Really need advice on adjustable rocker install!!

78 granada":32ydsc9r said:

I had to start a new thread on this one - a lot at steak!
As some may have read I installed my lifters after priming them with oil. Some pumped up manually more than others but I figured no big deal. Take the lash out with my new RAU adjustable rockers and then go a quarter or half turn and all good. I set the pushrods in place and then the rocker arm assembly. It became clear that even with the adjusters removed there was not enough clearance to tighten down the towers and assembly without engaging and compressing some of the pushrods with the adjusterless rockers! I did a lot of work on getting the right components with Larry from Clifford and help from Bob. Best advice was to use the adjusters installed but backed off, and with the pushrods and adjusters engaged, bolt the rocker assembly down as you would with hydraulics and not adjustables.

My motor was already at #1 TDC on compression. I took the lash out of both valves in #1 as well as the other valves that are good to adjust in that position. Then I turned it over manually to TDC for #6 and adjusted the rest. Now, everything SEEMINGLY adjusted I notice that the adjusters are not equally engaged or threaded in depth wise.

My questions are these: With everything in place and supposedly adjusted how can I start over? Once the lifters have bled can I turn it over and start the adjustment sequence again and not be affected by the various bleed of the lifters?

1. You can start over by tightening the adjusters a little more and keep repeating until you have bled everthing out. Yes at that point you could start the adjustment sequence over.

Does having to effectively tighten down the entire rocker arm assembly on the pushrods seem as wrong to you as it does to me?

2. It's not wrong it's just the way it has to be a this point. As long as you tighten each of the rockers mounting stands a little at a time working from center out until you get them so they can be torqued to spec.

Given what I describe am I likely to put a valve into a piston once the lifter pump up? I can turn it over no problem but the lifters are compressed to some degree. Seems to me that the pushrods may be too long but the cup dimension is correct.

3. How many other things did you change? IE like the Cam, the timing chain set, etc. example with a stock cam grind and a stock timing chain set at factory specs, stock type pistions, a block that is factory stock on the deck height, head milled .060 with a FelPro head gasket, then a valve is not going to hit the piston.

This is a common build; milled .060 but with the felpro I lost about half of that. Used head bolt washers to bring everything back.

Need big time help from the guys that have been there!!!!

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