12v source hook-up for 2004R

[Anonymous]

Does the trans only need a 12v source key on? I know I can't run the fuel injection if I tap onto a 12v source accessory. It has to be HOT when key is on and cranking...

CT

 

[Anonymous]

ooops. I thought I was in the drivetrain dept. :roll:

 

[xctasy]

It's Ok.

Use the power supply that goes to or from the the oil pressure sender wire.

Some other hometowns my now more. This is for the lock-up clutch or vehicle speed sensor, yeah? Pre 84 trans have a separate swithch for the clutch, later ones run off the Memcal/Delco computer.

 

[Anonymous]

You got it...The Professor...

It's for the overdrive...to engage the solenoid for the torque converter to kick into O.D.

CT

 

[xctasy]

Cool Ch**y brother. Be sure and tell me how it all goes now!

Make sure your TV valve cable is perfect too. A200-R4 is an ace pice of gear if you do it right. In a light car like yours, it is a winner.

I considered bolting one up to my old 3.3 GM in-line Vauxhall engine aslate as 1994.

I did get this blurb from a 1988 August Hot Rod magazine (Page 67, but article is from 66 to 69, if you can track it down). It applies to the 700 R4, not the 200 R4. You can be fairly sure there is no difference in the systems, though the part numbers may be different, or may have changed some thru the years.

In order to maximise gas mileage potential, top speed, and overall transmission longevity on street aplications, the lock-up converter feauture should be retained, at least in high gear. On TH700-R4s built prior to 1984, the lock-up was controlled by the transmissions valve body. With these early units, no electrical mods are required (however, the early units do not have the durability of the later models). Starting in 1984, GM began using the main computer on some models to control the converter lock-up.By 1986, lock-up on virtually all applications was computer controlled. In order to lock up late-model 700 transmission converters on noncomputer retrofit applications, you will need to buy the switches and connectors and wire the system according to the B&M guidelines.

There is a lovely picture of the TV cable set up, and I used this to do my Holley cable design on my 84 Falco. But there was also a picture of the wire-up for R4's which don't have the earlier lock-up on transmission valve body.The following should be noted:-


Items to shop for:
*Procure the stock TORQUE CONVERTOR CLUTCH CONNECTOR and HARNESS, if you haven't done already.
*Buy a B&M HIGH GEAR SWITCH.
*You must wire the lock-up feature into the EXISTING STOP LAMP wires for safety, so that brake application unlocks theconvertor. To do this, you need #25524846 (modern switch that bolts onto for 65 El Camnios, anyway. Yours will most likely be the same). This is a no longer a two pin number, but a four prong number with two in the normal spot, and two out the side.

Instructions:
In regards to the torque converter clutch connector itself, it said
A, the existing purple wire, is linked to the B&M High gear switch.
B, the existing blue wire, is taped off.
the C wire remains blank,
use the existing brown wire to D,

The existing purple wire goes from the B&M controller (a trans switch) to the lower back prong of the four pin #25524846. The B&M piece is just a two pin device.

At the four pin #25524846, the back prong A is purple wired, the prong B is wired to the 12v ignition "hot" terminal, and the existing stop lamp wired go in and out to the top prongs.

There ya go. Hope you can cross check all this.

 

[Anonymous]

The shifts are jolting. It has a performance shift kit but dang! When the gears change it jolts. I have to take it in to a pro. The pressures might be too high.

I'll have that shop check out the TV cable set-up and adjust where necessary.

CT

 

[Anonymous]

CT-

try TCI's 376600 kit; it contains the right connectors and an adjustable vacuum microswitch, so you can have brake pedal and cruise rpm lockup. You can hook up the L/U solenoid wire to just about any switched source.

 

[Anonymous]

Hola amigo.

I ended up using a switched source right off the fuse box.

Gracias for the information. I'll look into that part # because I'll be taking it to a trans shop soon. I want them to check my geometry on the TV bracket/cable and such. But I have also been wanting to put in a switch for the break to disengage the OD.

But lately, I've been xperiencin' clunks--2nd gear in its crescendo into 3rd(D)... If I let off the gas during the crescendo--instead of staying in 2nd, it will clunk into 3rd. I'm going to have them check my line pressure also.

Late hometown.

CT