1100 seeping fuel...it's annoying now

blueroo

Well-known member
Ok, my 1100 carb is seeping fuel from the gasket that seals the upper and lower bodies. It appears the gasket is actually absorbing fuel and in turn it's seeping out onto the carb body.

Additionally, the inlet line keeps leaking. My carb rebuild kit didn't come with a gasket for it, I've tried teflon tape, I've tried viton o-rings, nothing works.

Does anyone know how to seal that. It's extremely annoying and making it a pain to tune. It's a reman and I've rebuilt it once already.
 
Do you have the adaptor for the fuel inlet? I think the inlet is a regular thread (thats why it uses a washer to seal) and the fuel filters are a tapperd pipe thread (thats why you could use tape). The pipe thread in the regular hole may never seal. As far as the leakage are things flat and smooth?
 
I like a pipe seal paste instead of teflon tape. I have not had good luck on getting fuel to seal with teflon tape. But if you pipe threads into regular threads you may not seal. I would look for a an adapter that converts the pipe threads to the straight threads.

Is the float level correct?
The joint between the top and the bowl should be immersed.
Doug
 
Wait, what exactly do you mean by an adapter? The way my fuel line is set up, there's a a nut or whatever that threads into the inlet port of the carb. Then the line itself has another nut and a flared end. You push the flared end into this larger nut and then thread the nut on the line into the nut on the carb.

The float level is as close as to spec as I could get it. The one thing that really bothers me adjustment wise is the vent rod on the front is incorrect. The notch on the rod doesn't even come close to lining up where it should and I've had the carb apart once to get it as close to correct as possible.


Does anyone know where I can get an original 1100? This reman I have has never worked properly so I'd like to get an unmolested original and rebuild that properly.
 
Sounds like yours has the adaptor. Does yours have the metal or plastic rod? I have a few carbs with plugs in the vent rod hole. I guess many people thought the thing was not worth the trouble plus the plastic one seem to break eaasily at this age. I repaird mine and it ran fine last year, this year when I was getting the worked on motor started for the first time I broke the rod again and lost the spring. Its been running without the rod or a plug for the last couple of months with no issues. I keep meaning to put a plug in there but forget. In my junk pile I have a carb with the larger venturi I have been thinking about putting on to see if it makes any differnce but so far thinking about it is as far as I have got.

What do you mean got the float as close to spec? With the floats that I had and the needles that came in my Napa Echlin kit I had to grind some off one of the needles to get it right otherwise the arm was so bent I think it was not pushing even on the needle.

The 66 manual lists the 1.1" venturi for the 170's and a 62F jet for an AT 64F manual 65F for emissions manual.
 
TJ,
I have the metal rod on mine. For the float being as close tp spec as possible, I have the plastic (or plastic like) float which iirc needs to be set where the bottom of the float is 11/32" from the bottom of the upper body in a resting position. I bent the tangs so it was a close to 11/32" as I could see, it may be off a hair or two on either direction though.
 
Bort62

I used 5 min. epoxy on a cross threaded fuel line at the fuel pump of my 61 chevy L6. It work fine except I had to renew it every time I took it apart. It saved me from having to buy a new fuel pump.

69.5mav
 
Is the float level correct?
The joint between the top and the bowl should be immersed.

I think he meant to say the joint should *not* be immersed. If it is, the float setting is too high and you will never be able to stop the fuel from wicking through the gasket.
 
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