66' 200 - replacing lifters / cylinder head questions

60sMustang

60sMustang

Well-known member
So, in 2 other threads I've got great advise on a valve ticking noise I was having and how to pull the head from my motor. While its off I want to replace all the lifters also, because I'm not sure if they were part of the valve ticking noise problem since its non-adjustable rocker arms.

Questions:
- Do I need to do anything special to the lifters or inside the block before installing them? Other than soak them in oil so they fill up.

-Anything else recommended to do while the head is off and engine is torn down? Doing a complete valve job, paint job, port divider in exhaust port, getting the header ceramic coated. Also just did a carb rebuild recently, so its fresh too.

- Other than removing all the old gasket material and carbon build up from the block/pistons. Any other prep needed before reinstalling the head, after lifters are done obviously.

Sorry for starting a new thread but the others were not getting much activity.

Thanks again for all the help!
 
CC the chambers for volume and mill the head to compensate for your new head gasket to achieve the desired compression ratio.
 
They are checking the CC's at the machine shop. I'm using the Fel-pro gasket that is .050 crush thickness. I've read the stock gasket was .025 so I'm basing my milling amount off these numbers after getting the CC's. Also using .010 as a number for 2 CC's if they check out less than 52.
 
To me, the cost of a new camshaft is fairly insignificant compared to the work required to pull the carb, exhaust, and head off, and remove the lifters.

Are you currently running the best possible camshaft for your engine? If not, this is an ideal time to replace the camshaft while you have the head off and lifters out. Even an absolutely stock engine could benefit from a mild performance cam. You could replace the timing chain as well unless you are certain it is sound.

Thanks
Bob
 
Howdy 60sMustang and All:

Add a back cut to the intake valves, in addition to, at least, a three angle valve seat. Later heads got 1.75" intake valves, but that will raise the cost for a small increase in flow with out a better cam.

You're pretty much on target with the rest of your plan. What carb/ distributor are you using? What is likely to be the typical use for this engine?

Keep us posted on your choices and your progress.

Adios, David
 
Yeah for a bit more work and expense you could have a pretty good increase in power with a mild cam and valve work. Now is the time to do it and increase the fun factor of driving as long as you own it. You could fit a 250 carb later on for another increase.
 
It's never a good idea to replace lifters and not the camshaft as well, or vice versa. If you think about it, one component will not have wear and other one will not, they will both have some amount of it if not equally. Its like a ring gear and pinion or a gear drive timing set, you can't replace just one of the components and expect it to be restored to like new condition.
 
Howdy Back:

Oh, and a set of adjustable rocker arms. They might have solved your original ticking problem. A used set of adjustable rockers and pushrods should be had for under $50. Give it a good cleaning and away you go- tickless.

Adios, David
 
CZLN6":21uxsqp3 said:
Howdy 60sMustang and All:

Add a back cut to the intake valves, in addition to, at least, a three angle valve seat. Later heads got 1.75" intake valves, but that will raise the cost for a small increase in flow with out a better cam.

You're pretty much on target with the rest of your plan. What carb/ distributor are you using? What is likely to be the typical use for this engine?

Keep us posted on your choices and your progress.

Adios, David
Click to expand...

What is a "back cut" to the valves?

They are doing a 3 angle valve job, not switching to larger valves though.

The carb is stock Autolite 1100 and distributor with Pertronix ingnition.

Just driver use, may add a 2v carb at some point and possibly T5 trans. No plans set in stone though.
 
62Ranchero200":2r2xo7ub said:
To me, the cost of a new camshaft is fairly insignificant compared to the work required to pull the carb, exhaust, and head off, and remove the lifters.

Are you currently running the best possible camshaft for your engine? If not, this is an ideal time to replace the camshaft while you have the head off and lifters out. Even an absolutely stock engine could benefit from a mild performance cam. You could replace the timing chain as well unless you are certain it is sound.

Thanks
Bob
Click to expand...

Thanks for the ideas on the cam and timing chain. I've considered both but just hadn't decided for sure yet.

What are your thoughts on selecting a cam? Stock engine with autolite 1100 carb and Pertonix ignition in stock distributor. May do a 2v carb and DUI at some point down the road and T5 trans.

Are the stock lifters, pushrods and rocker(non-adjustable) still used if I change the cam?

Also, can the cam be changed without pulling the block?
 
The pushrods and rockers can be reused with no problem, but you should never reuse used lifters when replacing a new cam, or vice versa.
 
60sMustang":o3y2opjn said:
CZLN6":o3y2opjn said:
Howdy 60sMustang and All:

Add a back cut to the intake valves, in addition to, at least, a three angle valve seat. Later heads got 1.75" intake valves, but that will raise the cost for a small increase in flow with out a better cam.

You're pretty much on target with the rest of your plan. What carb/ distributor are you using? What is likely to be the typical use for this engine?

Keep us posted on your choices and your progress.

Adios, David
Click to expand...

What is a "back cut" to the valves?

They are doing a 3 angle valve job, not switching to larger valves though.

The carb is stock Autolite 1100 and distributor with Pertronix ingnition.

Just driver use, may add a 2v carb at some point and possibly T5 trans. No plans set in stone though.
Click to expand...
After the intake valves are resurfaced & the seats are resurfaced, lap in the intake valves till you have a lap in mark the width of the seat on the valve. Then using a 30 degree setting on the valve grinder take the 30 degree grind down to the inner line seat in on the valve.
 
"...Also, can the cam be changed without pulling the block?…"
A cam is a long rod w/lobes cut to coordinate/time valves. I'm not sure what vehicle U have but after dissambling the frnt of the engine a cam can B drawn out thru that area. It is so long the radiator must B removed.
Again, not sure on ur vehicle but a hole can B easily cut in the grill to continue drawing it out / replacing w/new one. However, most don't have the equip/know how to do so. In my mind it is a good idea for JUST a cam replacement (as above Always lifters/cam together) while U R taking off the head/machining & doing other wrk, I believe (I'm following a coupla guys threads here & get y'all mixed up, sorry).
HTH,
 
CNC-Dude":1ooh5up1 said:
The pushrods and rockers can be reused with no problem, but you should never reuse used lifters when replacing a new cam, or vice versa.
Click to expand...

I didn't mean to reuse the old lifters, sorry. I meant would I use stock lifters or would something different be needed to match the cam I choose.
 
chad":hl9d815d said:
"...Also, can the cam be changed without pulling the block?…"
A cam is a long rod w/lobes cut to coordinate/time valves. I'm not sure what vehicle U have but after dissambling the frnt of the engine a cam can B drawn out thru that area. It is so long the radiator must B removed.
Again, not sure on ur vehicle but a hole can B easily cut in the grill to continue drawing it out / replacing w/new one. However, most don't have the equip/know how to do so. In my mind it is a good idea for JUST a cam replacement (as above Always lifters/cam together) while U R taking off the head/machining & doing other wrk, I believe (I'm following a coupla guys threads here & get y'all mixed up, sorry).
HTH,
Click to expand...

Its a 1966 Mustang. Also, I'm familiar with what the cam is/does, just wasn't sure how it would be pulled out of the front of the block without removing the block first. Seems like the radiator, front frame support and front air dam would be in the way.
 
Unless you are pressed for time to get this Mustang back on the road you could get a copy of this book, link below, read it and just make sure of your plan. I refer to mine often and it will be a valuable resource for you I am sure, just as this forum is as these guys will give you invaluable information.
I think of the cam as the foundation for a performance build. If you are thinking T5 and other mods a mild cam would probably be extremely beneficial for you.
http://www.falcon6handbook.com
 
"...radiator, front frame support and front air dam would be in the way…."

just eyeball it frm the frnt. Fella used an air saw, it's better'n a wheel on a 4 inch grinder, glued the sheet metal back w/a tig welder. 0 post surgery scars noticeable in the end as he ground off visual welds and repainted. I thought it wuz pretty slick. These REAL mechanics and fabricaters all way surprise me w/what they can do. Time, tools, skills, knowledge, $, space to work, I got nonea it.

2X the other bronk driver - get the Handbook. You wont B sorry!
 
60sMustang":tp1cu7a5 said:
CNC-Dude":tp1cu7a5 said:
The pushrods and rockers can be reused with no problem, but you should never reuse used lifters when replacing a new cam, or vice versa.
Click to expand...

I didn't mean to reuse the old lifters, sorry. I meant would I use stock lifters or would something different be needed to match the cam I choose.
Click to expand...
Most cam companies offer cam and lifters as a kit, often at a reduced price compared to buying the components individually. Many companies won't honor a warranty unless you buy both the cam and lifters from them. In the event you have a lobe go away right off the bat(it happens more than you think), you may be out of luck getting help from them if you source the lifters from somewhere else.
 
60sMustang":3egrgn45 said:
62Ranchero200":3egrgn45 said:
To me, the cost of a new camshaft is fairly insignificant compared to the work required to pull the carb, exhaust, and head off, and remove the lifters.

Are you currently running the best possible camshaft for your engine? If not, this is an ideal time to replace the camshaft while you have the head off and lifters out. Even an absolutely stock engine could benefit from a mild performance cam. You could replace the timing chain as well unless you are certain it is sound.

Thanks
Bob
Click to expand...

Thanks for the ideas on the cam and timing chain. I've considered both but just hadn't decided for sure yet.

What are your thoughts on selecting a cam? Stock engine with autolite 1100 carb and Pertonix ignition in stock distributor. May do a 2v carb and DUI at some point down the road and T5 trans.

Are the stock lifters, pushrods and rocker(non-adjustable) still used if I change the cam?

Also, can the cam be changed without pulling the block?
Click to expand...

CI's cams - such as the 264/264/112 - may be too much cam for your engine without porting, headers and possibly more carburetion. Others on this site are more familiar with shorter duration cams from other companies like Crane, Comp Cams, etc.

I changed the cam in my '62 Ranchero without pulling the block (it had a 200 engine at the time). I had to pull the timing cover and chain, fan, water pump, radiator, and grille to do so. Wasn't really that hard once I had everything out of the way.

Thanks
Bob
 
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