1966 Mustang 200 Mild Rebuild

[chad]

sorry, startin to mix the 2 projects up, but the 1 w/the pic (not specifically on the shaft but I saw out of the corner) looks need "thrown out'. Too scored'n damaged. The R.shaft is just a few bucks (even 4 the probable lowest dollar member me)...
My couple 3 suggestions wuz only if bringing back 1 in fair to good condition.
W/a shaft that bad I'd B checkin out the inside (brass bushings) of those rockers. I think they can B pressed out/re-bushed. bubs may have a 'tolerance' range to ck with?

OK, re-looked this thread. If U send pic we can assess. The P. rods need replaced as bent. Ck the ends of the adjusters as they contacted the 'cups', for damage (goring). Follow the other's thread 2C how it's done, put up pic here when concerned or uncertain. Compressed air & a cana break clean helps. Stuff goes back where it came from (number, place on bench so as 2 not B disturbed, other method), watch out for dropin a lifter dwn in the block (when removing P.rod spin in finger/thumb to release off its bottom). Trace whole oil path so as to clean its whole length. When done do full oil change as there is now solvent, metal fines AND gunk in there. I think bubba recommended a cana engine flush (not radiator) for 100 mi of that new oil (or whatever the directions on the can) and another change (these changes inc the filter & whatever else done on 'full change').

 

[drag-200stang]

The stock rockers are not bushed ,the only way is if someone installed bushing in them before.

 

[Troys66]

Sorry I have been out of touch for a couple weeks. Had a (Non-Covid-19) family medical issue that required my time. It will be a few more weeks before I get back to this project.

 

[Troys66]

I have a few additional questions while I have some time to think about it.

1) On replacing the valve springs and seals: I would need to purchase a tool to remove the spring. I will be doing this with the head on the engine. Any suggestions on a spring compressor? I have one for motorcycle but I don’t think it will work on an engine this size. I found the following on Amazon.
a. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-36050-Keep ... ve&sr=1-21
b. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool ... ve&sr=1-12
c. Or Other suggestions????

2) I looked at several auto supply houses (NAPA, RockAuto, Summit Racing) for the 302 exhaust spring and there are several available with different specifications. Can someone provide a known manufacture and part number? Or should I just stick with stock?

3) The Handbook, Vintage Inlines and Classic Inlines websites all caution about using the 1.6 Rocker Arm assembly with stock springs and seam to recommend 302 Exhaust spring and in some cases dual springs. Is the just CYA or is this a real concern? If it is a real concern can someone point me to what to look for maybe with pictures or instructions for dummies?

I’m sure I will have many more questions as I have more time to think thru all of this.

Thanks for all your help and support.

 

[bubba22349]

1. A I haven't used a tool like that, normally when using the below type spring compressor you won't need it, however i can see how it might be hand with a stuck keeper. On a stuck keeper I sometimes take an old socket put it on the retainer and give it a good rap to loosen them up.

1. B I have a spring compressor that looks like that one is made by Lisle used it for many years on many different engines without any trouble.

2. The hand bock should have that info i haven't looked at it quite awhile as my copy get packed away someplace. However the 302's had a very long life and many different heads were used on them. I would think the exhaust springs that were used on the earlyier engines from about 1974 to 1978 when they started to use an exhaust valve rotator. Hopefully another site member has the right answer for you. The other Spring somtimes used were the HiPo 289's these were made from 1963 to 1968.

3. Yes I will agree with what they are recommending the stock valve springs are adequate only for the stock engines and when they are operated within their recommend use. Once you start upgrading some of the parts for some better performance then other parts may also need to be changed along with them this is one of those cases. As an example I was working on my 1977 Maverick 250 Stock low mile engine started doing a few Mod's to head to improve head flow and was seeing some good improvement. I also shimmed the stock springs yet these springs turned out to be still the a limiting factor at speeds much over 67 MPH.