1962 Comet engine rebuild

[Anonymous]

Just picked up a comet for my daughter and I will have to rebuild the engine. Any suggestions on getting some more go out of the 170 and still keeping stock (collectible). It has a two speed automatic. I have a 144 in my Falcon and it can barely get out of its own way!

 

[Asa]

any old ford with an I6 is by no means collectible, I6 junkies are the only ones that really care about them, anyone else is prolly just gonna swap it for a V8
the closest you'd be able to get is an engine that has the correct casting codes for that year/make

me, i'd suggest going with a 200, and getting at least a C4
the 200 will look like the 170 (except for the differing amount of freeze plugs), but it'll have more cubes, and you'll be able to upgrade to a DSII setup

 

[gtm1086]

Hello. I have to agree with Evan on upgrading to a 200. You will be happier with it in the long run. Keep the old 170 tucked away someplace if you need it for numbers matching at a later date. Now with that said. Go get this book.
http://cquesttechnologies.com/fspp/prod ... SP-200-FSH

Then check out everything else Mike has to offer over at Ford Six Parts.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Dkerr:

And Keep it straight! Make sure you have at least 15 degrees of initial advance.

The '62 170s used a Holley #1909 side bowl one barrel. You might want to search out a Model 1904 Holley that appears identical to the #1909, but was used on full size Ford Cars with 215 and 223 sixes from 1955 to '62 and had a CFM rating of 170. Your 170 engines carb is rated at 150 CFM. This carb is compatible with the Load-A-Matic distributor as it has a Spark Control Valve.

By upgrading the point ignition to a Petronix Ignitor you will smooth out the engine and not have to worry about setting points again. This will allow you to open the plug gap for a little more power and economy.

The 1960 - '63 170 heads have the smallest valves (1.52" I & 1.26" X) and intake tract of any 170s. You could move up to a '65 and later 170 heads whick have larger intake (1.64") and exhaust valves (1.38") with no change to the chamber volume.

Either head can be improved upon with a three angle valve job, back cutting the intake valves and milling to maintain at least stock compression ratio.

'62 was the last year to use the smaller, 1 3/4" outlet, exhaust manifolds with the flat gasket. By moving up to a '63 or later manifold you will gain a 2" outlet and a donut gasket connection to the head pipe for a better seal and a 2" system downstream.

All of the above are very stock appearing but will combine to give a noticeable increase in Uumph. It's unlikely that one person in 10,000 will spot the differences. The two speed auto and the additional weight will be limiting factors.

What do you think?

Adios, David

 

[Anonymous]

Thanx for all the great advice-I will shop around around a little for a 200 ci replacement, however, I am leaning towards rebuilding what I have.

The head/ manifold swaps sound good-are these eBay items? What is the best way to shop for these?

Are you serious re: the 15 degrees initial timing-is this where I should be running my 144 as well (currently have it advanced to about 10 degree)?

Dave