choke conversion for $10. The electric choke wire is hooked directly to the "On" side of the ignition switch. You won't know what part # carb I bought until you open the box. You won't know what jets are in it until you look inside. The major criteria for selecting the carb that will be shipped is the throttle linkage. He did go on at great length cautioning me not to trust any information I got off the Internet, and was not one bit interested in whatever data we have compiled. (I'm not criticizing, just reporting.) He did make an interesting point. The 70s carbs were jetted for the convenience of the catalytic converters, and are, therefore, on the rich side out of the box. When I asked if the carb would be suitable for my specific engine configuration, he told me there was no such thing as a carb made for that, but whatever they send me should work out of the box, then perhaps I could start making adjustments in small increments jetwise. He stated that anybody who has to start swapping jets does so because he has a defective carb.
FWIW: If you need a new or rebuilt Holley Weber at a good price, call Tom at Stovebolt. If you need to discuss technical specs, don't. He did state that the Primary Fuel Jet should be about 135, and the Secondary should be larger. That's about as specific as he got.
Air cleaners: jamyers: (Pinto/Mustang II Base)
EMPI Air Cleaner from Chirco ($16.95 on Ebay):
Mr. Gasket Part # 1488 base and cleaner
Click link to go to Photobucket: http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg54/FamiliaSalazar/Cartech/HWJetting052809-1.jpg
HWs come with two basic styles of throttle shaft levers. If the ball is to the right of the pivot/shaft, cut off the tab with the ball and have it welded to the left of the pivot point. Make sure it is a little to the left of center, or the pushrod won't be able to activate it. My linkage works, but the ball on the lever is too far left, causing too steep an angle. Needed to bend Z Bar so rod socket doesn't pop off lower ball. Might also want to reverse the positions of the ball & spring holes. Have the lever made with the ball a little closer to the pivot point, in order to reduce the angle on the adjustment rod. Not perfect; but it works is simple; and allows you to retain the auto tranny kickdown linkage.
Tom Langdon at Stovebolt never heard of Fordsix, and doesn't sound interested in knowing. I think it was jamyers who mentioned that it might be possible to talk to Tom and get specific jets in a carb. Tom categorically denies ever doing that, or even considering it. He is not the rebuilder, and won't even tell me what jets are in the carb he'll ship me. (Trust me, I am a pretty good "interviewer," and I couldn't shake him.) He offers a new carb for $85, instead of a used one for $65. It has the stock water heated choke. He sells an electric choke conversion for $10. The electric choke wire is hooked directly to the "On" side of the ignition switch. You won't know what part # carb I bought until you open the box. You won't know what jets are in it until you look inside. The major criteria for selecting the carb that will be shipped is the throttle linkage. He did go on at great length cautioning me not to trust any information I got off the Internet, and was not one bit interested in whatever data we have compiled. (I'm not criticizing, just reporting.) He did make an interesting point. The 70s carbs were jetted for the convenience of the catalytic converters, and are, therefore, on the rich side out of the box. When I asked if the carb would be suitable for my specific engine configuration, he told me there was no such thing as a carb made for that, but whatever they send me should work out of the box, then perhaps I could start making adjustments in small increments jetwise. He stated that anybody who has to start swapping jets does so because he has a defective carb.
FWIW: If you need a new or rebuilt Holley Weber at a good price, call Tom at Stovebolt. If you need to discuss technical specs, don't. He did state that the Primary Fuel Jet should be about 135, and the Secondary should be larger. That's about as specific as he got.
Air cleaners: jamyers: (Pinto/Mustang II Base)
EMPI Air Cleaner from Chirco ($16.95 on Ebay):
Mr. Gasket Part # 1488 base and cleaner
I suggest that you'll be better off with a professionally cleaned and rebuilt carb.
