All Small Six 1966 Mustang 200ci rebuild guidance

This relates to all small sixes

thaedge

New member
Hello all, I am taking on rebuilding my fathers first car a 1966 mustang that he bought when he was 18 and has been garaged and undriven for nearly 40 years. It has 38,000 original miles. The engine was of unknown status, and could not get to turn over by hand after soaking, so I pulled the engine and plan to have it machined etc before putting back together. It actually looks pretty good inside, I've torn apart much worse.... anyways might as well do some work and improvements while it is out.

200ci automatic 1966, everything is stock.

We want to keep it mostly stock, but make some improvements that will give it some more power for modern driving. I want this to be a fun car to take around town, not a perfect show pony.

I plan to put in flat top pistons, total seal piston rings, arp rod bolts, double roller timing chain on the bottom end.

I may put in a new cam - I could use some guidance on this, valve job, and any other recommendations while it is out? Adjustable rockers, valve springs etc..

As far as the carb, I think we want to keep it with the original style autolite, but it is my understanding that classic inlines offers a "universal 1v" carb that has some drivability improvements.

Ignition wise, I think we will upgrade to the DUI or similar systems

If you were in my shoes, with the engine out and torn down, how would you put it back together. Wanting to keep it budget friendly, easy to source, and mostly stock.

Thank you for all your help.
 
A 69+ large log cam has more duration.
I run an stock 69+ large log Enginetech 256 cam with a stock timing chain and sprockets.
I also run an HEI distributor that has no over or under shaft oiling problems.
Large plug gaps are not made for performance or reliability. I set my HEI plug gap at .032
A rebuilt Duraspark distributor can be a POS. I replaced a worn bushing rebuilt Duraspark with a new China HEI with the springs from an advance kit. Use the springs but not the weights.
I sent back a 260 Comp Cam because it had a .006 base circle run out for about 30 degrees.
The Enginetech 256 cam that I installed had 0 base circle run out.
You don't need adjustable rockers.
With an Autolite 1100 you will be under way under carbureted so you don't need a performance cam or any other speed parts.
The stock rods and bolts will be fine for an engine with an Autolite 1100 that most likely has a spark valve and a LOM distributor unless it is a California emission 66 200.
A large log 200 with a YF type carb has a lot more horse power. The large log also has an exhaust manifold with a 2" outlet.
If the engine will not turn over after soaking you will not be able to get the pistons, rods and crank out of it.
Forget about all the hyped speed parts and rebuild it stock with a non LOM distributor with an adjustable vacuum advance connected to maniflod vacuum or an LOM Autolite 1100 with the venturi advance port plugged.
 
I run an stock 69+ large log Enginetech 256 cam with a stock timing chain and sprockets.
Forget about all the hyped speed parts and rebuild it stock
^^X2. Especially with that low mileage. If the cylinders are undamaged from being seized, don't rebore it unless it's out of spec. Stock internals, 265 cam and ignition upgrade.
These era cars with a 6 of any make were not "powerful" by today's outlandish standards. The generation who appreciated locomotion that did not require a horse or a finicky model T were still around. The whole subconscious mindset of that era was different. To enjoy this vehicle, the mindset has to be inline with the modest performance personality that they are. OR you have to go all-out to make it "perform" into a modern imaginary standard. Trying to walk-the-fence by adding a few "high performance" parts to a small 6 will end as a disappointing waste of $. It will not perform like today's over-powered cars, that's not it's designed nature.
"Enjoy the journey".
 
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