1100 Carb Problem

[Anonymous]

Hello everybody,

I recently installed an 1100 carb onto a 1964 170 engine and by doing so replaced the 1908 Holley. The Falcon chassis/body is a 1961 and the linkage comes through the firewall, behind the valve cover and over to the exhaust manifold to the carb.

After first installing it in the car, I started the engine and it ran about 2000 rpm. At first, I tried adjusting the idle screw until I noticed the tip wasn't even making contact with the idle cam any more. When I pull the linkage a little in the closed-throttle direction, the engine seems to reduce rpm.

In the Performance Handbook, How-To Section, Number 1-a method of adjusting the throttle linkage is mentioned in the opposite regard, that of allowing the throttle valve to open fully. My problem seems to be that the linkage, will not let the throttle close fully.

Has anyone had a similar experience or any helpful ideas? I am not sure how to take the clip off of the adjustment rod to adjust the linkage, (the section located under the master cylinder.) Mine looks rusted and brittle and will surely require a good soaking with WD-40 to loosen it up.

Thanks in advance for all your help. I have really appreciated the help you guys have provided and I am grateful for this forum!!

Jeff G.
Adairsville, GA

 

[saltwaterfalcon1960]

The linkage can be a nightmare on early falcons with automatic.When I did my 200 swap I got the linkage parts from a 64 mixed up with my 60 linkage parts.Still trying to get it working correctly.

 

[Anonymous]

First thing to do is remove breather and disconnect linkage from carb. then check to see if the throttle plate is closing and that you arn't hung up on the fast idle cam. With somebody to crank it try operateing throttle at the carb with linkage off and see how she responds. if that works then start altering geometry to get linkage on at closed throttle position. after that you can see about wot adjustment. I suggest takeing all threaded rods and soaking them in solvent, wire brushing clean , then reinstalling . Often 10 minutes of prep will save hours of head ache.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks. Here's what I did. I disconnected the linkage and actually found that the throttle linkage wasn't the problem at all.

BUT, The car will not run without the automatic choke on or at least 90% choked. Even when fully warmed at 60F for 15 minutes, the car will not run without the choke and continues to race up the rpms as it warms. If I open up the choke with my finger, somewhere around 80% choke, the engine sputters and will die, if I don't give it the choke back. I have tied the choke open, and the car barely cranks, runs a little, backfires and dies. When I try to keep it alive, I give it substantial amount of throttle, it speeds up slightly for a second, then tries to die again. The fast idle cam screw as well as the idle screw itself, are not even making contact with the cam or stop. This all has me puzzled. It must be something really obvious to someone else, but not me.

Help

 

[Anonymous]

i am having choke issues as well.

did you open up the choke on the back of the carb?

thats my next step to see if the spring is there and if it is OK...but your sounds like a idle fast cam issue

mine is the opposite issue...never gets the fast idle

there is a screw that points almost down on the driverside of the carb in th eback...use a wrench and losen it so the cam key that hits it can release one or notch

try that...tnhat what I have learned

 

[Anonymous]

Okay next step--look down the carb with the choke open and pump the gas and see if the accelerater pump is pumping gas, if yes you probally have a clogged jet. If no, you have likely no gas in the carb.
Another very strong possibility is a major vacum leak, especially as this is a new install. Make sure you don't have any unplugged vac. ports and that you have vav lines going to their proper places.

 

[Anonymous]

Yeah, the pump is spraying gasoline into the venturi. I thought it could be a vacuum leak too. I have replaced the PVC valve, and put new vacuum port caps on the log taps this week hoping to keep everything tight.

 

[Anonymous]

A good and fairly safe way to check for Vac leaks is WD40--(not nearly as volitle as starting fluid) at idle, spray around carb base and intake plugs etc. motor will change tone when you hit a leak.also make sure you arn't useing intake vac for your SCV. dizzy advance.

 

[JackFish]

Did you rebuild the carb? What's the history?
Could be something like needle/float issues. Hope you don't have water in the gas as well.

 

[Anonymous]

Hello guys,

I just tried the WD-40 for vacuum leaks. Man...I was hoping this would find something, but instead, I cleaned and preserved the engine pretty well

As for history, I did rebuild the carb recently. I bought it from a guy on this forum. He told me that it had around 20K original miles but had been off the car for a while (a "67 Mustang 200). I bought it and did a rebuild kit and installed it. Seems to work well when fully choked. The speed of the engine goes from idle and progressively speeds until the engine is running about 2500 rpm in less than 2 minutes. If the choke is taken off even after 15 minutes or more of warming, the engine will die if it has less than 80% choke.

Jeff G.

 

[Anonymous]

Another thing I forgot was that I have put a Fram in-line fuel filter between the pump and carb.

The 1908 was working good before I put this one on. I again took off the 1100, and re-installed the 1908 and it worked fine. Again....putting on the 1100, it ran like it had the first time (see above posts about choke). So I now believe it must have something to do with the 1100.

Jeff G.

I appreciate your help, guys!!!!

 

[mustang6]

Sounds to me like maybe one of the little checkballs inside the carb was not re-installed during the rebuild.

 

[Anonymous]

Update (Sunday morning...early :idea: )

I took the carb apart this morning to be sure. I checked:

1) Jet, was clean, no clogs evident
2) Check balls, all three present and loose in shafts, accl. rod discharge rod placed correctly over third check ball
3) Reassembled and no vacuum leaks evident with WD-40. Also checked vacuum lines, themselves, no leaks evident.
4) Re-checked shop manual diagram for any possible missing parts or errors in assembly, none found.
5) Float and needle free movement and re-checked float level
6) Reset idle mixture needle from closed to 1 1/2 out.
6) Ran engine again, accl. pump spraying fuel into carb throat, float bowling filling and maintaining level after taking off top of carb.

Problems that remain:

1) Engine runs well, but slowly increases idle speed as it warms. **I took off the linkage from the throttle valve and found that the throttle valve is closed while looking down the venturi throat, but the idle screw and fast idle screw can be tightened down completely to fully compressing their springs and not make contact with the either of their stops????** This seems to be the primary problem. I have wiggled, jiggled, etc. the throttle valve shaft and can't get the idle screws to ever touch their stop or cam, thus making either slow or fast idle adjustments impossible. I don't know if it is binding somewhere inside or not???

I can email a picture if that would help.



Jeff G.[/img]

 

[JackFish]

Perhaps the screws were mixed up in a past life. I accidentally swapped a couple once. And if it's speeding up, maybe the low idle screw is worn out and is loosening itself. My fast idle screw used to like wiggling out and falling on the head. :x

 

[mustang6]

Pictures might help since it seems you have done a good job going back through everything. Something is definitely out of whack if neither of the screws touches their stops.

 

[Anonymous]

I don't have a URL or webpage and don't quite know how to go about posting pics without those.

Any help on this?

Jeff

 

[Anonymous]

Good News :!: :!: Sort Of.....

I found that the throttle linkage running underneath the front of the carb (from the accl. pump to the dashpot) was binding on a heater hose clamp screw from the heated spacer. I was able to spin the clamp upside down and was then able to get the carb linkages functioning normally.

I tuned the idle by vacuum, adjusted the auto choke, and adjusted the mixture. The engine runs GREAT when at idle, but NOW the problem seems to be that when I give it the throttle, the engine spits, sputters, and after feathering it a little will achieve higher rpms temporarily. It then returns to the smoothest idle I have ever seen in this car. Any more help would be appreciated. :!: : :
Jeff G.

 

[Anonymous]

For those of you following this thread...I found the solution to the final problem (that of the stalling on giving it throttle). The problem was fixed when I identified the fuel pump as starving the carb. This thing was sooo loose on the block too! I noticed it when it began leaking some oil from the seal. Now things are working great after I replaced it with a new fuel pump.

Jeff G.