1100 1bbl tuning tips, please

[Anonymous]

Well, I've finally put together various parts from about 3 differant carbs to try and get this thing to run halfway decent until I do an engine swap (plan to use differant carb then). The lid flange is warped, so I had to use 2 gaskets to get it to seal. I lowered the float the same amount as the thickness of the gasket so it's at the correct level when assembled.

The car seems to be too rich- I'm getting soot on the ground during startup/warmup, but the manual choke is fully open (not hooked up) and I have adjusted the mixture screw for smoothest idle when the engine is warm. I have to feather the throttle for a few minutes when it's cold to keep the engine running, so I'm thinking the accelerator pump is too rich and needs adjusting, although I've already set it to factory specs. How do I lean out the "squirt"? Shorten the pump rod, or lengthen it? I don't think my landlady likes the black spots on the driveway :roll:

Thanks,
Sedanman

 

[trashline]

um try using a vacuum gauge on the vacuum advance for the dist. rev the engine and try to get the highest vacuum as possible. set up the idle screw near the choke it is ment to give more gas when warming up. your acc. pump is for when you stomp on the carb it pushes more gas into the engine to compensate for the lack of gas. if your car doesnt stall around corners or hard acceration then the float level should be good. why cant you upgrade the carb now? im in the process of doing a h/w 32/36 swap it should be a nice improvement. these carbs are junk ive rebuilt and adjusted mine at least every month for the past year and a half bc it is junk. your saying the airhorn is bent? the top of the carb? try to straighten it out. there are special passages that could be loosing vacuum and such bc if these . just bc no gas is leaking out doesnt mean air isnt. air is lighter then unleaded gas.

 

[Anonymous]

This has a manual choke- no separate fast idle screw on this carb. I've already set the timing as you suggested. I noticed today that it was idling way too rich when it was cold, so either the idle mixture is off (thought I adjusted it already) or something is out of whack internally. Plugs are sooty around base, although tips are clean.

Yes, these 1100's are POS andI don't want to waste a lot of time on this carb, but the engine I'm going to buy has the larger intake hole and bolt pattern so it will take a differant carb. I don't want to deal with a carb swap right now- I need to concentrate in this damn leaking rear axle seals I have not driven this car for two summers now and have spent thousands of dollars on it- I want to drive it! Another carb swap and fabricating special linkage and all that will take more time- rod run season is coming to a close!