All Small Six “Bullet proofing” or recommended block modifications before swap

This relates to all small sixes
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DrewbieTheNewbie

New member
Hello I’m new to the site and have a 1960 falcon that I want to replace the 144 with a 200 and I was wondering if there are any problems, quirks, or inefficiencies. That could or should be remedied before dropping the motor in. Any other suggestions in relation to the swap or car are welcome too this car is from a time long before me and I don’t have much experience with things like carburetors, distributors, and generators.
 
Hi, you could really get that 200 swapped in and running in 1 day, but, the Falcon engine has a very small exhaust pipe, and the exhaust pipe flange was changed from the flat style with a gasket, to a "donut" style in the early 60s. Other than that, how roadworthy is your Falcon? Also, are you planning to do any work on the 200 before you drop it in? Read our technical section and learn about the differences and evolution of the 6 cylinder engines, and figure out what you have. Good luck
 
I also have a 60 falcon. I am changing the 144 to a 200. My first suggestion is change the generator to an alternator. I installed a 10si three wire.
 
Install new timing chain. I recall there are two options for timing chains one being better so research that as I don't remember the details. Do you know the block casting code? It would be useful to know when the block was manufactured as there are some differences over the years. If the block is later than 64 you can get a better carb / distributor that what you have now.

 
That is one interesting thing I have been in contact with a guy that has one and it is a C4OE 6015 A and it has 5 freeze plugs which as far as I can tell from reading forums is a 200 with a 4 main crank. I’m not really in a rush go crazy with modifications and power right now so I’m not worried about it the bottom end and it’s cheap. Although I have heard that the 1/4 inch oil pump drive can be problematic and am wondering if I should be worried about that. My plan is to take it slow while experimenting and learning. I want to try different exhaust and intake setups to see how much I can help it breathe which may mean some head work further down the line. The head casting number is C3DE 6090 DX10
 
if the 200 comes with any acc'ys like gen/alt dist,coil it will determine needs to accommodate. If keeping early stuff brackets etc maydiffer.
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A C6 (1966) or later 200 block will give you more bellhousing attachment options, and so more transmission options. These blocks have a few different nicknames, "dual pattern" being a common one. As mentioned above, the early blocks have a smaller diameter distributor shaft, limiting your replacement options. They also only have four main bearings. The later seven main bearing block should be a more durable design.
 
TrickSix said:
A C6 (1966) or later 200 block will give you more bellhousing attachment options, and so more transmission options. These blocks have a few different nicknames, "dual pattern" being a common one. As mentioned above, the early blocks have a smaller diameter distributor shaft, limiting your replacement options. They also only have four main bearings. The later seven main bearing block should be a more durable design.
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I had not considered the transmission limitations of the earlier versions that is something else I need to figure out as the fordomatic is really limiting the smiles per mile
 
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Before you get too far, check exh. side of block, 200's will have 5 freeze plugs and 170's will have 3 freeze plugs. As mentioned, important block numbers are under exh. by starter , like C8DE or similar. Cylinder head number's are right behind carb on log manifold.
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later (@ 1966 up) 'dual drilled blocks' have the bellhouse pattern for small 3spd 2.77/2spd automatic and/or bigger 'Toploader 3 spd / 3 spd C4 automatic. If you're keeping original drivetrain EITHER early or later dual drilled 200/170 should work.

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early 60/61 cars had less robust rear eng/tranny mount that may need adapting but unless swapping 250 or Toploader linkage , the firewall / tunnel should not need forming afaik .
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the '61
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hav efun
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DrewbieTheNewbie said:
That is one interesting thing I have been in contact with a guy that has one and it is a C4OE 6015 A and it has 5 freeze plugs which as far as I can tell from reading forums is a 200 with a 4 main crank. I’m not really in a rush go crazy with modifications and power right now so I’m not worried about it the bottom end and it’s cheap. Although I have heard that the 1/4 inch oil pump drive can be problematic and am wondering if I should be worried about that. My plan is to take it slow while experimenting and learning. I want to try different exhaust and intake setups to see how much I can help it breathe which may mean some head work further down the line. The head casting number is C3DE 6090 DX10
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Does this 200 run and does it have the carb and distributor? Provide more info.
 
I don't know what part of the country you live in. Some areas seem to be a used 200 desert. Others are awash with them. If you think you can get a slightly newer 200 than that '64 you might be glad you did later when you start trying to do some minor mods. You'll have a much better foundation to start with. As mentioned, the later 60s blocks have more distributor and transmission options, and more main bearings. As you get into the 70s 200s, the heads are gradually improved with a bigger carb inlet and "log", and bigger valves and hardened seats. But it's hard to wait for the perfect engine when you've got one right there that would be better than what you have now...
 
As TrickSix stated you could use the 200 available now and it would be better as it will help overcome slightly the 2-speed auto. Provided the 200 runs and comes with the correct carb otherwise you will be searching for a carb to work with the LOM. Then you would have a decent driver while you search for a later 200 and the trans you want and rebuild/update that package before installation. Also as stated previously you can do useful mods like: complete 2" exhaust; upgrade to alternator; dual res master cylinder; suspension/brakes rebuild. And as far as I know a Pertronix module will work in the LOM dist while you run the older 200. Also I would expect that 200 to be very reasonably priced due to low demand.
 
DrewbieTheNewbie said:
So I’m getting the gist that swapping in a 64 200 isn’t quite as simple as I thought unless the Holley 1904 and distributor from the 144 would work?
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Oh, it should be simple enough. If that C4DE-A 200 doesn't come with a suitable carb and distributor they could be found easily enough. There's not much demand for those parts. A large portion of the activity around here is people getting rid of the old Load-A-Matic distributors and Spark Control Valve carburetors and 4 main bearing single bellhouse pattern 1/4" pump/distributor drive blocks to replace them with the newer versions. There isn't a lot of "speed" equipment available for these engines, it's nice to take advantage of the factory upgrades when you can. Many of us have experienced a sort of mission creep, where the upgrades that we thought would make us happy just don't cut it anymore, and another round begins. It would be unfortunate if you wound up ditching the old 200 not long after installation for something more amendable to modification. But it's your car and your project, maybe just going from the 144 to the 200 will be enough tinkering to keep you happy for years. I'm just trying to give you some things to think about before you start spending money and doing work.
 
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